Xinghua's Serene Ancient Town and Versatile Rape Flower Fields: Spend a Romantic Spring Together
In the listless days, we filled our plans and wishes for going out. In 2020, our anticipation for spring was too long, perhaps when the first cluster of winter jasmine quietly bloomed, when the first spring rain fell joyfully, or when the drifting strands of hair gradually lengthened, our hearts gradually sprouted. Finally, at my urging, my friend arranged a weekend two-day-one-night road trip, mainly for some fresh air. After being in 'seclusion' for nearly two months, we would really grow mold if we didn't go out... Just now is the time when rape flowers are in full bloom, so this time we chose Xinghua, which is very close to Nanjing.
Xinghua is a popular weekend travel destination in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, especially in March and April each year. In previous years, we had to book accommodation well in advance, but this year, due to the epidemic, we 'turned misfortune into good fortune' and booked accommodation online directly. Departing from Nanjing, the drive took three and a half hours. Our group chatted and laughed and arrived in downtown Xinghua by noon. At this moment, eating was of course the top priority. For lunch, we chose Gongjita Hotel, a local specialty restaurant. Since Xinghua has abundant water resources, many dishes are fish and shrimp. Xinghua fish balls and salted goose are must-orders at every table. After the meal, our healing rate soared.
We ate the first crawfish of the year, hehe~
After eating and drinking to our hearts' content, we went to our first stop with beautiful moods—the Xinghua Museum. Never underestimate this place. Museums have always been carriers of culture. As a land of fish and rice, Xinghua also has its unique development charm. Historically, it has produced many talented people, and the high-quality culture passed down through generations still influences the simple folk customs here. Xinghua established this museum in 1959 (also called Zheng Banqiao and Fan Zhongyan Memorial Hall). With continuous improvement and expansion, the Xinghua Museum has become a national AAAA tourist attraction and the main office for Xinghua tourism management. So starting our journey here is definitely the right choice.
As soon as I entered the museum, I loved its architectural style. The entire building complex is an imitation of Ming and Qing architecture, with pavilions, terraces, towers, small bridges, and flowing water. As we walked deeper, the blue bricks and white walls we saw each had their own unique charm. But no one would have guessed that this beautiful and unique place was originally a prison, and the high walls above were left from the former prison. It's amazing how well it was repurposed.
Museums always preserve objects to witness history. The current collection of the Xinghua Museum has reached more than 3,000 pieces, including calligraphy and paintings, pottery, porcelain, bronze ware, etc. 'The Triple Unique Genius—Zheng Banqiao' is a permanent exhibition here. Later, we also visited Zheng Banqiao's former residence.
It's unacceptable to travel to Xinghua without visiting the Jindongmen Old Street scenic area. The old street is located on the east side of Xinghua's ancient city, with a history of over a thousand years. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, due to prosperous commerce, it was said to earn a fortune daily, hence the name 'Golden East Gate'. The museum is very close to Jindongmen Old Street, only a ten-minute walk away.
The Fourth Floor Archway Cultural Square covers an area of nearly 7,000 square meters, with the Impression Eight-zigzag Bridge, the ancient city pool ground carving, and a sunken square. This is also the main living and entertainment area for the people of Xinghua's ancient city. With leisurely locals, occasional birds flying by, and nearby rockeries, streams, and lush greenery, we stopped to rest when tired. Everything was like a painting. Watching the locals' slow-paced life was so comfortable and carefree that we truly envied them.
The Song and Ming ancient city walls, the Ming Dynasty Dongyue Temple, and then looking at the Grand Sima Mansion at the end of the street, the Zhuangyuan Archway, the Qing Dynasty Shangchizhai Pharmacy, Zheng Banqiao's former residence, Zhao Haixian's Western-style building, the Yang Family Mansion, etc., are embedded within. Connected ancient buildings, narrow and serene alleys, lively but not crowded main streets—people living here all have their own rhythm. Wandering through, I felt as if I had stumbled into a peach blossom paradise.
After strolling around the ancient city, I unconsciously adjusted to the locals' pace, moving slowly. There weren't many tourists now. I casually wandered into an alley, sat down with a shopkeeper, and chatted away an entire afternoon.
