An Autumn Fairy Tale – 2017 Sisters' 11-Day Trip to Czech Republic and Austria by Public Transport + Self-Drive (Lots of Photos and Practical Tips)
This travelogue was written earlier, but due to viewing issues, it is being re-edited and re-uploaded now.
Falling in love with a city could be because of a song, a movie, a novel, a beautiful picture, or a deeply moving moment – Prague is exactly such a city with multi-faceted charm. I've read Milan Kundera's *The Unbearable Lightness of Being* several times but always felt a bit confused, until I watched the movie *The Unbearable Lightness of Being*, which finally made me deeply understand the lightness and heaviness of life. Czech Jewish writer Franz Kafka's *The Metamorphosis* and *A Country Doctor* radiate a heavy melancholy. Composer Smetana's symphonic poem *Má vlast – Vltava* always stirs my heart... So many elements attracted me, and Prague had long been on my must-visit list. Especially when a direct flight from Chengdu to Prague opened two years ago, I felt my wish was about to come true. Yet Prague is a city with such a profound cultural heritage that I feared my own shallow knowledge would greatly diminish the travel experience. So in the past year, I deliberately sought out relevant books and materials to read, to deepen my understanding. Finally, in the autumn of 2017, I designed a Prague trip for myself.
Prague is not a big city; the downtown area can be explored in three to four days. The Czech Republic borders Austria to the southeast, and the Austrian Lake District boasts breathtaking natural scenery. The fairy-tale landscape of Hallstatt, the most beautiful town, once haunted my dreams...
Nietzsche said: ‘When I want to express music with one word, I find Vienna; but when I want to express mystery with one word, I only think of Prague.’ So, in the end, I finalized an eleven-day classic Czech-Austria itinerary: Prague – Český Krumlov (CK) – Salzburg – St. Wolfgang – Hallstatt – Vienna – Prague.
I've been back from this trip for over a month now. Whenever I sort through pictures or sit in front of the computer typing, it feels as if I am once again immersed in this medieval fairy tale – stepping on the mottled cobblestone streets lit by Prague's lights, strolling through the flower-filled town of St. Wolfgang, intoxicated by the dreamlike beauty of Hallstatt...
Charles Bridge just before dawn
Sunshine over golden Prague
The city of a thousand spires, Prague
St. Vitus Cathedral
St. Vitus Cathedral
Strahov Monastery Library
Fairy-tale castle – Český Krumlov
Early morning in St. Wolfgang
White Horse Inn, St. Wolfgang
Night falls over Hallstatt
Fairyland entrance – Hallstatt
The picturesque Gosau
Melk Abbey
St. Stephen's Cathedral
St. Stephen's Cathedral
Rose garden at Schönbrunn Palace
The following content is practical travel tips; fellow travelers may find it useful, skip if you don't need it.
Once the destination is confirmed, a series of bookings follows:
1. Flight booking: Two months in advance, I booked a direct flight from Chengdu to Prague via the Sichuan Airlines official website. The aircraft was an Airbus A330, and the round-trip ticket cost 6,190 yuan. Seat diagram was available on the site. To ensure a good rest and energy, I reserved front-row seats (Row 9) online for both outward and return flights, costing 100 yuan per seat per leg.
2. Hotel booking: All done through Booking.com because of its flexibility; most bookings can be canceled or modified for free in advance. This trip involved ten nights in five different hotels, each a successful choice that greatly facilitated the journey, and all were rated 4 stars or above in recommendations.
3. Visa preparation: For Schengen visas, key requirements include a bank balance over 30,000 yuan with six months of account statements, itinerary in Chinese and English, flight and hotel bookings, overseas travel insurance, and an employment certificate in Chinese and English issued by the employer. Property deeds and car ownership certificates are supplementary. As it turned out, the visa officer didn't even look at the supplementary documents we brought. Since we were flying in and out of Prague and spent five nights each in the Czech Republic and Austria, we applied for a Czech visa. The visa center in Chengdu is simply located on the third floor of China CITIC Bank on Section 2 of Renmin South Road. The visa was processed quickly: I submitted the documents on a Friday and received the approval notice the following Tuesday.
4. Transportation: This trip used multiple transport modes: public transport in Prague and Vienna, a Student Agency bus from Prague to CK, a shuttle bus from CK to Salzburg, and a rental car in the Austrian Lake District – since its lakes and mountains are best enjoyed with a car, stopping wherever you like. I chose Zuzuche (ZZC) and picked up the car at Salzburg Airport, returning it at Vienna Airport. There were many car models to choose from, and the vehicle was in excellent condition. For Vienna to Prague, I took an ÖBB train (because of the train scene in the movie *Before Sunrise*).
5. Language: Czech is the official language in the Czech Republic, and German in Austria, but most people speak English, so English is generally fine. Also, you can use the ‘Youdao Translator’ app for multi-language translation.
Currency: The Czech Republic uses Czech Koruna (CZK), a minor currency not exchangeable at domestic banks in China. Austria uses the Euro (EUR), which can be exchanged at domestic banks. In Prague, many ATMs marked with UnionPay allow convenient withdrawal of local currency. We carried one Huaxia Bank card and one Bank of Chengdu card – both offered one fee-free overseas withdrawal. Credit cards are widely accepted; we only withdrew cash twice.
Wifi: I rented a ‘Roaming Man’ portable WiFi from Ctrip, picked up and returned at the airport; it worked well. I mainly used it in the hotel.
8. Photography gear: Sony a7II with 24-70mm lens, iPhone 7 Plus.
9. Useful websites for this trip (flight bookings, car rental, intercity transport, airport tax refunds, Vienna Musikverein bookings, etc.) were very helpful. Due to anti-advertising restrictions in the travelogue, please send me a private message if you need them.
