Three-Month Europe Tour Part 8: 'Imperial Tricolor: Prague, a Never-Ending Fairytale of a Hundred Spires'
Continued from previous: Three-Month Europe Tour Part 7: 'Imperial Tricolor: Vienna, a Symphony of Imperial Afterglow and Immortal Art'
After soaking in Vienna's imperial grandeur and artistic pinnacle, my next stop took me straight to a city even more magical and surreal—Prague. Here, there is no legend of Princess Sisi, but there are Kafka's labyrinth and the eternal rhythm of the Astronomical Clock, waiting for me to explore.
Waiting for the train to Prague in the hall of Vienna Central Station
Vienna Central Station
After over three hours, I arrived at Prague Central Station. Right off the train, I was amazed by the historical station building, with its magnificent dome and Art Nouveau architecture.
These glass structures are the subway entrances at the station.
The Central Station building
Hotel Caesar Prague is located in Prague's New Town, just a 5-minute walk to the Dancing House, 14 minutes to Old Town Square, and trams right outside the door.
The room was spacious; I'd be staying here for six days.
After checking in, I first headed to Havel's Market. Walking through the neighborhood I spotted interesting architecture.
Havel's Market dates back to 1232, with nearly 800 years of history. Originally a produce market for nearby monasteries and residents, it's a wonderful place to soak up the local flavor of Prague.
The Estates Theatre, formerly known as Tyl Theatre or Count's Theatre, opened in 1783. In 1787, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart himself conducted the Prague premieres of his operas 'The Marriage of Figaro' and 'Don Giovanni' here. Today, it is part of the Czech National Theatre.
The 'Commander of the Knights' sculpture by Anna Chromy
The Czech Republic is a great beer nation. Beer is not only delicious but also the cheapest of all drinks, even cheaper than mineral water or cola—unbelievable.
On the way back to the hotel
On the way to Old Town Square, through Prague's streets.
The Marian Column: a Baroque memorial column topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary, erected in 1650. The one we see today is a replica re-erected on the original site in 2020.
The Goltz-Kinsky Palace, a Rococo building now part of the National Gallery. The famous writer Kafka attended secondary school here.
The exquisite sgraffito decoration on the facade of the House at the Minute is not made of black and white stone but rather a Renaissance technique called 'sgraffito.' The process involves applying two layers of plaster—first a dark layer (usually black), then a light layer (white)—and then carving into the still-damp plaster to selectively scrape away the white, revealing the black beneath.
The crowd in the square waiting for the Astronomical Clock to strike.
The Astronomical Clock is mounted on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall. Built in 1410, it is one of the oldest operating astronomical clocks in the world.
Structure: It is divided into two main parts, upper and lower.
Upper part - Astronomical dial: Built in 1410. It shows not only time (Old Czech, Central European, and Babylonian time) but also the positions of the sun and moon on the ecliptic, lunar phases, and astronomical dates. Its ingenious design embodies medieval human wisdom.
Lower part - Calendar dial: The one currently on display is a replica created in 1865 by Josef Mánes, a student of Czech Art Nouveau painter Alphonse Mucha (the original has been moved to a museum for preservation). It features murals symbolizing the twelve months and signs of the zodiac.
Every hour, two small blue windows above the clock face open, and the figures of the twelve apostles slowly parade in turn. At the same time, four statues representing medieval social vices—vanity, greed, death, and desire—begin to move. The most striking is the skeleton Death pulling a bell, symbolizing the passage of time. The whole performance lasts about 45 seconds, ending with the crowing of a golden rooster at the top.
The Jan Hus Monument stands in the center of the square. Erected in 1915, it commemorates the famous Czech religious reformer Jan Hus, who was burned at the stake for opposing the corruption of the Roman Church.
The Church of St. Nicholas, sharing its name with the one in the Castle District, is a stunning Baroque church renowned for its elegant facade, grand dome, and exquisite frescoes and chandeliers inside.
