The Taixing Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park That Haunts My Dreams

My colleague suddenly invited me to spend the weekend in her hometown. I was a bit surprised. After listening to her explanation, a few of her close friends had long planned to go to her hometown Jiangyan to eat crabs during the golden autumn. Being considerate, she knew I had been facing some difficulties recently and invited me and my child to come along to relax. I initially didn’t want to disrupt their young group’s travel plans, but thinking about how kind she was, I had to accept! Besides, going out for a walk is a great thing, so I accepted with gratitude. On Saturday, everyone set off according to their own schedules and met at the hotel. That way, we could arrange our own itinerary for Saturday. Honestly, I’m used to traveling alone and not very good at group activities—I always go it alone. Different travel styles have their pros and cons. When I thought of Taizhou, the first thing that came to mind was not the Qintong Wetland Park, but the Taixing Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park. I visited Taizhou during the National Day holiday in 2014 with my parents. Our first stop was this park, located in Xuanbao Town, Taixing City. It was on the way from Nanjing to Taizhou. The park had just been developed then, with no signs along the way, poor roads, and GPS that wasn’t very reliable. We even asked locals in Taixing before we finally found it. But the scenery, the atmosphere, and the charm there have often come to mind over the years. I also remember saying when I left that I would return to see it in its most brilliant late autumn. Yet years passed without going back to Taizhou—time flies. Unexpectedly, I’m about to see it again. In October that year, the ginkgo leaves hadn’t changed color yet. Now, at the end of October, I wonder what colors will greet me. I’m so looking forward to it!

Day 1: Taixing Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park – Huangqiao Ancient Town

Day 2: Qintong Wetland Park

Accommodation: Qintong Kaiyuan Mingting Hotel

Travel date: October 26, 2019

Mode of travel: Self-driving

Taixing City in Jiangsu Province is a county-level city. The largest town in Taixing is Huangqiao, famous for its Huangqiao sesame cakes. Whether in area or urban size, Huangqiao is the biggest among Taixing’s towns. The smallest town in Taixing is Xuanbao Town, where the Taixing Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park is located. Xuanbao Town has a long history, with its name dating back to the Southern Song Dynasty. Xuan Bing, a general under the national hero Yue Fei, once set up camp and built forts here to resist the Jin army, hence the name Xuanbao. Xuanbao is known as the ‘No. 1 Town of Ginkgo in China.’ Every village, roadside, and field has ginkgo trees, but the core area is around Zhanghe.

This time, entering ‘Taixing Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park’ on the Amap app brought up clear results and guided us accurately. I have such a deep impression of this place; the scene remained the same, with rows of ginkgo trees stretching out. This photo was taken during the National Day holiday in 2014.

Now there are just a few more symbolic structures at the park entrance. A few years ago, it was simple and had nothing unrelated to nature.

Two large stones, one horizontal and one lying, on the gradually yellowing lawn tell visitors what this place is.

There are also display boards for the 70th anniversary of the founding of the country.

We parked the car in the parking lot.

Now there is a visitor service center, but it’s empty with nothing inside. It’s so aloof, as if telling us: ‘Come, and then leave quietly. I don’t need to tell you anything, nor do I want you to leave anything. Those who like it will have their own reasons to like it, and those who like it will come again just like me.’

Familiar bluestone paths lead us into the vast park. Looking around, the ginkgo leaves are still mostly green, with just a hint of yellow at the tips and edges. But I don’t regret it at all. Seeing the familiar green instead gives me a sense of peace.

I felt a sense of relief. Back then, I made a promise in my heart that I would come again to see it in its most dazzling golden yellow. Now, I’ve finally come. Although the promise was to see the most brilliant autumn, it’s hard to catch the exact peak time, so I have to visit again and again, which makes room for next time.

On the left side of the park entrance is the core area, the densest part of ancient ginkgo trees. There are 200 ginkgo trees, all over 200 years old, forming a lush, canopy-like forest and a unique natural ginkgo landscape.