10. Handy mobile apps:
a. Google Maps – for navigation
b. Tantu Offline Maps – supplement to Google Maps, used when network is poor
c. XE Currency – real-time exchange rate calculator, very handy for converting to the desired currency amount
d. TripAdvisor – for finding shops and restaurants
e. Dianping – also for finding shops and restaurants, with flavors more oriented to Chinese tastes
f. Moji Weather – to decide what to wear based on weather
g. Sunrise Times – check local sunrise and sunset times, useful for photography enthusiasts to plan around the light
h. Chain View Travel – download or stream introductions and explanations of tourist attractions, convenient and practical
i. Youdao Translator – practical translation app covering multiple languages; Czech is the official language in the Czech Republic and German in Austria. Unfamiliar words can be scanned or photographed for online translation.
Per person cost: 19,000 yuan, of which accommodation was 6,000, transportation 8,500 (including flights 6,400, car rental 468/day × 3 days = 1,404, plus 210 for supplementary full insurance), entrance fees 1,600 (including Musikverein ticket 365), meals 1,600, and visa, insurance, WiFi rental and other miscellaneous expenses 1,300.
Especially useful tips:
1. When booking hotels, prioritize convenient transportation. Focus on location and reviews. Since a visa requires a hotel booking in advance, you can initially book a reasonably satisfactory hotel – most Booking.com reservations allow free cancellation within a certain period. After obtaining the visa, you can keep refreshing to find your ideal hotel. Hallstatt, being a famous most-beautiful town, has extremely tight hotel availability. I initially booked in Obertraun on the opposite side of the lake, but later after constant refreshing, I spotted a vacancy at a historic hotel in Hallstatt with an excellent location. I booked a castle room in the non-main building without an elevator. Later, through email confirmations with the hotel, I successfully switched the booking to a lake-view room in the main building with an elevator.
2. About ÖBB train ticket booking: On the official website, a one-way ticket from Vienna to Prague was 64 euros (China Railway resells for 74 euros). Keep an eye out for frequent special offers. I bought a special fare ticket for that train at 24 euros, but it was non-changeable and non-refundable. Once your itinerary is set, you can choose special-fare tickets. Trains are very empty, so you don't need to reserve a seat in advance.
3. Regarding car rental: This time I chose Europecar via ZZC; it's the largest car rental company in Europe, and the likelihood of upgrades is high. I originally planned to pick up at Salzburg Central Station and return in downtown Vienna, but after comparison, I found that picking up at Salzburg Airport and returning at Vienna Airport had a much wider selection of cars, better prices, and, more importantly, longer business hours, giving us more freedom with pickup and return times. Also, in Europe, choosing a manual transmission car is much cheaper. Since I've rarely driven manual recently, I had to stick with the familiar automatic. Purchasing supplementary full insurance is extremely necessary, and I'll explain why in the main text.
4. About European tax refunds: I chose credit card refund at departure from Prague Airport. Before checking in, put items needing a tax refund on top of your suitcase for customs inspection (I was randomly selected for an open-case check). After getting the customs stamp, drop the refund forms into the airport's tax-refund mailbox. There are two companies: Global Blue and the orange-colored Premier. A very important tip: remember to take a photo of each tax refund form before mailing. After returning home, you can track the refund status using the form number to avoid the refund loss some travelers have reported.
5. About the Musikverein (Golden Hall): Tickets can be booked online on the Musikverein's official website; you can switch the language to English, view the seat map, and confirm your seat. Prices start from 50 euros, but the payment process wasn't smooth. So I booked a 50-euro ticket (the cheapest) through a Chinese platform, roughly the same price as the official site, but you couldn't see the seat number in advance. Once in Vienna, exchange your booking confirmation for the actual performance ticket on the third floor of the office opposite the Vienna State Opera. Also, after the show starts, if there are better empty seats, you can quietly move to them without disturbing others.
With the basics covered, let's now follow my footsteps and start the journey.
Day 1: Chengdu – Prague, Sichuan Airlines 3U8295, 13:35
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 192
Transport: Airport transfer car in Prague
Day 2: Prague Old Town – Old Town Square, Týn Church, Astronomical Clock, St. Nicholas Church, Wenceslas Square, Dancing House, Vyšehrad
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 192
Transport: Walking
Day 3: Prague Castle District – St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, Golden Lane, Strahov Monastery Library, Petřín Lookout Tower
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 192
Transport: Walking
Day 4: Prague – Český Krumlov (CK town), Český Krumlov town
Accommodation: Penzion Gardena, USD 94
Transport: Prague public transport, Student Agency bus
Day 5: Český Krumlov (CK) – Salzburg (Austria) – St. Gilgen – St. Wolfgang
Accommodation: Seehaus Familie Leifer, EUR 92
Transport: Walking, shuttle bus, self-drive
Day 6: St. Wolfgang – Ischl – Hallstatt
Accommodation: Heritage Hotel Hallstatt, EUR 236
Transport: Self-drive
Day 7: Hallstatt – Gosau – Melk Abbey – Vienna
Accommodation: Austria Trend Hotel Savoyen Vienna, EUR 134
Transport: Self-drive
Day 8: Vienna – Belvedere Palace, Hofburg Palace, St. Stephen's Cathedral, Café Central, Vienna State Opera
Accommodation: Austria Trend Hotel Savoyen Vienna, EUR 134
Transport: Walking, public transport
Day 9: Schönbrunn Palace, Hofburg Palace, Musikverein
Accommodation: Austria Trend Hotel Savoyen Vienna, EUR 134
Transport: Walking, public transport
Day 10: Vienna – Graben Street – Prague
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 212
Transport: Public transport, ÖBB train
Day 11: Prague Old Town – Old Town Square – Chengdu, Sichuan Airlines 3U8296, 19:50
Transport: Prague airport transfer car
Day 1: September 5 – Chengdu Shuangliu Airport to Prague Airport, 3U8295 at 13:35; Charles Bridge Palace Hotel
I, a work enthusiast, went to the office in the morning to tidy up my work. At 11:30, I arrived at Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport Terminal 1. Since I had already reserved seats on the Sichuan Airlines website, I had plenty of time. First, I picked up the overseas WiFi router at the departure level, then had a lunch at the airport – a local snack that tasted quite salty. A small complaint: dining options in Terminal 1 are very limited. As a Chengdu native, I must say that judging Chengdu's culinary standard by the airport snack bar would seriously downgrade the city's food reputation.
