48 Hours on the West Coast | A Date with a Different Qingdao

📍 Qingdao · 👁 13 reads · ❤️ 89 likes

As half a Qingdao native, I saw the sea for the first time in my life during my college entrance exam year. Like countless teenagers who leave home to study far away, I was filled with both hope and uncertainty about the future. I remember driving onto the Jiaozhou Bay Bridge and glancing out the window—under the blazing midday sun, against a backdrop of blue sky and white clouds, an expanse of shimmering blue caught my eye.

In the years that followed, I saw the sea many times. Sunrise at the beach in the early morning, sunset glow at dusk, and even silly late-night calls to a childhood friend just to let her hear the roaring waves. This very sea gave me a bond, making me look back and move forward again and again in Qingdao, my second hometown.

For a long time, Qingdao has always been summed up in the phrase "green tiles, green trees, blue sea, blue sky." But at the beginning of this summer, when I made plans with friends to visit the Qingdao West Coast New Area, I realized that this familiar city had long since developed more character and depth. The West Coast is a film capital, a music island, a beer city, and a coastal destination for conventions and exhibitions.

Over 48 hours together, I let my imagination run wild in the world of light and shadow, traced the history of beer, felt the sea breeze on my skin, and ran gleefully through lush greenery. Savoring it all, I discovered that this city I've known for nearly a decade is always full of surprises waiting to be unveiled, like a bride in a red veil, full of anticipation.

When outsiders talk about Qingdao, legends often involve beer. They're puzzled by the sight of draft beer being carried in plastic bags during scorching summers, and they're amazed by the bold, chugging style of Qingdao locals. There's even the joke that "turn on the tap in Qingdao and beer flows out." Well, it might not be a joke—at the Golden Beach Beer City, beer really does pour from the pipes.

The Golden Beach Beer City has also been the main venue for the Qingdao International Beer Festival in recent years. I first got to know the festival back in college, when a few friends and I would hit the evening sessions, each with a huge mug of draft beer, turning a night already charged with music into an explosive party. To me, the Beer Festival is about youth and friendship, and it's a unique imprint of Qingdao. A few years slipped by, and the main venue moved here, but what hasn't changed is that Qingdao-style warmth and passion.

Before even entering, my eyes were drawn entirely to this gigantic sculpture of Qingdao toasting the world. Every year during the Beer Festival, beer-loving partygoers from across the country and even the world gather here, making it a cultural window for the city.

Next to the beer city is the Golden Beach, with its beautiful coastline. It boasts the finest sand, the largest area, and the most stunning scenery in China, earning the nickname "Asia's No.1 Beach." Even on a cloudy day, it still has its own unique seaside charm. Friends who love the sea take advantage of the weaker UV rays on overcast days to quickly gather everyone for a stroll by the sea—walking barefoot on the sand, digging for tiny crabs in the rock crevices, or standing on the highest reef to feel the distinctive breath of the sea breeze.

Although the Qingdao International Beer Festival is only held in summer, this Golden Beach Beer City runs smoothly year-round, contributing to spreading beer culture. At the Beer Museum inside the beer city, you can learn how this timeless drink evolved—and what shocked me was that its origins can be traced back over 7,000 years. Wow, humans back then were so clever! How modern beer is brewed, and which scientists made innovations along the way… you can find out all about it in the museum.

Oh, I almost forgot to mention Ha Jiu! This cultural IP of the Golden Beach Beer City gets its name from the Qingdao dialect word for "drink beer" (ha jiu), which instantly feels familiar and friendly. Ha Jiu and Ha Jiuma (his wife) have become ambassadors for Qingdao's beer culture. In the beer city's "Not a Bookstore", you'll find all sorts of Ha Jiu-themed merchandise, so adorably charming you can't put them down.

After learning so much about beer culture, you absolutely must head next door to the craft beer pub for a huge glass—well, an oversized one—and chug, chug, chug.

The craft beer pub is also a great spot for photos. With a whole graffiti wall as the backdrop, your pictures come out naturally cute and lively.

Pipes run through the craft beer pub, and when you flip the switch, house-brewed craft beer flows right out. Ha, so the legendary beer tap—isn't it right here?

I decided to order a flight of their signature brews: six small glasses of beer with different ingredients, brewing processes, and flavors—stout, IPA… Distinct ingredients and distinct tastes, you can sample them all without getting drunk. Drinking is all about having fun, after all; just remember to do it in moderation.

My friends and I booked the best-view private room in the pub. During the Beer Festival, you can overlook the bustling streets right from the window—arguably one of the best vantage points, haha.

Then order a table of authentic Qingdao dishes. Who says bar snacks can only be peanuts and edamame? We've got chicken, fish, seafood—an incredibly lavish spread.