After exploring Old Town Square, I crossed the Lesser Town bridge tower of Charles Bridge to enter the Lesser Town (Malá Strana). Nestled at the foot of the castle on the west side of Charles Bridge, this area is filled with winding cobblestone lanes, elegant palaces, gardens, and tranquil courtyards.
The Lennon Wall, in the Grand Square of the Prague Monastery, was originally an ordinary wall belonging to the Knights Hospitaller. Starting in the 1980s, people began covering it with John Lennon-inspired graffiti and snippets of Beatles lyrics. In 1988, the wall became a focal point for Czech anger against the Husák regime, as young people scrawled slogans of dissent. This eventually led to a mass confrontation between students and police near Charles Bridge; the students involved were ironically dubbed 'Lennonists.' Today, the Lennon Wall has become a symbolic icon of youthful resistance.
The Baroque Holy Trinity Column, also known as the Plague Column, was built in 1715.
The vast fresco 'The Life of St. Nicholas,' painted by Austrian artist Johann Lucas Kracker, covers the interior of the central dome, which soars 79 meters high. The fresco is magnificent, with lifelike figures, and uses clever perspective to create a breathtaking vision of heaven opening and saints ascending. The stunning gilded wood-carved altar is topped by Karel Škréta's large painting 'St. Nicholas Blessing Sailors on the Mediterranean Sea.'
The interior is filled with lifelike marble sculptures, golden stucco decorations, and exquisite reliefs. Every corner is rich in detail, an absolute feast for the eyes.
The church houses a grand historical organ. It is said that the musical prodigy Mozart once improvised here during his visit to Prague.
Enjoying a wonderful moment here.
After resting, I headed back to Old Town Square, passing back through the Lesser Town bridge tower to climb the Old Town Hall tower.
Taking the elevator up the Old Town Hall tower, I enjoyed a 360-degree panoramic view of the entire Old Town Square and Prague's iconic sea of red roofs. From here, landmarks like the Church of Our Lady before Týn, St. Nicholas Church, the Vltava River, and Charles Bridge were all in sight—the perfect spot for classic photos.
The Church of Our Lady before Týn and the Marian Column in the square
St. Nicholas Church
The Jan Hus Monument in the center of the square
The inner mechanics of the Astronomical Clock
Was the facade on this wall also made using the sgraffito technique?
Cut through the neighborhood back to the hotel.
Government office building near the hotel.
Took tram number 5 to the Jewish Quarter.
Franz Kafka (3 July 1883 – 3 June 1924) was a Czech German-language novelist from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, working as an insurance clerk. His major works include 'The Trial,' 'The Castle,' and 'The Metamorphosis.' The Kafka Museum officially opened in 2005 to honor the writer.
Inside the Quadrio shopping center
The Church of St. Elias is a Baroque Catholic church with a long history dating back to the 13th century. Originally Gothic, it was rebuilt several times and now dazzles with its 18th-century Baroque interior, beautiful frescoes, and grand altar.
The Clam-Gallas Palace is a jewel of Baroque architecture in the heart of Prague's Old Town. Its opulent decorations and elegant courtyard whisk you back to the 18th-century aristocratic life.
It runs through Prague's historically significant Jewish Quarter. Along the street you can see the famous Spanish Synagogue and the Old Jewish Cemetery.
This is a bronze sculpture depicting Kafka riding a huge, empty suit without a rider, as if it were a horse. The image is directly inspired by Kafka's short story 'Description of a Struggle.' Surreal and symbolic, it represents insubstantial authority, absurd journeys, and the individual's insignificance and helplessness in a vast bureaucratic system (the empty suit).
The High Synagogue holds a special place in the Jewish architectural complex due to its unique location and function. Its name comes not from its height but because its prayer hall is on the second floor, above street level, sharing the building with the Jewish Town Hall. Built in the late 16th century (around 1577), it was originally a private place of worship for the elite and wealthy members of the Jewish Quarter. Tightly connected to the adjacent Jewish Town Hall, it allowed community leaders to pray conveniently while handling administrative affairs, forming a combined administrative and religious complex.
The Jewish Museum, founded in 1906, houses treasures and historic buildings that tell the story of Jews living in Prague.