The flight from Chengdu to Prague took ten and a half hours. Sichuan Airlines' in-flight meals were okay, with offerings like chili sauce. The entertainment system worked fine, with a movie library of dozens of fairly recent cinema releases. Ten hours passed quickly: two meals, two movies, a bit of reading and a stroll, and soon the plane began its descent.
Prague is in the UTC+1 time zone, and in September uses daylight saving time, so the time difference with Beijing is six hours. At around 5:30 p.m., we landed punctually at Prague Airport. No entry card was needed; we queued normally, passed immigration, collected our bags and had them checked, and withdrew Czech koruna at the airport. In about half an hour, we exited the airport (as always, I prepare all immigration documents while still on the plane, use the toilet, then stride off the plane quickly to avoid queuing with large tour groups – saves a lot of time).
Prague (PRAGUE) Ruzyně International Airport – called PRAHA in Czech
An interesting luggage carousel; the left side had the ATM for cash withdrawal. At that moment, few people were collecting bags – the crowd was still behind.
We had pre-booked an airport pickup service at Prague Airport. Right in the arrival hall, we saw a staff member in company uniform holding a sign with my name. The young driver politely helped us with our luggage to the parking area, loaded them, and opened the car door. We had booked a private car; it was a spacious Mercedes-Benz van. The driver even asked us whether the air conditioning was okay, whether to play music, if we wanted bottled water… His service awareness was superb. The airport bus to the city requires a transfer to the metro, but considering the long flight and the evening approaching, we opted for the private car. The price was 590 CZK per person, booked online and paid after pickup. On the booking page, you could change the language to Chinese. There were several airport transfer options: shuttle bus to the city, shared ride, or private car to the hotel, each at a different price.
Our pickup car: a spacious Mercedes-Benz van
Prague is the capital and largest city of the Czech Republic. Thanks to its surrender without resistance in both world wars, the city's architecture was not bombed. Prague thus preserves buildings and monuments from various historical periods and styles, from Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neoclassical to Art Nouveau. Numerous opera houses, concert halls, museums, art galleries, libraries, and cinemas foster a rich cultural atmosphere, making it the first entire city designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.
After about a half-hour drive, we arrived at our hotel, the Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, located right next to Charles Bridge.
The hotel entrance was not very conspicuous
But the hotel had an excellent location, as the following days proved.
A corner of the hotel lobby
The hotel had a distinct medieval style
The room was spacious; we had booked a river-view room, so opening the window revealed the Vltava River.
Though the bed was not large, it was quite comfortable.
Coincidentally, at this very hotel, I ran into an old acquaintance – a Chengdu friend I'd met a few years ago and got along with well; she was staying on the floor above us. She had left Chengdu for Shanghai a few years back, and she and her friends had driven all the way from Poland – a wonderful twist of fate! This is a magical city!
After freshening up, I couldn't wait to plunge into Prague's dusk. A three-minute walk took us to Charles Bridge.
Charles Bridge is a landmark of Prague, spanning the Vltava River, which the Czech people call their mother river. The bridge is 520 meters long and 10 meters wide, with 16 arches, built entirely of stone without a single nail or piece of wood over 650 years ago. With its long history and architectural artistry, Charles Bridge is one of Prague's most famous monuments. It was built under the order of Czech King Charles IV, hence the name. The bridge's two ends connect Prague Castle and the Old Town.
In the evening, Charles Bridge was bustling with tourists and street performers – the Czech Republic is an artistic country, and street artists are everywhere.
It's said that anyone visiting Prague will walk across Charles Bridge nine times. Tonight was my first acquaintance.
Night had fallen, yet Charles Bridge remained lively. We strolled back to the hotel. Prague – let me discover your charms more closely tomorrow.
Day 2: September 6
Prague Old Town: Old Town Square, Týn Church, Astronomical Clock, St. Nicholas Church, Wenceslas Square, Dancing House, Vyšehrad
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 192
Transport: Walking
Empty streets, with a tram rolling slowly in the distance.
To witness Prague's first rays of sunlight, I got up early and went to Charles Bridge. At that hour, the bridge was exceptionally quiet, lamplight shining on the cobblestones. It reminded me of the story that the young Franz Kafka would often wander on the bridge counting the stones; at age three he began strolling here, and by night he used the streetlamps to count the stones…
There were quite a few visitors like me, waiting for sunrise.
Charles Bridge, the oldest and longest in Europe, is adorned with 30 statues of saints, mostly based on biblical and folk tales. These are masterpieces of Bohemian Baroque art from the 17th–18th centuries, dubbed by Europeans as ‘an open-air gallery of Baroque sculpture’. The originals are now preserved in a museum, and most on the bridge are replicas.
Each statue, with their varied postures and lifelike expressions, silently guards the bridge, adding a sense of mystery.
The sun rose, casting its light over golden Prague.
The sky gradually brightened
Soon, joggers, wedding-photo couples, and tourists began to appear in greater numbers.
Lovers hang padlocks here to pray for enduring love.
Back at the hotel, breakfast was served. The Charles Bridge Palace Hotel offered a Western-style buffet, with a good variety that changed daily.
Today's plan was to explore the Old Town.
In Prague, walking is the best way to sightsee, allowing you to slowly feel the city's heartbeat and pulse.
After breakfast, along the cobblestone streets, we reached Old Town Square, also known as Prague Square.
Some shops along the street were already opening.
Within half an hour, we were at Old Town Square, with its iconic Jan Hus Monument – but no ‘wishing fountain’ as in Jolin's song ‘Prague Square’.
Jan Hus was a forerunner of the religious reform movement. In the early 15th century, the patriot Hus led a reform movement against the Pope and the German Catholic Church. In 1415, Hus was burned at the stake as a heretic by order of the Pope and the German king. Many of his ideas were later accepted by Protestantism. Hus Square was also the site of the 1948 communist coup and the 1989 Velvet Revolution.
Standing in the center of the square, the view spans a complete architectural textbook: Baroque, Rococo, Romanesque, Gothic, and more coexist.