Langya chicken, fried prawns, squid… All are local specialties. Paired with beer, even outsiders can feel the true taste of Qingdao in that tipsy moment.

As night fell, I looked down from a bird's-eye view. The Phoenix Sound Theatre resembled a phoenix spreading its wings, standing glittering by the sea. The staff told me that during the Beer Festival, the lights here become even more dazzling, and many spectacular shows are staged, turning the theatre into a true music island where beautiful melodies fill the air.

Since the Oriental Movie Metropolis settled in the West Coast New Area in 2018, Qingdao's identity as a film capital has become more widely known. The blockbuster "The Wandering Earth" a few years ago was filmed right here, and much of my favorite light comedy "Adoring" and the school drama "The Best of Us" were shot in Qingdao. Haha, I'd always concentrate so hard while watching to spot Qingdao landmarks—for example, the street where Geng Geng and Yu Huai walk to and from school is actually in Qingdao's Badaguan area.

The Qingdao Film Museum is located at Lingshan Bay. When driving from the city center through the tunnel to the West Coast, the towering red castle you glimpse is it. There's also a newly opened coffee truck at the entrance, with a good-looking red exterior—I'd bet it'll soon become a new photo hot spot on the West Coast.

The museum has two floors. The first floor largely tells the story of world cinema and Qingdao's own film history. In the world cinema exhibition area, we got to trace the evolution of film technology through the changing use of 8mm, 16mm, and 35mm cameras. Walking along the world cinema gallery, we paid tribute to classic works through a collection of film stills.

In 2017, UNESCO officially designated Qingdao as a "City of Film"—the ninth such city in the world and the first in China.

In the Qingdao film exhibition hall, the long corridor makes you feel as if you're accompanying the city through a century of cinematic history. Scenes from films shot in Qingdao are vividly recreated, filling you with a sense of pride.

The museum's second floor usually hosts temporary exhibitions. On the day I visited, there was a film and aerospace exhibition. In a universe measured in milliseconds, humans are so tiny, yet our relentless exploration of space makes us grand. This exhibition showcased aerospace research achievements from around the world and from China, and paired with the wild imagination of science fiction films, it felt like boarding a spaceship and flying into the vast cosmos.

There's also a lounge area on the second floor. After touring the museum, order a cup of coffee and read a book—it's the most leisurely part of a relaxing holiday. Oh, and don't miss the newly upgraded VR zone in the museum! With a controller in hand, you can experience over a dozen different types of VR games.

Just a short walk from the Film Museum, outside the Sunac Mall, is the West Coast Republic Street. This short street is packed with rows of shops, tram tracks, and vintage telephone booths. Stepping into it, you can't help but exclaim, "This is the real deal!"—it feels like you've traveled back to old Shanghai. Pair it with a cheongsam, turn on the gramophone at dusk, and suddenly you're reminded of Maggie Cheung's graceful figure in "In the Mood for Love."

Department stores, eyewear companies, car rentals, soap factories… all were the trendiest businesses of the Republican era, and gathering places for the fashionable crowd. We can't experience every era firsthand or stroll down a century-old street, so let's indulge in the fantasy right here.

If Qingdao's romance with the sea has written many beautiful poems, then seashells are the indispensable punctuation marks in those verses. On the shore of Tangdao Bay, there's a private shell museum covering over 2,600 square meters, exhibiting more than 4,000 specimens from over 60 countries across the four oceans and five continents.

I used to think shells were just pretty, but after visiting the museum, I learned there's a lot of science behind them—from astronomy to geography, and even math and bionics. For example, the first submarine, named the Nautilus, was built based on the water storage system of the nautilus shell.

The most dreamy part of the museum has to be the largest indoor beach runway in the country. Stepping carefully on the glass floor, you see a beach scene made of sand and shells beneath your feet. Walking down the runway, doesn't it feel like you're strolling by the sea?

The museum's prized treasure is this giant slit shell (Longgong Wengrong snail), which the staff says is worth about 6 million RMB! It's the largest species among slit shells, with a diameter of about 10 to 23 centimeters. Currently, only around 300 specimens exist in museums and private collections worldwide—a priceless gem that money can't easily buy.

Nature is truly marvelous; a tiny shell can have a huge role. Place a large conch shell on a Bluetooth speaker, and suddenly the music has its own reverb. This property of the conch was discovered long ago and used as battle horns in ancient warfare.

Beyond having interesting souls, shells also have beautiful appearances. In the museum's interactive area, all sorts of craft tools are laid out, and visiting kids turn into little artists, using their creativity to transform shells into one-of-a-kind artworks.