Rudolfinum was built between 1876 and 1884, named after the Austrian Crown Prince Rudolf (son of Emperor Franz Joseph I) who sponsored its construction. A world-class concert hall, it is home to the Czech Philharmonic and one of the finest Neo-Renaissance buildings in Europe.
This staircase through a low river passage leads to the underside of Charles Bridge, saving you a detour.
From the cliff edge on the south side of the park, you can overlook the bridges spanning the Vltava River.
A giant metronome stands at the eastern end of the park, its red needle swinging ceaselessly—a surreal modern art installation contrasting starkly with the ancient city below.
Čech Bridge is the gateway to Letná Park.
A cobblestone street from 1611. Prague has many such cobbled paths; walking along them, you unknowingly step back through centuries.
The Powder Tower was built in 1475 as one of Prague's 13 city gates. Originally, it was connected to the royal palace by a small bridge. However, before it was completed, in 1485 King Vladislav Jagellonský moved his residence to Prague Castle. Still, the tower remained important for monarchs—until 1836, they had to pass through it on their way to St. Vitus Cathedral for coronations. In the 17th century, it was used to store gunpowder, hence the name.
The Municipal House was built in 1911 on the site of the former court of the Bohemian kings. On October 28, 1918, Czechoslovakia's independence was declared in its Smetana Hall. It was also the venue for historic negotiations in 1989 between the government and Václav Havel's Civic Forum. The building is grand and elegant. Above the main entrance is a huge semicircular mosaic, 'Homage to Prague,' by Karel Špillar, symbolizing the Czech national revival. Inside, the décor is lavish. It is home to the Prague Symphony Orchestra and a main venue for the Prague Spring International Music Festival.
The House of the Black Madonna is a Cubist building. Cubism is an art movement that depicts things with simple geometric shapes and lines; applied to architecture, it creates Cubist buildings. To blend with its surroundings, however, this house also incorporates some Baroque elements. The ground floor is a café, and upstairs is the Czech Cubist Museum.
The Carolinum is the oldest and most central building of the university, its historical birthplace. Today, it houses the university's rectorate and central administration and is the venue for the most important academic ceremonies, such as graduation ceremonies.
Found a place to eat first, as I'd be attending a chamber music concert in the evening.
The Church of the Holy Spirit was originally built in the second half of the 13th century and was rebuilt around 1346, giving it the Gothic core we see today.
The Spanish Synagogue's exterior is relatively modest, but inside it is sheer opulence—a dream woven from gold, color, and pattern. The walls, arcades, and huge central dome are covered in intricate stucco reliefs, filled with classic Islamic geometric designs, arabesques, and inscriptions. With gold as the base, accented by vivid reds, blues, and greens, the interior glows resplendently under the lights.
The synagogue features a central dual-aisle layout, with the huge golden dome as a visual focal point, creating a sense of openness and sanctity.
Inside, there is a beautiful organ, and the excellent acoustics make it a superb venue for classical concerts and recitals. Large stained-glass windows with abstract patterns cast colorful patterns when sunlight streams through.
The Old Town Bridge Tower stands at the eastern end of Charles Bridge (the Old Town side), where the bridge meets Křížovnická Street. Built around 1370, it was designed by the great Peter Parler, like St. Vitus Cathedral. Above the arch, fine coats of arms and figures are carved.
Climbing to the top of the Old Town Bridge Tower
The top of the Old Town Bridge Tower offers the best views of Charles Bridge.
The castle as seen from the bridge
The oldest sculpture, 'The Crucifix,' with golden Hebrew text meaning 'Holy, holy, holy is the Lord of Hosts.'
St. John of Nepomuk: the bridge's most famous patron saint. Legend says that because he refused to reveal the queen's confessions to the king, he was thrown off this bridge into the Vltava and martyred in 1393. The site of his martyrdom has become an eternal place of pilgrimage. On the pedestal of his statue are two shinny bronze reliefs depicting the saint being thrown from the bridge and the queen's confession.
Legend has it that touching the reliefs brings good luck and ensures you will one day return to Prague. So there is always a queue of visitors rubbing them for luck, making the bronze shine like mirrors.