Around Hus Square, many tourists were having breakfast at open-air restaurants. The Astronomical Clock and Týn Church are both in this area.
The Astronomical Clock is located on the Old Town Hall tower, currently under renovation, so climbing to the top wasn't allowed. This clock is an exquisite chime, built in 1410. Above the clock dial, two small windows open every hour on the hour, and figures of the Twelve Apostles appear in sequence, while Death tolls a bell and a rooster flaps its wings and crows.
At ten o'clock, the windows opened.
Tourists gathered under the Town Hall tower waiting for the Astronomical Clock to chime.
Týn Church, north of the Astronomical Clock, is the most eye-catching building on Old Town Square. It's known for its Gothic twin towers topped with gilded finials, reaching about 80 meters. Because its shape resembles a fairy-tale devil's castle, it's nicknamed the ‘Devil's Church’. It is also the oldest building on the square. The oldest pipe organ in Prague is housed inside. Entry is free, but photography inside is prohibited.
Leaving Týn Church, right opposite is St. Nicholas Church, a Baroque-style church with a cream-colored facade and bronze dome, very striking.
On the ceiling are frescoes depicting stories from the Old Testament.
In the evening, classical music concerts are held inside the church.
Leaving St. Nicholas Church, we walked half an hour to reach the Powder Tower.
The Powder Tower is a Gothic city gate in Prague's Old Town, built in 1475. It is the only one of Prague's 13 original city gates still standing. It once served as a gunpowder store, hence the name. Climbing the tower costs 100 CZK.
The entrance at the bottom of the Powder Tower is not easy to spot.
At the top, there are narrow passageways offering distant views.
The view from here is excellent; Týn Church and St. Nicholas Church are fully visible.
Coming down from the Powder Tower, the streets were already crowded with tourists.
Below the tower were many vintage sightseeing cars waiting for tourists.
From the Powder Tower, we continued along Národní třída. This is a commercial street lined with high-end brands.
The blend of modern and classical was completely seamless.
Following Národní třída, we reached the Rudolfinum on the banks of the Vltava.
In Prague, a city rich in art and romance, there are many concert halls and museums. This one gained special fame from a movie by talented Chinese director Xu Jinglei, *Somewhere Only We Know*. The meeting spot for the lead characters was right beside this sculpture in front of the Rudolfinum. It's also home to the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra.
Rudolfinum
This is the sculpture where they agreed to meet.
A statue of Antonín Dvořák stands on the lawn in front of the Rudolfinum. Dvořák is the most renowned Czech composer; his Symphony No. 9 is a masterpiece still widely performed today.
Concerts are frequently held inside the Rudolfinum.
Opposite the concert hall is Mánes Bridge, very classical, with tram tracks running down its center.
By now it was midday, and we headed to this Italian restaurant located right on the Vltava River.
The restaurant was on a boat, allowing us to dine while enjoying beautiful views of the Vltava.
The restaurant had three levels, spread across the boat's decks and cabin.
Once again, Charles Bridge came into view.
A pizza – the portion was huge. We ordered two pizzas and left at least half uneaten.
When in the Czech Republic, beer is a must. The total for two came to 465 CZK. I found the food a bit on the salty side, but the dining atmosphere was first-class, and all the waiters were handsome Czech men.
After lunch, we walked back to the hotel for a coffee, enjoying the Vltava River scenery and a short rest.
After a brief break, we walked about 40 minutes to Wenceslas Square. Despite its name, it's actually a commercial boulevard. This busy square has witnessed many Czech protests and demonstrations, recording numerous historical events. The famous Prague Spring of 1968 erupted here. In the film adaptation of *The Unbearable Lightness of Being*, *The Unbearable Lightness of Being*, passionate Czech youths surround Soviet tanks and sing John Lennon's ‘Hey Jude’, reflecting dissatisfaction with society at the time. The youthful, passionate, rebellious, and nationalist emotions deeply moved the audience.
At the top of the square stands an equestrian statue in armor of the patron saint of Bohemia, Duke Wenceslas.
Wenceslas Square and its surroundings are filled with shops.
At one end of the square is the National Museum, currently under renovation.
We then strolled toward the Dancing House, whose curvaceous shape resembles a couple dancing, hence the name. It now houses the offices of a Dutch insurance company.
Passing by again at night, the building looked even more atmospheric.
Leaving the Dancing House, we headed to Vyšehrad citadel.
Vyšehrad sits on a hill on the east bank of the Vltava, the birthplace of Prague. The most distinguished families of the nation are laid to rest here, including two musical giants – Dvořák and Smetana. It's the finest viewpoint for a panoramic view of Prague.
This is a park
From Vyšehrad, the view is superb; the entire city of Prague spreads out before you.
A feeling of being above the clouds
In such a romantic place, all beautiful things are witnessed.
One moment I was admiring the Vltava River painted red by the sunset, and the next minute, a downpour hit.
In Prague, autumn rain causes a sudden temperature drop. Cold and hungry, we returned to the hotel, where thankfully our own hot pot comforted our Chengdu stomachs, instantly reviving us.
Day 3: September 7
Prague Castle District: St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, Golden Lane, Strahov Monastery Library, Petřín Lookout Tower
Accommodation: Charles Bridge Palace Hotel, USD 192
Transport: Walking
After breakfast, we crossed Charles Bridge once more. The eighth statue on the right side is that of St. John of Nepomuk, the bridge's guardian. Legend says this bishop refused to reveal the queen's confessions to the king, and the enraged king had him thrown from Charles Bridge into the Vltava. Above where he drowned, five brilliant stars miraculously appeared in the sky. Hence, his statue has five stars around its head.
The golden cross set into the railing marks the spot where St. John was thrown from the bridge.
We also touched the statue – it's said that if you make a sincere wish here, it will come true.
A sisterly photo together
Crossing Charles Bridge, we reached the castle district on the opposite bank.
Upon entering the castle district, a left turn and a five-minute walk brought us to the Lennon Wall. Originally an ordinary wall, since the 1980s, people began covering it with John Lennon-inspired graffiti and lyrics from Beatles songs. Now it's a place where many free-spirited youths or activists express their longing for freedom, democracy, and peace. John Lennon himself never visited the Czech Republic, yet he genuinely influenced a generation of Czechs' worldview.