Every place has its own local specialty brand. In Xinghua, that brand is Shangchizhai Pharmacy. This pharmacy holds an extraordinary status here. Operating since the 60th year of Kangxi's reign in the Qing Dynasty, it is a trusted brand for the ancient city's residents and a famous enterprise and pharmacy in the Jianghuai region, mainly engaged in the processing and sales of Chinese herbal medicines. The pharmacy is divided into front and back workshops, with an ancient well in the courtyard, whose water is exclusively used for decocting medicine. Many people come here specifically for it. Remember to keep quiet during the visit.
Walking and stopping, we finally arrived at Zheng Banqiao's former residence, located in Zhengjia Lane outside Dongmen of Xinghua. It was unexpectedly beautiful; bamboo is not common in Xinghua, but this area is special. We entered the city via Guban Bridge and passed through a bamboo lane, where most families made a living from bamboo. No wonder Zheng Banqiao once wrote, 'Paint a thin, sparse bamboo, and use it as a fishing rod in the clear breeze on the river.'
As is well known, 'no bamboo, no residence' was one of Banqiao's great preferences. Although the current residence appears somewhat dilapidated, the courtyard scenery remains. In front of his study, there is a cluster of green bamboo. It's easy to imagine the beautiful scenery and refined taste he enjoyed while reading in his study, leading to his famous lines: 'As for my bamboo paintings, I have no teacher; I mostly learned from the sunlight and moonlight shadows on paper windows and white walls.'
When I walked out of the ancient city, I could still recall the serious expression of the pharmacist carefully preparing medicine in Shangchizhai, the hospitable noodle chef in the small restaurant, the shy and friendly shopkeeper in the grocery store, and the children with bright smiles on the road. Everything here inadvertently soothed the anxiety I had accumulated recently. This is probably the meaning and reset function of travel.
Before departure, I had heard of the reputation of Bishui Dongluo as the most beautiful village. Now I saw it, and it truly lived up to its name. Those who enjoy pastoral scenery must come here. It perfectly combines the beauty of small bridges, flowing water, and households with the villagers' desire for a better life. Even the scarecrows in the fields were neatly dressed, the walls of villagers' courtyards were covered with poetic graffiti, and there were children playing in the square. I think the happiness index here must be extremely high. Even I, a newcomer, couldn't help but want to blend in.
Although the local villagers are used to tourists, the place is surprisingly not overly commercialized. The people's simplicity and authenticity are very infectious. Occasionally, when I met a middle-aged woman cycling home, she would greet me from a distance, making me feel as intimate as a child returning home.
The Dongluo Grand Auditorium, with its red bricks and black tiles, looks like a building full of history. It has been preserved since the Qing Dynasty as a place for villagers to watch movies and gather. Now, the auditorium displays some local specialties and folk customs.
The village has also built a small 'museum' that introduces the entire village's development history and treasures old items like food stamps from the older generation, as well as sewing machines, televisions, and other old objects, all collected or donated from local villagers.
We had dinner in the Villagers' Great Cafeteria, which can be described as a deluxe version of agritainment. Living here is so joyful; being able to eat in the cafeteria every day is a happiness hard to find elsewhere. Usually, if a family holds an event, they host a banquet here.
The food was carefully prepared, all home-style dishes that go well with rice. Whether it was because we were too hungry or the dishes were truly delicious, we thought they were even better than the food at the noon restaurant! Even the white rice tasted more fragrant than usual!
Since we were staying overnight, we had booked a homestay online in advance, said to be the best one in Dongluo Village. Just its name was very poetic—Jinglan Yunduo, which seemed to draw inspiration from local materials. Leaving the hustle and bustle of the city, opening the door here revealed endless rape flower fields. At night, looking up showed a sky full of stars. Sleeping was very quiet, and we woke up to birdsong in the morning. Used to the fast pace of the city, experiencing the slow rural life here was a great choice.
Many people think that a homestay in the countryside must be dirty and ugly, but this one was not rustic at all. Its quality was not inferior to many high-end Internet-famous homestays. Clean and tidy, with warm and elegant interior decoration, I really loved the natural wood color!