Here it's less crowded, no queue, so I gave them a rub, hoping to return to Prague next year.
The Lesser Town Bridge Tower consists of two towers from different eras and styles, connected by an archway. Together they guard the entrance to the Lesser Town from the bridge, forming another iconic Prague scene.
The shorter tower, Judith Tower, dates from the late 12th century and is Romanesque. It is a remnant of the Judith Bridge, the predecessor of Charles Bridge, which was destroyed by flooding in 1342. This tower is Prague's oldest surviving bridge tower, bearing witness to the earliest bridge history.
The taller tower was built in the second half of the 15th century (around 1464) in Gothic style, commissioned by King George of Bohemia. Its design was clearly influenced by Peter Parler's Old Town Bridge Tower, but it is slightly smaller and more simply decorated.
Passed through the Lesser Town bridge tower towards the castle.
The castle sits on a hill on the west bank of the Vltava.
The castle's history dates back to the 9th century, over 1,000 years. According to Guinness World Records, it is the largest ancient castle complex in the world.
Matthias Gate was built by Emperor Matthias in 1614, in early Baroque style.
Sternberg Palace is one of the most important branches of the Czech National Gallery, with its permanent exhibition 'European Classical Art.'
Tuscany Palace is an elegant Baroque mansion built in the late 17th century. Its history goes back to the Toscani family, after whom it is named.
Every day at noon, a grand ceremony takes place. Accompanied by a military band, the guards perform a changing of the guard with perfectly synchronized steps.
After the ceremony, I moved on to the second courtyard.
St. Vitus Cathedral is the most important landmark of Prague Castle, not only for its architectural richness but also as the place where royal coronations took place and where many royals are buried. The cathedral underwent three expansions: the original rotunda of St. Wenceslas from 929 was expanded into a basilica in 1060, and in 1344 Charles IV ordered the construction of a Gothic structure, which wasn't fully completed until 1929.
The arches and flying buttresses are richly decorated.
Just inside the entrance, the vivid stained-glass window on the left is the work of the famous Prague painter Mucha, adding a touch of modernity to this thousand-year-old church.
Behind the altar is the tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, made of two tons of pure silver and richly decorated. He was a counter-reformation figure who was buried in St. Vitus Cathedral in 1736.
Climbed the Great South Tower to overlook Prague. The tower is 96.6 meters tall with 287 steps, but you can take the elevator to the top.
Red roofs of Prague's Old Town and Lesser Town, with Charles Bridge spanning the Vltava.
Bridges meandering gracefully across the Vltava.
Descended the South Tower and went to the Old Royal Palace.
Vladislav Hall was built by King Vladislav Jagiellon at the end of the 15th century and was one of the largest secular vaulted halls in Europe at the time. Its magnificent wavy rib vaulting is a masterpiece of late Gothic architecture, resembling blooming flowers or flowing waves, both beautiful and powerful. It was used for grand coronation celebrations, knightly tournaments (knights could ride their horses right in via the adjacent 'Rider's Staircase'), and royal markets. Today it is the venue for the Czech presidential election and important state events.
1618 'Second Defenestration of Prague': the spark that ignited the Thirty Years' War. Protestant nobles threw two Catholic governors and their secretary out of this window of the palace (they survived by landing in a dung heap). This event marked the outbreak of religious conflict.
Then walked through the hall.
Stepping into the church, you are immediately struck by its austere, massive, even somewhat rough Romanesque style. Low arcades, squat pillars, and thick walls contrast sharply with the soaring Gothic of St. Vitus Cathedral, exuding a raw sense of power. This simple style carries you back to the dawn of the Czech state and Christian faith.
The crypt and nave of the church serve as the royal tomb for Bohemia's early ruling dynasty—the Přemyslids. Buried here are the founders of the dynasty, including the church's founder Vladislav I and St. Ludmila, the grandmother of St. Wenceslas. Her tomb chamber is one of the most exquisite parts of the church.
The interior is adorned with frescoes depicting the life of St. Ludmila, of great artistic and historical value.