The castle district involves many slopes.
Following the ups and downs of stone steps, about half an hour later, we arrived at Prague Castle.
Prague Castle, perched on a hill above the Vltava, is the largest ancient castle in the world. It was the seat of Bohemian royalty and now serves as the official residence of the Czech president. With a long history, it blends architectural styles from different periods. Among Europe's many ancient castles, those in the Czech Republic are particularly well preserved because the country's surrender in World War II spared it severe destruction. War is truly the enemy of human civilization.
You need to pass through security to enter this area; the checkpoint is quite visible – just look for the line.
Upon entering the main gate of Prague Castle, there is a platform with an excellent view of the entire castle complex.
From the platform into the courtyard, the first thing that catches your eye is the magnificent Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral – the largest and most important church in the Czech Republic, with over 1,000 years of history. It was where kings were crowned.
On one side of the courtyard, the place marked ‘i’ sells admission tickets. We bought the B ticket for 250 CZK, covering the four main sites: St. Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, St. George's Basilica, and Golden Lane.
St. Vitus Cathedral is the centerpiece of Prague Castle.
The towering ribbed vaults and stunning rose window create a solemn and majestic atmosphere; time seemed to stand still.
Gothic cathedrals have almost no walls, replaced by immense stained-glass windows. Beyond decoration, they serve a theological purpose: letting in sunlight, theologians believed a bright, sun-filled church is closer to heaven.
The stained-glass windows depict scenes from the New Testament; even the illiterate could understand Christian faith through the images.
Some windows feature works by renowned Czech painter Alfons Mucha.
Inside the cathedral is a woodcut depicting the construction of Charles Bridge.
Exiting St. Vitus Cathedral, a pink building comes into view – St. George's Basilica.
The Old Royal Palace's second-floor terrace also offers a broad view, and you can even see Týn Church across the river in the Old Town.
Golden Lane, a narrow alley behind St. George's Basilica, is a medieval-style lane. Once home to artisans and craftsmen, it later earned its name from alchemists who supposedly sought to produce gold here. The houses are tiny, each with its own distinctive color.
One room displays medieval warrior armor.
Golden Lane is especially famous because No. 22 was once the home of the renowned Czech writer Franz Kafka. Here, he quietly completed works like ‘A Country Doctor’, which went unrecognized at the time.
The room is tiny, less than 10 square meters, now turned into a small bookstore selling Kafka's works.
Kafka, an insurance clerk by day, was passionate about literature and writing from childhood. He was engaged three times but called off the weddings each time. His works often carry deep allegorical meaning, reflecting his introverted and pessimistic character.
After Golden Lane, in about three hours, we finished exploring Prague Castle. We had a quick lunch at this convenience eatery inside the castle complex; there were hardly any other dining options inside.
After leaving the castle district, we walked an hour to reach Strahov Monastery, one of the world's oldest monasteries, quiet and serene. Importantly, it houses what's called the world's most beautiful library. Admission: 120 CZK + photo permit 50 CZK.
At the entrance, you can get a Chinese-language introduction. Straight ahead is the Philosophical Library; the other is the Theological Library.
The Theological Library is filled with Bibles and biblical stories in multiple languages.
The Philosophical Library hall is acclaimed as the most beautiful library in the world, with breathtaking ceiling frescoes.
From Strahov Monastery, we walked slowly along Hunger Wall for less than an hour to reach Petřín Hill. This is also Petřín Park, where many locals relax and stroll. We sat on the terrace below the Petřín Lookout Tower, had coffee, and planned to go up the tower around sunset to see the city panorama.
A leisure garden for locals
Let me twirl in this oxygen bar
Petřín Lookout Tower, a 60-meter-tall copy of the Eiffel Tower, can be reached by elevator or outdoor stairs. From our hotel room window, we could see this tower across the river. We chose the elevator to the top. Admission: 150 CZK; elevator: 60 CZK.
After the sun set, the wind on top was strong and wild.
We came only to quietly savor this beautiful moment – the setting sun
Lights began to twinkle, and at that moment, Prague was mysterious and enchanting.
For safety, much of the viewing platform is enclosed by glass panels that cannot be opened. A few good photo spots without glass require a rather tall tripod. My small regret was that my tripod wasn't high enough; I had to hold it up with my arm to capture the night scene.
Night fell, and stepping on the cobblestones, we walked for over an hour from the castle district back to the hotel, crossing Charles Bridge once again.
Day 4: September 8
Prague – Český Krumlov (CK town), Český Krumlov town
Accommodation: Penzion Gardena, USD 94
Transport: Prague public transport, Student Agency bus
From our room, we could see the bell tower near Charles Bridge through the window. It was another bright day.
After breakfast and checkout, we prepared to take the bus to CK.
I had already booked a 10 a.m. Student Agency bus ticket, so there was plenty of time.
From the hotel, walking about 7 minutes along the Vltava riverbank brought us to the Staroměstská metro station.
The infamous cobblestone streets known to murder wheeled luggage
Staroměstská metro station
This is a large station with an elevator, but to save time, we carried our luggage up the stairs at some points.
Call me a strong woman
Prague's public transport is very extensive, with stops all over, none far apart, and with accurate timetables. For city travel, you only need trams and the metro to reach any attraction easily and quickly. Tickets can be bought at newsstands selling cigarettes and newspapers, convenience stores, or ticket machines in metro stations.
We bought a 30-minute ticket for 24 CZK. You must validate it by stamping the time in the machine upon entering; while no one checks immediately, if caught with an unstamped ticket, it's considered fare evasion. Note: Never evade the fare; the fine per person is at least 800 CZK.
Bus ticket stub: 30-minute ticket, 24 CZK
Staroměstská metro station – very artistic
From Staroměstská, we took the green line one stop to Můstek, then transferred to the yellow line for three stops to Anděl. The metro ride took about 20 minutes.
