Xinghua 'Yellow Sweeping' Campaign: Scenery, Cuisine, and Culture, Not One Can Be Missed!

Xinghua 'Yellow Sweeping'

In spring, viewing rapeseed flowers is popular everywhere!

But there is one place where the rapeseed flowers are destined to be different, called: Xinghua Qanduo Rapeseed. Why is it different? We need to start from Xinghua's geographical environment. Xinghua City is a county-level city under the administration of Taizhou City, located in the central part of Jiangsu Province, on the northern wing of the Yangtze River Delta, between the Yangtze and Huaihe rivers, in the hinterland of the Lixiahe region. Therefore, Xinghua has a low altitude and numerous rivers crisscrossing its territory, making it a well-known 'land of fish and rice'.

Low altitude and many rivers inevitably lead to some flood and waterlogging disasters, which have also affected Xinghua's land. However, the industrious and intelligent people of Xinghua have built raised fields shaped like mounds by digging networked deep ditches or small rivers in the low-lying areas along the river network and piling up the soil. Although artificially made, these raised fields appear irregular and unpredictable; each 'mound' has a different shape and size, with large ones covering two or three mu, and small ones only a few fen or li. It is said to have a history of nearly 800 years. People inside may not see its characteristics, so follow my aerial photography to see this unique farmland.

The mound-shaped land is very obvious. Because of the high terrain and good drainage, the soil is more fertile and loose, and the crops produced are of high quality. This 'turning waste into treasure' raised field agricultural system has become a globally important agricultural cultural heritage and a geographical indication that locals are proud of. So this time, I came to admire Xinghua's Qanduo rapeseed flower sea. Since I'm here, I spent two days enriching this trip with local cuisine and cultural experiences. The specific arrangement is as follows: Day 1: Changzhou – Xinghua (self-driving about 160km), Gongjita Private Home Cuisine (lunch), Xinghua Museum, Old Street, Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence, check into Bishui Dongluo Village Yunduo Homestay. Day 2: Xinghua Qanduo Scenic Area, Lizhong Water Forest Park, Xinghua – Changzhou.

Gongjita Private Home Cuisine – Taste 'Banqiao Banquet'

As mentioned above, Xinghua is a famous 'land of fish and rice'. At the same time, Xinghua is also a famous historical and cultural city in Jiangsu Province, the hometown of Mr. Zheng Banqiao, the leader of the 'Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou', with profound cultural heritage. On the first day, driving from Changzhou just in time for lunch, I first experienced the city of Xinghua through a 'Banqiao Banquet' with friends. This meal was eaten at Gongjita Private Home Cuisine, No. 118 Yingwu Road, Xinghua city center. The restaurant is decorated in an antique style, with multiple private rooms on several floors, and a large capacity. The 'Banqiao Banquet', as the name suggests, means that all the dishes are related to Zheng Banqiao. It combines local Huaiyang cuisine with local culture, very characteristic of the area.

The dishes were numerous; let me pick one that touched me the most: Mayatou Needle and Thread. Tourists familiar with Mr. Zheng Banqiao know that he had a childhood nickname called Mayatou. Although it sounds strange, Mr. Banqiao did not avoid the name; after becoming famous, he even had a seal as proof. 'Mayatou Needle and Thread' was his modest way of referring to his works as just like needlework. This shows Mr. Banqiao's modesty and low-key personality.

In addition, there were dishes like Orchid Bamboo Stone Painting, Pearl Four Happiness, Banqiao Tofu, etc., each with its own story, which I won't go into detail here. Moreover, the Banqiao Banquet has a very rich variety. Because of different seasons, the ingredients certainly vary, so not all dishes on the menu can be ordered. In other words, if you come at different times of the year, you may taste different 'Banqiao Banquets'.

Xinghua cuisine is typical Huaiyang cuisine, one of the four traditional major cuisines in China, originating from Yangzhou and Huai'an. Xinghua's geographical location is between the two cities; earlier, Taizhou City, where Xinghua is located, was part of Yangzhou, but later they were administratively separated. However, the culture and food are not exactly the same. Since Xinghua is a land of fish and rice, our table was not lacking in aquatic products. For example, snails and river clams are most plump around Qingming Festival, and Xinghua fish balls are sold all over Jiangsu, each one can make your eyebrows drop with freshness.

Fortunately, our group was large enough to have a hearty meal before the formal Xinghua trip. After eating and drinking, we headed to the Xinghua Museum.

Xinghua Museum – Understanding Local History

Jiangsu has a long history and profound cultural heritage; not only provincial museums, but even city museums are very interesting. Xinghua Museum is one of them. It is an AA-level scenic spot, and in my opinion, it is quite unusual. Because it not only includes the city's historical exhibition hall but also two celebrity exhibition halls and several Easter eggs. Let me briefly talk about Xinghua's history. In ancient times, it was called Zhaoyang, also known as Chushui. According to research, human existence in the area can be traced back about 6,000 years, with an excellent ecological environment. At the same time, Xinghua is a place of outstanding people. From the Xianchun period of the Southern Song Dynasty to the Guangxu period of the late Qing Dynasty, 262 people passed the provincial examination, 93 became jinshi (palace examination graduates), and 1 became a zhuangyuan (top scholar), which is outstanding nationwide.

The two celebrity exhibition halls in the museum are for Shi Nai'an, author of one of the Four Great Classical Novels 'Water Margin', and Zheng Banqiao, whom I have been talking about. After a brief visit to the historical exhibition hall, I went straight to the Zheng Banqiao Memorial Hall.

At the entrance, there is a bronze statue with the inscription 'Triple Unique Talent' – Zheng Banqiao. What are the three uniques? They are Zheng Banqiao's poetry, calligraphy, and paintings. Zheng Banqiao's calligraphy uses clerical script mixed with running and regular script, calling it 'six and a half script', known as 'Banqiao style'. His paintings mainly feature orchids, bamboo, and stones. He experienced many ups and downs in his life, saw through the fickleness of the world, and blended all this into his works. The museum houses many authentic works by Mr. Banqiao, up to 33 pieces. Through various displays, text introductions, and objective evaluations from others, I got to know a more real and vivid Mr. Banqiao.

Xinghua Museum is a three-story antique building with white walls, black tiles, and horse-head walls, antique and elegant. But don't rush to leave after the visit. Next to the venue, there is a round door leading to a hidden Easter egg: a unique Jiangnan garden landscape. The garden is called Liyuan Boat Hall, built during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, part of the private garden of Yangzhou wealthy merchant Li Xiaobo. With the guidance of the staff, we also found this place.

The entire building resembles a large ship, with the bow facing west and the stern facing east. There is a long step on the south side of the boat hall, shaped like a gangplank, with corridors on both sides. The whole boat hall looks like a beautifully decorated large ship floating among flowers and trees, very impressive. Why was it built in the shape of a ship? It is said that outside the wall was originally a Qing Dynasty prison, and when prisoners were let out, their shackles often made a clanging sound. Li Xiaobo, as a businessman, was very superstitious about the saying 'poor as a church mouse' (literally 'poor with a clanging sound'), so he built this 'big ship' garden to break the curse.

Not only that, on the square in front of the museum, we saw a very eye-catching pavilion. This area is also the liveliest part of Xinghua city center, surrounded by shops and crowds. Usually, in such a fast-paced place, it's hard for a building to stand out. But this square pavilion with double eaves and upturned corners really has a strong aura, placed alone on the square, making it particularly conspicuous.

From the inscription on the stele in front of the pavilion, I learned that this building is called Sipailou, a local landmark. Speaking of Sipailou, it has a significant history. It was first built in the Ming Dynasty, but was destroyed in modern history. However, the local authorities rebuilt it in 1987, basically keeping the original appearance of the Ming Dynasty pavilion. This shows the locals' deep affection for this pavilion and also reflects its high status.

The pavilion is not just a pavilion; its high status is due to the fact that the interior ceiling is covered with plaques, a total of 47 pieces. These 47 plaques were not hung arbitrarily; they record 74 famous people from Xinghua's history, from the Song Dynasty to the early Republic of China. Each plaque represents one or several local historical celebrities. In other words, each plaque contains the glorious achievements of one or several local celebrities.

These plaques are roughly the same size but vary in color and font. It is said that they were rewritten by more than 40 famous calligraphers nationwide, with high calligraphic value. They are not only cultural relics reflecting Xinghua's history and culture but also treasures of contemporary Chinese calligraphy art. Everyone marveled at them!

From Sipailou, you can walk to Zheng Banqiao's Former Residence. Regarding memories of Zheng Banqiao, I remember when I was in elementary school, there was a folding fan at home with four big characters 'Nande Hutu' (Hard to Be Foolish). At that time, being young and naive, I thought it was very strange because the word 'foolish' is obviously a derogatory term. Who would write a derogatory term so prominently? The signature was Zheng Banqiao, so I remembered the name deeply. Growing up, often overwhelmed by life's pressures, I began to understand the meaning of 'Nande Hutu'. If there are no worries on your mind, it is a beautiful time in the world! Therefore, I was quite looking forward to Zheng Banqiao's former residence, wanting to see what his life scene was like.

Zheng Banqiao was the leader of the 'Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou', known as a 'triple unique' talent in poetry, calligraphy, and painting. Although brilliant, he was poor all his life. He once served as a county magistrate in Shandong and achieved remarkable results. Later, he lived as a guest in Yangzhou, making a living by selling paintings. He would even give paintings to poor people so that they could exchange them for money and food. Such a poor talented man's former residence is also very modest, quite different from the impressive residences of famous people in my impression.

The ticket for the former residence is sold at 10 yuan, very cheap. It is located at No. 7-8 Zhengjia Lane, Dongchengwai, Xinghua City, Jiangsu Province. Facing south, it has two rows, front and back, with three main rooms facing south, plus a gatehouse, a small study, and a kitchen, totaling only six rooms. Even the small study is barely enough for a desk, with no extra space.

Zheng Banqiao loved bamboo, and his paintings mainly featured orchids, bamboo, and stones. Orchids and bamboo can be seen everywhere in the courtyard of the former residence, showing the care of the current management staff. Tourists seeing bamboo can also better remember Mr. Zheng Banqiao. The rustling orchids and bamboo, the quiet courtyard, instantly calm you down.

Spring is the season when hundreds of flowers bloom. In early April, in the former residence, a red flower was particularly pleasing. Behind it was a pavilion. Sitting there gave a feeling of 'stealing half a day of leisure from a busy life'. So this became the last stop for tourists visiting the former residence. We also took turns taking photos there, reluctant to leave.

Overall, the daily utensils and calligraphy reproductions of Zheng Banqiao displayed in the former residence well restore the appearance of his home. That red flower also embellishes the artistic conception of Zheng Banqiao's poem: 'A room is elegant, why need to be large; flowers are fragrant, not many are needed.'

Jiangsu has profound cultural heritage, and many cities have their own old streets. Xinghua Old Street, I thought, would be similar. But unexpectedly, the beginning and end left a deep impression on me.

Xinghua Old Street is not particularly commercialized and looks very low-key. But it is a Ming and Qing dynasty thoroughfare, anciently named Tongtai. The streets are very narrow, barely allowing two electric bikes to pass side by side. The shops along the street sell labor supplies, tools, and other daily necessities, hardly related to tourism. Occasionally, there are alleys branching off, with residential houses inside.

The seemingly ordinary street has the best viewing spots at the beginning and end. At the corner at the beginning, there is an old house with a plaque reading 'Shangchi Zhai'. This is a traditional Chinese medicine shop that opened in the 60th year of Kangxi's reign (1721) and was renovated in the 21st year of the Republic of China (1932). After 299 years, it still engages in the processing and sale of Chinese herbal medicines.

Usually, Shangchi Zhai is the first photo spot for tourists visiting Xinghua Old Street. I went inside and saw that the shop has a front-shop-back-workshop layout, with two floors. The room was filled with a faint smell of Chinese medicine. An old master was skillfully preparing prescriptions. Besides tourists, there were also some local residents buying medicine, carefully selecting.

As early as 2013, Shangchi Zhai was announced as a national key cultural relic protection unit due to its long history. Similarly, the Zhuangyuan Archway at the end is also a protected cultural relic. In ancient times, those who could erect an archway were extraordinary. It was built to honor Li Chunfang, a native of Xinghua who became the top scholar in the 26th year of Jiajing's reign (1547). The archway was also built in the same year, at the place where he studied in his early years. It is also worth paying respects.

Bishui Dongluo – The Former 'Venice of the East'

As dusk fell, we needed a place to stay. Through a friend's introduction, we stayed in a beautiful village named Bishui Dongluo. This village has an excellent geographical location, between Xinghua's two flagship scenic spots – Qanduo Scenic Area and Lizhong Water Forest Park, away from the congested urban traffic, making travel very convenient. Moreover, the 'Rainbow Road' between the two scenic spots is also a key tourism landscape avenue built by Xinghua tourism. I couldn't help but roll down the car window while driving.

Bishui Dongluo is actually Dongluo Village, Ganggu Township, Xinghua. The reason why 'Bishui' (clear water) is added, in my opinion, is first because the village is indeed inseparable from water; second, giving such a poetic name shows the sincerity of local tourism development. There is only one homestay in the village where you can book accommodation. It is built along the river, sleeping with the sound of water, away from the honking of cars, very peaceful.

The rooms are decorated in an original wood tone, closer to nature. Pushing open the balcony, you can reach the river. The homestay also has its own small pier. If tourists need, they can rent small boats to cruise among the raised fields.

After settling into the homestay, everyone strolled around the village. The village is quite large, but walking along the riverbank makes it easy not to get lost. There are many murals in the village, depicting the labor and harvest scenes of this land of fish and rice during the 24 solar terms. If the weather is good, standing on a small bridge, you can encounter a beautiful sunset. This is not a well-known scenic spot, but every scene is picturesque.

At the core of the village, there is a folk exhibition hall called 'Dongluo Qiushi'. Before visiting, I thought it would just introduce the development of Dongluo Village and display some nostalgic old objects, praising the increasingly beautiful life. After all, such venues are common in many tourist-oriented villages in Jiangsu. However, during the visit, a few old photos left a special impression on me...

These old photos probably reflect local life in the middle of the last century. Villagers used boats to transport grain and travel... It wasn't until May 15, 1956, that the Xingyou Highway was opened to traffic. That is to say, Xinghua in the 1950s was a veritable 'Venice of the East'. Every household traveled by boat and lived by water. According to the elderly in the village, they used to row boats to Taizhou. Of course, with the highway, travel time and transportation costs improved, thanks to social development. I couldn't help but applaud today's happy life!

The crops grown on Xinghua's raised fields are of high quality, but words are not enough! On the night we stayed in Bishui Dongluo, we had dinner in the village's communal dining hall. This dining hall is open to all villagers and tourists. If a family has a wedding or funeral, they hold it here. It's large and impressive. It is next to the former village auditorium, opposite a people's stage, in the very center of the village.

Most of the dishes were made from fresh ingredients from the lake, cheap and delicious. Fish and shrimp were standard; river clams and snails during the Qingming Festival are at their plumpest, so we had to order a plate of each. There were also classic home-style braised pork, scrambled eggs, etc., making a nice farmhouse banquet. Compared to authentic Huaiyang cuisine, the biggest feature of farmhouse cooking is the heavier use of seasonings. What do you think such dishes consume the most? Right, rice! Almost everyone devoured two or three bowls. That might also be related to being very tired during the day.

More importantly, Xinghua rice is really delicious. After two days of travel, I was convinced. Back home, I ordered 20 jin of rice from Xinghua Rice flagship store on Taobao. Maybe that's the charm of travel?

Qanduo Rapeseed Flower Sea – Golden Eight Trigrams Array

On the second day, after breakfast, we headed straight to Qanduo Scenic Area. Many tourists from other places come directly to Qanduo to experience the raised fields and flower sea.

Arriving at Qanduo, we bought tickets and entered. Standing on the viewing platform, I was shocked by the beautiful scenery! I didn't immediately fly my drone; instead, I chose to take a boat first to get up close to the raised fields and flower sea. Perhaps this way I could better understand and respect the wisdom of 'raised fields'. Moreover, the dock where the boat arrives is also in the core area of the scenic spot, offering better views.

The ticket for Qanduo is 50 yuan, and the boat ride is also 50 yuan. Floating on the water, it felt like entering a maze, with waterways crisscrossing on both sides. I was glad I took the boat; otherwise, I would surely get lost in the vast waters... For local farmers, the small rivers between the raised fields are inconvenient to walk, but boats are second nature to them, essential for daily life. The tourist boats are comfortable sightseeing electric boats with sealed roofs and panoramic glass, very pleasant.

Of course, the highlight for me at Qanduo was aerial photography. So as soon as I got off the boat at the dock, I couldn't wait to take out my drone and fly it. The scenic area is very open, with no tall buildings or high-voltage wires, easy for beginners to operate, let alone experienced drone pilots like me. When the drone ascended to about 200 meters, looking down at the Qanduo flower sea had a different artistic conception. Legend says this was an ancient battlefield during the Song-Jin war, where Yue Fei resisted foreign invaders. But these irregular patterns reminded me of the Eight Gates Gold Lock Array from the Three Kingdoms. If this were really a Three Kingdoms battlefield, I'm afraid the winner would be the Eastern Wu navy, just like at Red Cliffs. And Xinghua was originally the territory of Wu.

Aerial shots are certainly stunning! But most tourists still don't have drones. However, no worries. The considerate Qanduo Scenic Area has set up observation towers or pavilions at several important viewpoints. Tourists can easily climb up to enjoy the flowers from a high angle. Although not as rich as a drone's perspective, it is impressive enough. About 5 years ago, I saw a promotional photo of this place, which made me remember the name Xinghua.

Although it is raised fields, you still need to take a boat. But at the core of Qanduo, you can walk into the flower sea and immerse yourself in this romantic environment. The scenic area has built wooden walkways on the raised fields, connected by wooden bridges between mounds. On the return, tourists don't need to take a boat; they can walk back to the entrance. Hiding yourself among the flowers and taking a beautiful photo is an experience not to be missed at Qanduo. After all, there are no tall buildings as a background, so the photos are clean and highlight the person.

Such a magical raised field creates a magical scenic area. The rapeseed flower season is only about 20-30 days. If you miss it, you have to wait another year!

Lizhong Water Forest Park – Bird Watching and Flower Appreciation

The last scenic spot of the trip was Lizhong Water Forest Park. Apart from Qanduo rapeseed, it is the most famous scenic spot in Xinghua. Qanduo is heavily seasonally limited, but Lizhong Water Forest Park is suitable for all seasons, a true must-visit local spot.

Xinghua is a 'land of fish and rice', in my opinion like a water city. Tourist attractions are certainly inseparable from water, so even the forest park is a water forest park. Can forests grow on water? The first thing that comes to mind is metasequoia, yes! The park is planted entirely with pond cypress and metasequoia, trees that adapt to water growth. These trees were not grown in a day; they were planted in the early 1980s. To rationally develop and utilize wasteland resources, local cadres and masses turned this wasteland into strips of ridges, quite in line with Xinghua's 'raised field' style.

These trees are now over 30 years old, approaching 40! Even older than me by a few years. They grow vigorously, tall and lush. At the entrance, you can see the tall treetops, and occasionally a few large birds fly by, making croaking sounds.

Entering the forest, the bird calls became more intense. Looking up, although the number of birds doesn't block out the sky, wherever you look, you won't miss them. Looking closely, they were building new nests, carrying small twigs in their mouths. Some were even paired up, working together. I guessed they were newlyweds?

According to relevant statistics in the park, Lizhong Water Forest Park has a wide variety of birds, including egrets, herons, black storks, black cuckoos, magpies, and nearly a hundred species. The number is astonishing! Normally there are about 60,000 birds, up to over 100,000. Whether in species or quantity, it is extremely rare in the entire East China region and even nationwide. Therefore, it is regarded by photography enthusiasts as 'East China's bird-watching paradise'.

So, I prepared thoroughly before coming to Lizhong. I brought my longest lens, a 70-200mm. That's enough for general photography, but to capture more vivid and detailed bird photos (photographers call it 'birding', not shooting), often a 600mm lens is needed. Most such photography enthusiasts are older 'old masters'. Young enthusiasts like me have a hard time being patient, not to mention the financial ability to upgrade equipment, haha!

Since it is a water forest park, taking a boat is also an experience not to be missed. The boats in the park are rafts made of bundled trees, steered by a staff member holding a long bamboo pole. Other tourists sit evenly on small stools on the raft to maintain balance.

Taking a boat here felt like a spiritual experience of emptying the mind. The raft has no mechanical power, so it doesn't go fast, nor does it have loud noise. After the raft turns into the dense forest, all around are birdsong, comparable to surround-sound HiFi quality, very healing. However, one thing must be guarded against: droppings from above. Maybe it's a way for birds to prevent humans from entering their territory, or maybe just a biological need. Anyway, the probability of tourists being hit is quite high.

So in Lizhong Water Forest Park, you will see that boat rowers usually wear a wide-brimmed straw hat, and thoughtful tourists bring an umbrella even on sunny days.

Spring is the season for flower viewing. In early April, the Erythronium japonicum in Lizhong Water Forest Park was in full bloom. Why does Erythronium japonicum bloom from April to May and bear fruit from May to June? I'm not entirely sure, but don't be fooled by its name; it doesn't bloom only in February. Erythronium japonicum is not very tall, with light purple flowers, very beautiful.

It is worth mentioning that the scenic area thoughtfully arranges a 'fog forest' in the morning and afternoon. It uses purified groundwater, atomized and sprayed through technological devices to create a landscape effect. We often see this effect in movies, but it's not common in parks. At the scheduled time, the fog forest area attracted most of the park's visitors, all eager to take photos. The Erythronium japonicum in the mist looked like a fairyland.

After finishing Lizhong Water Forest Park, the Xinghua trip ended. The scenery, cuisine, and culture were all unforgettable, one more than the other!