The next two photos were taken in early October a few years ago at the same spot. Now at the end of October, the ginkgo leaves are still fresh and green—maybe they’re like people, hoping to get younger as they age!

The slender trunks and dense leaves of the ginkgo trees showcase their charm. The vast forest creates an ethereal space, and that beauty has taken root in my heart like a fruit of memory, making me think of it often and remember it always.

Rows of ginkgo leaves are like green velvet umbrellas, blocking out the sky. Birds chirp happily in the forest—what a wonderful scene!

Seeing the familiar scenes from my memory, scenes I often miss, fills me with contentment. As long as there is longing and anticipation, life is beautiful.

In autumn travels, I always deliberately look for the most brilliant ginkgo trees in every place. But this is the largest ginkgo gathering I’ve ever seen. No wonder experts call it ‘unique in the world, only in China.’

Zhanghe now has over 13,800 ginkgo trees, including three thousand-year-old ancient ginkgo trees, over 1,600 trees over 200 years old, and over 3,800 trees over 100 years old. The ginkgo resources are extremely rich, forming a stable plant community.

Besides the ancient ginkgo forest, the park also has young trees.

The slender, tender young ginkgo trees with their fresh green leaves are endearing.

Although it’s called a park, aside from dredging rivers, building stone revetments, laying bluestone paths, and adding some Taixing farming culture scenes and stone benches for rest,

and a small outdoor activity area for children to play,

it still maintains the original ecology of an ancient village.

What’s more precious, and also why I liked it back then, is that it remains quiet and solemn. Such a beautiful place has very few visitors. As far as I could see, only the two of us were strolling leisurely.

The ginkgo trees in the park are lush, with a mix of ages. Their huge crowns and low trunks are unique, and looking around, they are neatly arranged, especially spectacular.

Finally, I stepped into it again. Though it’s not yet the season of golden gardens, and the leaves are still green, it doesn’t diminish the profound and lingering charm.

Ancient trees, ancient villages, sunlight filtering through the dense leaves onto the thick carpet-like grass creates a vivid contrast.

Walking on the path covered with fallen leaves in the forest, sunlight cast a magical glow over the ginkgo grove. Under the sunlight, the leaves weren’t just green but reflected a spectrum of colors—a dreamlike beauty. Light seemed embedded in the leaves, flickering as they swayed.

Every ginkgo tree grows straight upward, piercing the sky. The branches sprout from the middle, spreading out like giant arms in all directions. Dense leaves dress the trees like huge umbrellas between heaven and earth. These umbrellas create a magical forest world.

Under the shelter of ginkgo trees, you might occasionally come across a small vegetable patch with taro here, pumpkins there…

Some man-made decorations in the park.

Ginkgo leaves are like master magicians. In autumn, they begin a magnificent transformation. Unlike most leaves that simply turn yellow, curl, and wither, ginkgo leaves gradually turn yellow from the edges, becoming a brilliant golden yellow.

When they fall to the ground, they are translucent golden flakes, not withered and yellowed.

Looking closely, the ginkgo leaves have a green base with beautiful golden edges, bordered with light brown, creating a fusion of midsummer and autumn beauty under the sun.

This thick, tall, and branchy ancient ginkgo is the Queen of the forest.

Where there is a queen, there must be an emperor! The Emperor Ginkgo is single-mindedly reaching for the sky, with few side branches.

On the north side of the park is a fire-fighting water intake dock, next to the main water vein of Zhanghe Village—Xianmai River.

Two scenic bridges, Lang Bridge and Yin Bridge, span the river.

Standing on Yin Bridge, views of Xianmai River.

A poem titled ‘Small Pond’ on a stone beside the river fits the scene.

At this time of the year, the vegetation leaves aren’t uniformly green like in spring and summer; they show multiple layers of green—dark green, yellow-green, and some impatient yellow ones…

The village is nestled in the forest.

Around the village, in front and behind houses, are deeply surrounded by ginkgo trees. The ginkgo trees create a sense of mystery and fantasy in the ancient village.