Castle Gallery: originally the castle stables, it was converted by Ferdinand I in the 16th century Renaissance into a gallery dedicated to the royal art collection. Today it still houses the Prague Castle Gallery, with valuable paintings from the era of Emperor Rudolf II and other European masters.
After the visit, I returned to the second courtyard.
Tired from walking, I got an ice cream.
Charles Bridge was on my way back to the hotel.
Found a restaurant near Charles Bridge.
The library is cozy and bright.
The two 80-meter Gothic spires are the church's most striking feature. They are not perfectly symmetrical; one is stouter, which is why Týn Church is sometimes called 'Adam and Eve.' The towers create a gloomy, fairy-tale demon castle atmosphere, hence its nickname 'the Devil's Church.'
The main altar features Karel Škréta's magnificent altarpiece 'The Holy Trinity.'
Near Old Town Square, many little stalls were roasting whole pigs, drawing crowds of tourists.
I got a portion to try the local Prague snack—mmm, the most delicious roast meat of the trip so far.
Everyone was eating standing up.
St. Wenceslas Church was built in 1929-1930. Its clean geometric forms and unique tower design stand in stark contrast to Prague's ancient Gothic and Baroque churches.
The National Museum was built between 1885 and 1891. Its very purpose was to showcase Czech cultural identity and pride, a symbol of the Czech National Revival. The main building stands at the top of Wenceslas Square, facing the New Building (former Federal Assembly) across the street, together forming a majestic architectural ensemble. (Note: Wenceslas Square was under construction, so I couldn't fully appreciate the museum's facade.)
The New Building of the National Museum (former Federal Assembly).
Taking a photo of Wenceslas Avenue from the museum.
The hall, marble staircase, and dome frescoes are resplendent.
The observation deck in the main building's dome offers a magnificent 360-degree view of Wenceslas Square and Prague's cityscape.
The permanent exhibition 'Miraculous Evolution' beneath the dome hall displays amazing animal specimens (including prehistoric mammoths and dinosaur skeletons), mineral specimens, and the story of human evolution, beautifully curated and highly interactive.
The main building and the new building of the National Museum
The Vltava is the longest river in the Czech Republic. It winds through Prague, dividing the city into two halves: the Old Town, Lesser Town, and Castle District on its banks. It is more than just a blue line on a map; it is a source of the city's history, culture, art, and romance.
This restaurant has an elegant setting and is one of the best places to view the Vltava, but unfortunately I couldn't get a reservation.
Found another restaurant by the river and sat down to quietly enjoy its beauty.
Walking from the west bank to the east bank
Came to Charles Bridge again
Reached the east bank just as the sun was setting, its golden rays spilling across the water and turning the entire Vltava into a river of molten gold.
Prague Castle towered above on the hill, standing majestically in the warm glow.
Standing on the bank, I felt the whole city breathe, slow and romantic at that moment.
The Legion Bridge was built between 1898 and 1901. Originally named after Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I, it was renamed after the Czechoslovak Republic was founded following WWI to honor the Czechoslovak Legions that fought for independence.
The history of the National Theatre is an epic of national passion. In the 19th century, under Habsburg rule, German was the official language. Czech intellectuals and patriots eagerly wanted a professional theatre performing in Czech to promote their national culture. All the funds for construction came from voluntary donations by people across the country, from the rich to peasants, rallying under the slogan 'The nation for itself.' In 1881, as the theatre neared completion, a devastating fire broke out. But it didn't break the people's spirit; in just 47 days, they raised enough money to rebuild it. The new theatre reopened in 1883, with the first opera being Smetana's 'Libuše,' a work praising the Czech nation.
Its most striking features are the golden dome and the shimmering rooftop sculpture of a triga (three-horse chariot). The exterior walls are adorned with statues of numerous Czech historical figures and muses. Above the main entrance is inscribed 'Národ sobě,' meaning 'The nation for itself,' the core of its spirit.
Street lamps flickered on one by one, like twinkling stars, their reflections shimmering on the dark blue river, mingling with the sunset glow.