Anděl is a big intercity bus terminal where coaches to CK, České Budějovice, etc., depart. Our Student Agency yellow bus ticket cost 7 euros per person, great value for money. You can choose your seat online; just show the verification code to the driver when boarding. The booking website can be switched to English. Departure stop: Prague - Na Knížecí; arrival: Český Krumlov - AN. Follow the prompts to select seats and pay online. After booking, you'll receive a confirmation email with the time and seat number, which you can print or save.
This is the famous yellow bus.
Platform 1, Na Knížecí is the departure point name.
The bus ride from Prague to CK is three hours. Online reviews mention WiFi and a toilet, but our bus had no toilet!! Still, it was very spacious and clean, not crowded, with an entertainment system and each passenger received a headset – that bit was true.
CK was the last stop; there were two intermediate stops.
The bus arrived in CK punctually at 1 p.m. After getting off, like many other passengers, I made a beeline for the restroom!
From the bus station to CK town, the walk is a few hundred meters. I'd heard about a notoriously steep slope that makes dragging luggage a real struggle, so I purposely booked a hotel that reviews said was close to the bus station with a good location. In the end, we climbed only one slope, and within 10 minutes we saw our hotel. My physical strength prepared for a major challenge went unused before we reached our destination.
The slope infamous for defeating luggage-carrying tourists.
At the top of the slope, there's a viewing platform with a nice panorama.
The Gardena hotel felt more like a guesthouse than a hotel. A quick check-in, and the handsome owner helped carry our luggage to the second-floor room. Honestly, the guesthouse's stairs were more of a test than that slope! The friendly owner also gave us a hand-drawn map, marking the hotel's location and the town's main sights.
Gardena has a large courtyard where many cars can park. Most accommodations in CK are guesthouses, each with its own distinct style.
The Gardena is right on the roadside.
The staircase was distinctive, but carrying suitcases up those steep stairs was indeed tough.
The room was long and done in a rustic style.
After a short rest, we set out to explore the town.
Český Krumlov, often abbreviated as CK, is currently one of Europe's most beautiful small towns. Krumlov Castle was first built in the 13th century and is the largest castle in Bohemia outside of Prague Castle. For hundreds of years, it stayed far from modern civilization, untouched by the Industrial Revolution and war; thus, the town's streets and buildings have preserved their medieval look, designated a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site.
Krumlov Castle – as if entering a fairy-tale world
Crossing a small road, we entered the town. First, we saw St. Vitus Church. Climbing the stairs, we found a fairly plain and unspectacular entrance. Though the church is small, it's filled with paintings; one could call it an art gallery. We went in like locals to pray, maintaining silence and reverence. The church also has a huge pipe organ.
Another rose window
Ten paintings of Jesus' suffering line the interior walls, vividly depicting the Passion, with exquisite expressions.
Following the lane, we reached the town center, Svornosti Square – a small square paved with cobblestones in medieval style.
The square's fountain is surrounded by a Marian plague column.
It was Saturday, so the square was lively, full of tourists and locals. The colorful houses all had flowers decorating their windows.
There was a Shanghai Restaurant in the middle of the square – nice to see Chinese characters after several days.
We chose Krumlovská Fontána, a restaurant with outdoor seating, for lunch.
Generous portions; total cost 334 CZK.
After lunch, we followed the town's winding paths toward the Castle Tower.
Every brick, every blade of grass seemed to whisper stories of the past.
The town is not big; about half an hour later, we arrived below the landmark Castle Tower.
Beneath the tower is a regional museum displaying items from the royal household's daily life. It's small but well-arranged, re-creating medieval European aristocratic life. Admission: 50 CZK.
Built in the 13th century, the Castle Tower features Gothic and Renaissance styles and is a town landmark, with painted exterior walls and a green spire that is unforgettable. Combined ticket with museum: 130 CZK; tower alone: 100 CZK. A narrow spiral staircase winds up, offering a panoramic view of CK.
You can climb the Castle Tower; other tourists are visible at the top.
The narrow spiral staircase inside the tower.
At the top, the whole of CK unfolds. The Vltava River splits the town into two halves: the castle on the hill and the old town on the other side. This river is the soul of the town, shallow but clear and fast-flowing, and it continues all the way to Prague.
Looking down, the town is composed of houses in Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and other styles, but all with the same orange-red roofs, creating an extraordinarily beautiful scene.
Descending from the tower, we walked the sunny town, where pleasant music could be heard everywhere.
Street artists in town
Many tourists and locals were sunbathing by the river with coffee.
The Vltava's strong current is perfect for rafting.
They excitedly shouted ‘Hello’ to us.
The entire castle is itself a stunning picture, brilliantly colorful and magnificent.
This medieval town luckily escaped the ravages of war and the forced modernization of technological progress.
Latrán street is the town's main thoroughfare, lined with shops selling handicrafts and food. Worth a browse, it's full of character.
In the setting sun, the castle turned golden.
Getting lost in town is hard because the Castle Tower is always a reliable landmark. Walking in CK, if you look up, you'll see the tower wherever you are.
As tourists gradually dispersed, the town regained its tranquility.
Tonight, there was a vintage car gathering.
The drivers of the classic cars looked about as vintage as the vehicles themselves.
We didn't linger too long and headed to the Krčma v Šatlavské (the Cave Restaurant) for dinner.
I'd booked dinner at the Cave Restaurant via email a month in advance, for 8 p.m. This famous restaurant was converted from a prison, retaining the vaulted ceilings, stone walls, huge firewood, and an oven – very distinctive.
Even at 8 p.m., it was fully booked.
We sat in the inner room; every table was reserved.
A unique menu, but no pictures of the dishes. However, ordering was simple: dark beer and pork knuckle are their signature.
The Czech-style roast pork knuckle was crispy outside, tender and chewy inside. An enormous knuckle, plus dark beer, cost just about 100 yuan – truly affordable and tasty, so it's no wonder it's packed.
After a hearty meal, we staggered out and took a stroll around town for at least half an hour. We happened upon a film crew shooting a documentary here – perhaps this moment truly captures the town's most atmospheric essence.
Walking under the starlight on the quiet medieval cobblestones, I wished time would freeze right there.