Living here feels like a pastoral idyll in a paradise. Opening the front door reveals the ginkgo garden, and beneath the garden is a small vegetable patch.

The vegetable patch has a rich variety of crops.

Rural houses are different from the rigid, mass-produced urban ones.

Every house here is unique, each with its own plants in front and back, creating beautiful pictures.

Open the door or window, and in front and behind every house, along ditches and canals, all you see are ginkgo trees.

Each ginkgo tree stands in its own unique posture, accompanying the local people and showing off its elegance to occasional passers-by like us.

The ginkgo trees are tall and upright, with extraordinary presence. They not only grow tall but also have long lifespans. The fruits, commonly called white nuts (baiguo), are a green food and can also be used medicinally.

A turn on the path leads deep into the village.

Looking at Xianmai River again, with Lang Bridge not far away.

This is the eastern end of the park, with Lang Bridge spanning the river.

Guanzhang Road is neat and beautiful.

From Lang Bridge, you can see the beautiful scenery: river winding around, village guarded by ginkgo trees.

The huge crowns and low trunks of the lush ginkgo trees form the unique posture of Taixing ginkgo. Clusters of large trees surround villages or line the ditches and roads.

At the park entrance, a few villagers sell white nuts from their trees, persimmons, pumpkins, sesame, red beans, and homemade pickles—all natural and very reasonably priced. An elderly woman sold her farm products on a bench.

Persimmons this big: ten for five yuan, super sweet.

Another sister sold white nuts at her door. I bought several packs. I can’t remember the price, but it was about a dozen yuan for a big pack! Chatting with her, she showed me around her front and back yard. She is very proud of her hometown, calling it a natural oxygen bar. The quiet village is undisturbed. She mentioned her daughter in Nanjing loves coming home for holidays. She now lives with her son’s family; her son and daughter-in-law work at a nearby supermarket, plus they do some sideline work, living well. She showed me a room she had prepared for homestay, where city people can stay overnight and enjoy the natural oxygen bar. She generously picked two oranges from her yard for us to taste. What a wonderful village—if you want something, just pick it.

Every corner and space in the garden is filled with ginkgo trees. Some cluster together, complementing each other; some stand alone, creating a scene of their own. This is the Ancient Ginkgo Forest Park—low-key but passionate, lively but not noisy.

When I came in 2014, there wasn’t a single restaurant here. I remember we drove straight to Taizhou for lunch. Now there is Yinxing Garden. It’s on the left side of the parking lot, beside the river.

It’s like a small park, with a wind-and-rain corridor and a path flanked by tall ginkgo trees leading us in.

At the end of the path, a small wooden house serves as the dining area.

There is a hidden beauty here: green water surrounds, and a winding boardwalk meanders.

Aquatic plants and shore plants create layers and echoes.

The colorful autumn scenery is even more enchanting reflected in the water.

Under the majestic ginkgo trees, a pavilion and a corridor complement each other.

These few towering pine trees look like a close-knit family.

The area under the ginkgo trees is also rich: yellow daisies stand out against the green.

This is the place that has haunted my dreams for years, the place I think of every autumn. The ginkgo tree is a peculiar species, like a magician with four-season changes, whether you pay attention or not, it catches your eye. In spring, tender green shoots; in summer, dense shade; in autumn, golden fruits; in winter, silver branches. Especially with such a large area of ginkgo, these vast, mighty forests look like endless mountains, truly spectacular. It’s impossible not to notice.

What makes me love this park even more is its authenticity. Despite its brilliant scenery, it remains low-key—no admission fee, no heavy promotion. Those who like it come; once they come, they’re like family. You can visit farmers’ yards to see them drying ginkgo nuts, fish by the lake, check the garden for bright red chili peppers and purple hyacinth beans, pick oranges from the trees, or roll on the thick green carpet of grass.

There are hardly any tourists in the park, and even locals are rare. The silence is so profound you can clearly hear nature’s sounds. Here, you escape the hustle of the big city, feeling refreshed and carefree. Experience a sense of mental emptiness before setting off again. Fastening my seatbelt, I know I will come here again.