At the museum's exit, this shell-related character family tree chart is a real eye-opener. Why are so many Chinese characters with the "shell" radical related to wealth? Haha, it turns out shells were once used as currency in ancient times—what a fascinating insight!

Cangma Mountain is a long-established tourist resort in the West Coast New Area. I've visited many times on and off since it opened. In winter, there's skiing and hot springs; in summer, fruit picking and flower fields. Every day it offers its own unique beauty. This time, what greeted me was a vast field of purple sage. Qingdao's summer sky is as changeable as a child's mood. Strolling through the flower field in a light rain, I wasn't worried about getting wet; instead, it felt ethereal and beautiful.

It's called "Cangma Mountain" because of the mountain's unique shape—the lower hills resemble a hidden horse. Since they named it that, horseback riding is naturally on offer. So, along the small path in the flower field, put on your protective gear, lead a white horse for a walk, or hop on and ride a few circles to feel the unique rhythm of being on horseback. Without a Prince Charming to guard you, be brave and be your own knight.

Hidden within Cangma Mountain is a farm base, filled with fruits, vegetables, and flowers. When harvest season comes, it becomes a popular spot for picking fun. When we arrived, sweet-and-sour cherry tomatoes and creamy little pumpkins were ripe for the picking. Carrying a small bamboo basket and harvesting these fruits of labor with your own hands gives you a greater sense of achievement than just buying them at the supermarket.

After a sudden downpour, everything around turned even greener. Walking on the damp stone path, I turned into the adjacent A Duo Town. With its grey tiles, white walls, and rustic wooden gate, it suddenly carried a touch of Anhui-style architecture. Hydrangeas bloomed perfectly in the corner—though spring is a time of a hundred flowers vying for attention, the summer blooms naturally exude a different kind of vivid passion.

At noon, I went to A Duo Kitchen for a hearty meal to reward my damp body. In the cool weather, even a seemingly greasy braised pork dish tasted light and sweet. Then I ordered a bowl of Qingdao's unique tofu pudding with all the condiments, which instantly sparked a friendly debate between my northern and southern friends over whether tofu pudding should be sweet or savory.

On this trip to Qingdao's West Coast, I stayed at two hotels, both intimately connected to the sea.

[Mangrove Tree Coral Hotel: Don't Miss the Japanese-style Hot Springs]

The Coral Hotel is a high-end hotel within the Mangrove Tree Resort. My favorite part is overlooking this beach from the balcony. In the distance, the sea is shrouded in mist, but it doesn't detract from the clear water and golden sand right before my eyes.

The guest rooms are super spacious, and as soon as I walked in, I regretted not bringing a yoga mat to keep up with my weight-loss plan. The room is fully equipped, and the bright, airy environment instantly lifts your mood.

Back at the hotel at night, I naturally couldn't miss the Jile Hot Springs in the resort. This Japanese-style hot spring area has both indoor and outdoor baths connected to each other. Wooden pavilions and cherry blossom tree installations give it a quintessentially Japanese feel. Under the night lights, the bluish glow created a scene straight out of a picture—like a fiery tree and silver blossoms.

The unique soft water, low in magnesium and calcium, has moisturizing and skin-nourishing effects. After soaking, change into a yukata and relax in the indoor lounge area. Here, you'll find not just sauna, fish therapy, and a dining area, but also a kids' play zone. Parents bringing little ones won't need to worry—active kids will definitely have a blast here.

[Wanda Vista Hotel: Morning on Starlight Island]

The second night of the trip, I stayed at the Wanda Vista Hotel on Starlight Island, part of the Oriental Movie Metropolis. This hotel combines elements of a European castle and the ocean, resembling a magnificent mansion. The grand fortress, romantic fountains, and neatly trimmed yet vibrant trees swaying under the blue sky suddenly brought to mind Jolin Tsai's classic song "Prague Square."

Upon entering the lobby, the fresh ocean breeze vibe hits you right away, with strong design elements. The ceiling combines a glass dome and crystal chandeliers, while on one side, a conch wall made of thousands of glass conchs shifts patterns with the changing lights.

The rooms are also full of ocean style: sky-blue walls, deep-blue curtains, and a shell-shaped headboard. Spend a night here, and you might just dream of sleeping on the sea.

I woke up naturally, opened the curtains, and the horizon where sky meets sea already had that unique early-morning look. I quickly got dressed and went for a stroll along the coastal path. This long path is paved with rubber, loved by many morning and evening joggers for its quiet, pleasant environment. When the sun isn't too strong, renting a bicycle on Starlight Island and chatting with friends while feeling the sea breeze is a truly special experience.