Day 5: September 9
Český Krumlov (CK) – Salzburg (Austria) – St. Gilgen – St. Wolfgang
Accommodation: Seehaus Familie Leifer, EUR 92
Transport: Walking, shuttle bus, self-drive
Today we would leave CK in the Czech Republic for the Salzburg region in Austria. I had booked a shuttle bus service a month earlier for 9:45 a.m. In the Czech Republic and Austria, shuttle buses are the most convenient and fastest mode of transport besides driving yourself. The booking website allowed me to choose the exact pickup point – our guesthouse in CK – for 1,900 CZK, with 400 CZK paid online in advance and the rest upon boarding. A confirmation email arrived after booking.
We had breakfast in the small dining area on the ground floor. It wasn't too elaborate, but there were some choices. After last night's heavy meat consumption, my breakfast was fairly vegetarian.
The weather was beautiful, so we walked back into town. At this hour, the town was tourist-free, everything just waking up. A poem by Gu Cheng came to mind: ‘Morning, sunlight on the grass. We stand, supporting our own door. The door is low, but the sun is bright. The grass is setting its seeds, the wind is shaking its leaves. We stand, not speaking, and it's all perfectly lovely.’
A fresh early morning in CK
Today is Saturday; some campers had stayed overnight here.
Colorful guesthouses
Peaceful morning square
Each house a different color, yet all harmonize.
The beauty of the town also lies in the climbing plants and flowers adorning balconies and courtyard walls.
Intoxicated by the fragrance of these blossoms
This street where the Cave Restaurant is located was also quiet.
Last night's bustling Cave Restaurant now waited in silence.
Back at the guesthouse, at 9:35 a.m., the shuttle bus arrived right on time. It was a Volkswagen van with the company's logo. Including us two, there were six passengers. I spotted three Koreans and one Westerner – all young people.
The driver politely helped with our luggage, and we were directed to the two front passenger seats with great views. We set off punctually.
The road in the Czech Republic included some winding mountain sections, but soon we entered Austria without any ceremony – just like crossing from one county to another in Chengdu. In Austria, we mostly traveled on the highway. The driver set the cruise control at 140 km/h; the highway wasn't very busy. We made a brief stop at a highway rest area, then continued.
After a three-hour ride, around 1 p.m., we reached Salzburg Central Station, where four passengers got off. Our destination was the airport. Originally, my shuttle bus booking was to end at Salzburg Central Station, but because the car rental selection was better, I changed it to the airport. I emailed the shuttle company to update the drop-off location, and the fare increased from 1,500 CZK to 1,900 CZK.
A ride of less than 20 minutes brought us right to the Salzburg Airport car rental center entrance. I didn't experience any problem finding it at all. The entrance was clearly marked, and all major rental companies shared one hall.
At midday, the rental hall was nearly empty.
I chose Europcar via ZZC; it's Europe's largest rental company. The ZZC website was fully in Chinese, making the rental process simple. You can modify or cancel the booking for free up until the pickup. I opted for prepayment with supplementary full insurance. I added supplementary full insurance because the regular insurance has a 900-euro deductible for damage, while supplementary full insurance covers everything. As it turned out, this was extremely useful.
Europcar counter
At the counter, I presented the printed rental voucher, my Chinese driver's license, and an International Driving Permit (IDP translation obtained free from a domestic rental aggregator). The agent placed an 850 EUR pre-authorization on my credit card, patiently explaining it was just a hold and the amount would automatically return to my account if there were no traffic fines or such. He explained some notes, asked if I wanted to add further insurance, which I declined. The agent handed over all the pre-prepared rental documents in a special pouch and mentioned it was a diesel car, saying the fuel would be more economical. The pickup was incredibly smooth. The parking lot was conveniently located right in the underground garage below the rental hall, and based on the agent's description of the area, we easily found our car. My booking on the rental platform was for a Mercedes A-Class at a daily rate of 468 yuan, but Europcar upgraded me for free to a brand-new E220D – and one with only 500 kilometers on the clock. An instant feeling of great luck!
International Driving Permit translation
Taking photos of the entire car is a good idea because if unexplained damage occurs, you have evidence.
The total mileage so far was just 514 km. The default is to pick up full and return full.
With a flutter of excitement, we hit the road.
I must admit, it being a new car, I drove very cautiously and attentively.
Salzburg is in central Austria, the birthplace of great composer Mozart and conductor Karajan, and the filming location for *The Sound of Music*. Having learned that parking in the city is extremely difficult and attractions are crowded, we chose to drive out of Salzburg directly to the lakeside town of St. Gilgen.
St. Gilgen is 30 kilometers from downtown Salzburg, a half-hour drive. This is where Mozart's mother was from, nestled between mountains and water. It has no major monuments and isn't big; walking the whole town takes less than an hour. Locals come here to relax, so it's a great place to experience their leisurely life.
In the small central square, there's a bronze statue of Mozart.
As usual, the town's center is marked by a church.
Distinctive residences show how the owners apply their love of beauty to every detail.
Every windowsill is a scenic picture.
From the flowers at the entrance, you can imagine how much the owner loves life.
We chose a restaurant with a lovely setting for lunch: fish dish 24 EUR. From today, we started using euros. Overall, Austrian prices are higher than those in the Czech Republic.
After lunch, we strolled along the lake. It was a weekend, and many families were relaxing here.
This was a diving platform right by the lake.
Though the afternoon temperature was only about 20 degrees, swimming was still quite chilly. The locals sure are hardy.
Ducks swimming freely.
After sitting in the car for a few hours, we stretched on the terrace, enjoying the sunshine.
We spent two hours in St. Gilgen, then drove to our accommodation for the night, St. Wolfgang.
St. Wolfgang is about 20 kilometers from St. Gilgen, normally a drive under half an hour, but we took a wrong turn at an intersection and ended up circling the lakes for an extra half hour, arriving at about 5 p.m.