After visiting the ancient city and experiencing its antique poetic charm, and resting comfortably in Dongluo Village for a night, we began the highlight of our trip—running wild in the rape flower fields. We had originally come for the Qianduo Scenic Area, one of the world's four major flower seas. I couldn't wait to see the spectacular sight of thousands of acres of rape flower fields.
The endless rape flower fields, with neatly arranged small mounds and streams flowing through them, were simply a paradise on earth, making one forget all sorrow and pain. If we got tired, we could choose to take a small boat for a spin. Smart me naturally took photos first and then slowly appreciated the view.
The rape flowers in the Qianduo Scenic Area were truly beautiful; they had even been trending before. Of course, they are famous for a reason. The flowers were well-tended, full and beautiful. The scene at harvest time must also be lively. Yes, I am that practical. Unlike cherry blossoms, which can only be admired, rape flowers have far ahead practical value.
Because the rape flower fields were so vast, from the edge they looked like a dazzling maze. Wandering around, instead of getting tired, I suddenly became excited. Who would have thought that small bridges, flowing water, pavilions, and towers could match so well with rape flowers?
Moreover, the Qianduo Scenic Area is not only a representative area of pastoral beauty but also one of the first batch of China's Important Agricultural Cultural Heritage, a four-star rural tourism spot in Jiangsu Province. It is renowned worldwide for its 'Duotian' characteristic landform and has the reputation of 'Duotian rape flowers, leading the country', 'Hometown of Vegetables', and 'Thousand Island Rape Flowers'. Creating a scenic area by taking soil from underwater shows the wisdom of farmers. When viewed from above, the continuous patches look like a maze or puzzle, don't they?
Girls who want to take great photos in the rape flower fields must not miss the Qianduo Scenic Area. The rape flower season still lasts for a while. Whether you wear Hanfu, trendy outfits, or want an artistic style, it can all be satisfied here. Rape flowers are incredibly versatile. The photos turned out stunningly beautiful.
Of course, I also seized the opportunity to take a few group photos with my friends!
If the waterborne rape flower fields are not to be missed, then the Lizhong Water Forest, known as 'Suzhong Jiuzhaigou, East China Bird Paradise', is a must-visit attraction. This is the largest man-made ecological forest in Jiangsu Province, with forest and water areas each taking half. The park has abundant water systems and crisscrossing rivers, forming a unique landscape of 'rivers looping back and metasequoia standing in rows'.
Apart from cultivating high-quality trees and wildlife, the staff always cleverly decorate the park beautifully. Strings of handmade windmills hang all over the corridor. When a gentle breeze blows, the windmills spin with a creaking sound, creating another beautiful scene.
The water forest has an excellent ecological environment, naturally becoming an oxygen bar. The scenic area not only has large patches of February orchids but also tens of thousands of migratory birds such as egrets and black storks. As we walked on the wooden boardwalk, 'big white birds' occasionally flew over from the trees above. If you observe carefully, you might even find one or two bird eggs under a tree by the lake.
There are 108 tall metasequoias in the park, named 'Heroes' Forest' after the 108 heroes from the Water Margin. At the end of the corridor, you can see some wooden houses on the water. Their cute shapes are like the real scenes from the fairy tale kingdom I imagined as a child.
The lively park not only brought us good moods but also seemed to inject some vitality into us. Visiting here with family or friends is also a good choice. The park has a children's playground. With green trees providing shade, suddenly a small boat swiftly passed by. Choosing a shady spot under a tree, laying out a checkered cloth, and arranging flowers and delicious food for a picnic—how wonderful!
The air was filled with floral fragrance, the sunshine was gentle. In the leisurely afternoon, perhaps we passed by each other here but shared the beautiful wind and clouds. 3 PM is the best time to enjoy February orchids in the forest park. The mist machine was set up, making it both beautiful and photogenic. Remember to check in!
Happy times are always too short. A small weekend passed by, and I was a bit reluctant to leave. Take advantage of the beautiful spring to reward yourself with some relaxing moments, then treasure them in the busyness of every day. Occasionally flipping through them, they will be the most anticipated surprises in ordinary days.