There's also a "secret spot" on Starlight Island: next to the Wanda Realm Hotel, there's a small deer park with four adorable sika deer frolicking about. Ha, you don't need to go to Nara in Japan to get up close to deer! The four deer are named after Wanda's hotel brands and are extremely timid—they run at the sight of people, so getting a photo with them takes some skill. Here's a little secret: the deer named Ruirui is braver, and you can also call the keeper for help when taking photos.

After an evening out, we drove back across the Coral Shell Bridge, which looks like a silver shuttle connecting Starlight Island and Lingshan Bay. The bridge's upper structure features the country's first "coral shell" decorative arches, resembling a gigantic shell arc blooming on the West Coast—majestic and beautiful.

Before bed, I grabbed a late-night snack at the beer tent next to the hotel: crawfish, skewers, beer—all lined up. A wonderful night must end with good food, of course.

[The Taste of the Sea]

When coming to Qingdao for authentic local cuisine, you've got to start with seafood! I chose the "Taste of the Sea" restaurant next to Navy Park; the name alone promises a full seafood feast. Whether it's cold dishes, hot dishes, salty or spicy, every dish features seafood. Squid, mantis shrimp, prawns, whelks… they're prepared in a dizzying array of forms, with flavors that shift in a thousand ways. Oh, and I highly recommend their house-made shrimp paste—it's richer than the usual kind. If you love that flavor, be sure to give it a try!

[Huangtuzhuang Food Street: Stuffed at Liu Er Fried Chicken, Nostalgia at Class 3, Grade 2]

When it comes to food on the West Coast, Huangtuzhuang Food Street definitely deserves a spot. I dashed there with my friends, intent on eating our way through the whole street, and our foodie adventure began at Liu Er Fried Chicken. It's a long-established joint, crazy busy during mealtimes. We ordered their signature fried chicken—a huge plate with rich, flavorful gravy and chicken that's firm and chewy; one bite and you're hooked, haha. Then we added crawfish, scallops, abalone, whelks, clams—instantly turning it into a major seafood spread. And seafood demands beer, especially in the lively buzz of evening; it just feels right to have a bottle. The place offers Tsingtao Beer, Laoshan Beer, Wusu—locals or imports, it doesn't matter, getting tipsy is the best feeling. The restaurant has a strong nostalgic vibe, evident from the tableware: enamel bowls, plates, cups, and clams served on a shovel—such playful, offbeat touches. Reluctantly we stopped at 80% full and then turned next door to "Class 3, Grade 2." The name alone screams youth. Walls plastered with award certificates, a blackboard scribbled with menu items, neatly aligned desks… It's the perfect place to make up for all those times in school I didn't dare eat in class, haha.

College days feel like just yesterday, but when I really think about it, years have passed. Time is such a peculiar thing—both fleeting and long. Let's crack open a bottle of Erguotou liquor, take a sip to the past, and another to the future. Rubbing my round belly, I still couldn't resist ordering a few of the restaurant's signature barbecued meats. Skewers and beer—that's the quintessential Qingdao summer.

Spending 48 hours together, I went from being a stranger to the West Coast to starting to know it. In that brief time, I also visited Navy Park to feel a different kind of sea breeze. Here, the sea is blue, the sky is clear, the hills are lush, the beaches stretch far, and the warships are magnificent. It's also China's first completed naval-themed park, blending strong military cultural elements with beautiful natural scenery. I also passed by the China Railway Qingdao World Expo City, where all kinds of large-scale exhibitions are held every year, covering oceans, automobiles, agriculture, and every other field. Each September, the East Asia Marine Cooperation Platform Qingdao Forum is hosted here. The economy is soaring, civilization is advancing, and I hope more people around the world get to know this charming seaside town.

The Qingdao I know so well is the distant place I miss no matter where I go, the start and end point of countless flight paths on my map, and the second hometown where I can sit on the beach, listen to the waves, and watch 43 sunsets. To the unfamiliar West Coast New Area of Qingdao, I only spent 48 hours with you, but I fell in love at first sight. Now, let me witness even more of your beauty in the future.

Travelogue Contents

1. Rediscovering Qingdao | Hello, West Coast

2. Golden Beach Beer City | An Unbreakable Bond with Beer

3. Film Museum | Qingdao in the World of Light and Shadow

4. Shell Museum | Take a 450-Million-Year Time Machine

5. Cangma Mountain | Become a Knight on a White Horse in a Purple Flower Sea

6. Staying on the West Coast | By the Sea, With the Waves

7. Eating on the West Coast | How Can You Say You've Been to Qingdao Without Seafood?

8. Goodbye, West Coast | There's Always Something Beautiful Waiting in the Future

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