St. Wolfgang is a beautiful town in central Austria, a famous lake resort area. During the Middle Ages, the Habsburg royalty loved to vacation and hunt here; over 100 years ago, Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) of Austria also came here for summer retreats. The region comprises 12 large and small lakes strung together like scattered pearls, making it the loveliest lake area in the Austrian Alps and the warmest part of the Salzkammergut.
I decided to spend a night in St. Wolfgang based on a recommendation from a classmate who had just returned from a self-drive trip in Central and Eastern Europe during the summer. She highly recommended it, saying it surpasses Hallstatt as the most beautiful lake town. So I modified my plan, switching from two nights in Hallstatt to one night in St. Wolfgang and one night in Hallstatt.
The hostess of Seehaus Familie Leifer didn't live on site, so after arriving, I called her, and she drove over quickly to handle check-in. She gave us a hand-drawn map of the town and recommended a place for breakfast (the apartment didn't provide it). She also showed us a notice board in the apartment building's ground floor hallway with the Schafberg train timetable.
Seehaus Familie Leifer
Downstairs, there's a spacious activity area and a courtyard. Our room was the one with a balcony on the third floor, left side.
Garden downstairs, with swings and family-friendly facilities; the hotel also has its own parking.
The ground floor: living room, study, plus a large shared dining room and kitchen.
Wall with the Schafberg train timetable
Rooms are on the upper floors; ours was this lake-view room on the third floor.
The room was warmly decorated and very homey.
There were cabinets with pots, pans, and dishes – you could cook for yourself. St. Wolfgang is a holiday destination for Austrians, so families often come here and self-cater.
Our room's balcony faced directly onto Lake Wolfgangsee.
Relaxing on the balcony for a while
All along the way, I was captivated by the town's houses. After dropping off the luggage and resting a moment, we headed toward the town center. Our guesthouse was right next to the Schafberg train station, a five-minute walk from the center.
Walking through town felt like wandering among a sea of flowers; almost every half-timbered house had windowsills bursting with blossoms.
As dusk approached, many windows began to light up, and with the illumination, the array of plants glowed brilliantly, a feast for the eyes.
Flowers whose names you may or may not know adorned others' balconies but also filled your dreams.
The famous White Horse Inn (Weisses Rössl) gained international fame from the operetta *The White Horse Inn on Lake Wolfgang*. This light romantic comedy, set in the hotel, ends with three couples happily united, spreading the romantic reputation of Lake Wolfgang worldwide. Empress Sisi also once stayed here.
The red facade adjacent to the green ivy-covered wall was strikingly vivid.
Town signposts were distinctive.
The town isn't large; it takes just half an hour to walk from end to end. When you reach this ‘end of town’ sign, that's it.
Just sitting quietly, you can feel this sense of beauty.
Contented swans in the lake; tourists often feed them bread, so they gather when people approach the shore.
Let me stay a little longer with the swans.
For dinner, we chose a restaurant rated in the top five on TripAdvisor.
Spaghetti – an enormous portion.
Actually, it tasted very good. During the meal, the owner came by to ask if everything was okay. We said it was excellent, but when we paid, we had only eaten half. The owner looked puzzled; we had to explain ‘delicious, but just too much!’ and couldn't help but admire the neighboring diners who cleaned their plates – they can really eat!
Day 6: September 10
St. Wolfgang – Ischl – Hallstatt
Accommodation: Heritage Hotel Hallstatt, EUR 236
Transport: Self-drive, 60 km
In the early hours before dawn, I got up hoping to catch a sunrise over Lake Wolfgangsee, but the morning fog was thick, the air humid, and the sky dark; no sunrise to be seen.
A grandpa was just setting out to fish in the middle of the lake. Fishing in Lake Wolfgangsee is a very popular leisure activity for locals.
Early morning in St. Wolfgang
After breakfast, the fog remained thick. Good weather on a journey is a matter of luck. After some thought, we decided to take the earliest Schafberg train at 9:20, hoping the wind would disperse the fog at the summit.
Schafberg lies north of St. Wolfgang and was a filming location for *The Sound of Music*. A cogwheel train climbs to the 1,783-meter summit; on a clear day, you can enjoy the famous panorama of the seven lakes around St. Wolfgang.
The red steam cogwheel train – the same one Maria and the children took in the film *The Sound of Music* for their outing. Round-trip: 35 EUR.
At 1,783 meters, the summit offers a 360-degree unobstructed view of the lake district.
The train was about to depart.
Ascending the mountain, sitting on the left side offers better views.
Halfway up, the fog had thickened, though the lake district was still faintly visible.
Arriving at the summit after a 50-minute train ride, at 1,783 meters – thick fog, mist mixing with moisture, soon wetting our clothes and hair.
There's an observation platform from which you normally see the seven lakes, but now all we could see was fog – nothing but a vast whiteness.
I recall a photography teacher once said that weather unsuitable for travel might be suitable for photography. Although the fog was heavy and the temperature low, hiding the lake views, the dense fog felt almost ethereal, giving a glimpse of a different Schafberg.
It was a pity not to see the seven-lake panorama today, but travel is like that; many uncontrollable and uncertain factors exist, teaching us to constantly adjust our mindset and accept things as they come. That's the true value and meaning of travel.
Back in town, the fog had lifted a little, and again we walked among the storybook houses.
Short streets, candy-box-like wooden houses, tiny artisan shops that haven't changed in years – seemingly ordinary everywhere, yet every turn brings a surprise.
Boats ply Lake Wolfgangsee; in summer, a lake cruise is a fine choice.
Inside St. Wolfgang Church is a famous carved wooden altarpiece depicting the coronation of the Virgin. It was Sunday, so the pews were packed, each seat with a German-language prayer book. Everyone read solemnly. Out of respect for the reverent moment, I took no photos.
The church's arcaded walkway outside
After descending Schafberg, the combined rain and fog quickly sapped our energy and made us very hungry.
Dianping recommended this town's top-ranked restaurant, Franz-Josef (seems like Josef is a common name in Austria).
The ground floor was full, so we were seated in an upstairs private room – just the two of us, a private banquet.
Time for some creative ordering...
Soon, our food arrived – a beef soup starter, a combination of pumpkin and carrot for added vitamins