The Dancing House is the nickname for the Nationale-Nederlanden building. The original building on the site was destroyed during WWII bombing of Prague when US forces mistook it for Dresden, Germany. The Dancing House was designed in 1992 and completed in 1996.
The Dancing House is also known as 'Fred and Ginger,' after Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, likening it to a pair of dancers. Standing out among Neo-Baroque, Neo-Gothic, and Art Nouveau buildings, it is a very famous and iconic structure in Prague.
At that moment, the castle looked like a golden city suspended in the sky.
A new day began. Today I set off for the New Town Hall.
The New Town Hall was first built in the mid-14th century (after 1348), then expanded and remodeled over time. It is mainly Gothic, with a Renaissance-style dome added to the tower in the 16th century. Historically, it was the administrative center of the New Town and witnessed a pivotal moment in Czech history. In 1420, the radical Hussite preacher Jan Želivský led followers to the New Town Hall demanding the release of imprisoned Hussites. When negotiations broke down, the angry Hussites stormed the building and threw the mayor, councilors, and several other officials—seven people in total—out of a high window. Down below, Hussites with spears caught the falling men and killed them all. This 'First Defenestration of Prague' marked the start of the fifteen-year Hussite Wars.
The New Town Hall can normally be visited and climbed, but when I tried on the 14th I arrived too late to buy a ticket. Today, unfortunately, it was not open to the public.
Charles Square Garden.
With the New Town Hall closed, I headed to the Smetana Museum.
Passed by the National Awakening Park, a small park along the road with a striking monument in the middle.
A statue of Smetana stands in a small square, unveiled on June 4, 1984. It is 2.35 meters tall, made entirely of bronze.
This is a perfect spot to pause and admire the views of the Vltava, Charles Bridge, and Prague Castle.
Relaxed and rested for a while.
The Goethe-Institut serves as an important cultural bridge between the Czech Republic and Germany, presenting a vibrant picture of contemporary German culture.
On my last day in Prague, I had one more Czech-style meal, plus a glass of Prague beer.
Prague is a three-dimensional history book written in stone. Wandering aimlessly through it, I let the cobblestone streets lead me onward. The imperial majesty of the castle, the civic vitality of Old Town Square, the resilient memories of the Jewish Quarter—together they tell of a thousand-year entanglement of power, art, and faith. Prague's magic lies in how it transforms its weighty history into everyday poetry. It is like a dream you don't want to wake from—a golden, stone, eternal dream. And I am grateful to have been a passerby in this dream.
Next: Three-Month Europe Tour Part 9: 'Crossing Germany from North to South: Graffiti under the Berlin Wall and the Church of Our Lady in Dresden'
Travelogue Directory: 1. Foreword 2. Prague 3. Havel's Market 4. Estates Theatre 5. Old Town Square 6. Lennon Wall 7. Church of St. Nicholas (Lesser Town) 8. Old Town Hall Tower Climb 9. Franz Kafka Sculpture 10. Prague National Library 11. Pařížská Street 12. Old-New Synagogue 13. Kafka Museum 14. Letná Park 15. Charles University 16. Spanish Synagogue 17. Old Town Square at Night 18. Old Town Bridge Tower Climb 19. Charles Bridge 20. Sternberg Palace 21. Changing of the Guard 22. St. Vitus Cathedral 23. St. Vitus Cathedral — Great South Tower Climb 24. Old Royal Palace 25. St. George's Basilica 26. Golden Lane 27. Municipal Library 28. Church of Our Lady before Týn 29. Wenceslas Square 30. National Museum 31. Vltava River 32. New Town Hall 33. Smetana Museum Travel Information Hotel Index Guide Index Flight Index Site Navigation Tour Index Cruise Index Business Travel Index Partnerships Distribution Alliance Links Corporate Gift Card Purchase Insurance Agent Agency Cooperation Hotel Franchise Destination & Scenic Spot Cooperation More Partnerships About Ctrip About Ctrip Ctrip Hot Topics Contact Us Careers User Agreement Privacy Policy Business License Security Center Ctrip Content Center Intellectual Property Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure
