"Life Is Worth It" — A Food Journey in Taizhou
Over 700 years ago, the famous Italian traveler Marco Polo, when visiting Taizhou, remarked: "The city of Taizhou is not large, but it is abundant with all kinds of worldly happiness." So I came to Taizhou, seeking the city's happiness in the autumn breeze, and here it told me: "Life is worth it."
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou, known as the City of Phoenix, has been a land of auspiciousness and tranquility for thousands of years. The Fengcheng River, which flows through the city, endows it with aquatic charm, making water the city's character and soul. Taoyuan, located by the Fengcheng River, becomes the gateway to explore the city's essence.
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
In early autumn, Taoyuan features a clear sky, light clouds, and pristine autumn waters. Though the season has paled the departing faces of peach blossoms, the scene of ten-li peach petals softly fluttering in the spring breeze has lingered as a gentle longing in my heart. I think next year, I will come again to see spring return to Taoyuan, with peach blossoms in full bloom, their fragrance permeating my soul.
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan in Spring / Photo by Qinyi
Strolling along the path between Taoyuan and the Fengcheng River, you can see the Wanghai Tower, known as "the first tower in Jianghuai," standing on the opposite bank. Wanghai Tower was first built in the Song Dynasty, and back then, ascending it allowed one to see the vast expanse of the sea with gentle waves. Today, the sea of that time has vanished, leaving only the tower standing between clouds and waters, year after year quietly watching the passage of time, counting each spring and autumn, embodying Taizhou's glorious chapter of "the prefecture established in the Southern Tang, culture flourishing in the Northern Song, famous cities and officials intertwining."
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
In Taoyuan, you must visit Chen An (Chen's Hut). The playwright Kong Shangren once lived here and wrote the enduring masterpiece "The Peach Blossom Fan." Entering through the rear garden of Chen An—Yiyuan—one sees crape myrtle blooming, green bamboos swaying, and koi fish swimming freely under water lilies. Autumn, with its clarity, interprets the time of Chen An: not luxurious, not gaudy, but with an unattainable depth, quietly exuding a mellow fragrance.
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
Leaving Taoyuan, I happened upon a tour group participating in "Thousand People Food Challenge: Big Eaters" on the old street. On long tables were displayed shredded dried tofu, crabs, and various pastries. As soon as the host announced the start, a crowd of diners rushed to savor the food. Seeing their delighted expressions as they ate with gusto in the square, my heart was infected by the tourists' joy—peaceful and beautiful.
As I walked and paused, the evening lights came on. Red lanterns were lit along the old street, their auspicious and joyous red reflecting the contented faces of night strollers, merging with the warm lights of countless households to form the warmest picture of worldly life, spreading the unique autumn happiness of Taizhou.
Taizhou Old Street / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Old Street / Photo by Qinyi
A wonderful day usually begins with taste. The morning meal of Taizhou residents is very particular, elegantly called "morning tea." Every day, from the first glimmer of dawn until late morning, the morning tea shops in Taizhou are always packed.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou morning tea has three treasures: The first treasure is blanched shredded dried tofu. According to official data, the daily consumption of shredded dried tofu in Taizhou is three to four tons, showing how much locals and tourists love it. A small dish of shredded dried tofu is actually a dish of skill: using a special knife, an intangible cultural heritage inheritor "floats" a piece of dried tofu into about 15 thin slices, then cuts them into evenly thick and thin shreds, which are blanched in alkaline water. The timing is crucial: one extra second turns it into paste, one second less makes it hard. The shreds themselves have no taste; they are topped with shredded ginger, coriander, shredded carrot, peanuts, diced pickled mustard, shredded beef, and then a sauce made of soy sauce, water, sugar, salt, etc., adjusted to moderate thickness with a slight sweetness, poured over the shreds to create a dish enjoyed by all ages.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
The second treasure is crab roe buns. High-quality crabs are steamed, the meat and roe are extracted, mixed with selected pork filling until the pork fully absorbs the crab's umami, then placed in steamers and steamed over high heat. Each bite leaves a lingering fragrance on the teeth and an endless aftertaste.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
The third treasure is fish soup noodles, the finale of morning tea. There is a saying: "wide soup, narrow noodles." Eating the noodles is secondary; the main thing is the soup. The fish soup is made by simmering small crucian carp, eel bones, chicken carcasses, and pork leg bones over low heat for three to four hours until thick and milky white. A small amount of cooked noodles is scooped with a slotted spoon into a bowl pre-filled with fish soup, sprinkled with chopped garlic greens or celery bits, and a dash of white pepper. Taking a bite of noodles and a sip of soup, the fresh and rich flavor instantly overwhelms the taste buds.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Among the numerous morning tea shops, there is a century-old establishment called Guyue Lou, well worth a visit. Its patented vegetable soup dumplings are extraordinary. The dumplings look similar to crab roe soup dumplings. To eat them, you first bite a small hole at the top, following the steps: "lift gently, move slowly, open a window first, then drink the soup." Slowly drink the vegetable broth inside; the taste is incomparably delicious.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Many foodies come to Taizhou specifically for Guyue Lou's morning tea, but they may not know that Guyue Lou's lunch and dinner are also distinctive. Those who miss the morning can still enjoy the world-famous Taizhou shredded dried tofu, either boiled or blanched, leaving your teeth fragrant, along with various types of buns.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Here, order a plate of melt-in-your-mouth braised eel with garlic, a plate of authentic braised pig head meat, a large bowl of fish dumplings, a few lion's head meatballs, a plate of shrimp. If you are in a group, add a basket of shrimp-steamed dumplings made from minced freshwater shrimp from the Lixiahe area, a few crab roe buns, and emerald-green shepherd's purse shaomai. That will be an unforgettable taste of a lifetime.
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
Taizhou Cuisine / Photo by Qinyi
When I saw the Dangdang Bookstore on the old street, my tired steps became light. What could be more delightful than resting in a scenic area's bookstore to nourish the soul? It was nearing dinner time; the bookstore was brightly lit, readers were engrossed. By the window, a child with a schoolbag underfoot was reading a book with relish. So I bought a cup of coffee, sat by the window, picked up a book, and began to leaf through the past and present of this city.
Dangdang Bookstore / Photo by Qinyi
Dangdang Bookstore / Photo by Qinyi
Dangdang Bookstore / Photo by Qinyi
Later, as I walked through the alleys and scenic spots of Taizhou, I encountered city bookstores at every turn. These city living rooms, bearing Taizhou's profound culture, deeply made me feel the pursuit of literary learning by the people of Taizhou—"the prefecture established in the Southern Tang, culture flourishing in the Northern Song." This pursuit has taken root in the blood of generations of Taizhou people, nourishing the city's spiritual character.
Dangdang Bookstore / Photo by Qinyi
Life is a series of encounters. If you want to temporarily escape the constraints of steel and concrete and steal a half-day of leisure, come to Taizhou. Here you will find the vast depth of the distant sky, a poetic encounter at the next corner, and the season for dangan crabs, with the three treasures of morning tea waiting for you.
Taizhou Taoyuan / Photo by Qinyi
