Revisiting Taizhou: A Water-Centered Journey into an Uniquely Different Jiangnan Town
An Uniquely Different Jiangnan Town
Taizhou, whose name means 'prosperity and peace of the nation,' is a historically and culturally famous Chinese city that has weathered millennia. It is said that when Marco Polo visited Taizhou, he praised it, saying, 'This city is not large, but it abounds in every kind of worldly happiness.' I had been to Taizhou once before, for a college roommate's wedding, but it was only a brief visit, and I didn't truly explore this Jiangnan town. This time, I returned and delved into every corner of Taizhou, getting to know a uniquely different Taizhou. I recall that in the past, to get to Taizhou, there were no direct high-speed trains, only direct buses. But this year, Shanghai opened a direct high-speed train service to Taizhou, taking just two hours to reach Taizhou directly, saving over an hour compared to the bus. Nowadays, tourism in Taizhou is increasingly developed, and there is even a holiday tourist bus route for visitors, passing through Willow Garden—Wanghai Tower—Plum Garden—Autumn Snow Lake—Pastoral Song—Qinhu Scenic Area—Qintong Ancient Town. So this time, let me take a good look at what charms Taizhou has to offer.
For those of you working late nights in the city, is there ever a moment when you feel you can’t breathe, wanting to escape this environment filled with exhaust fumes and PM2.5? Many people living in big cities, come the weekend, want to leave the city and go to a place closer to nature to relax both body and mind. In the Yangtze River Delta, where first-tier cities are concentrated, there are many excellent rural areas that allow people to step away from the fast pace of life and feel the fresh scent of nature.
Jiangsu, part of the Yangtze River Delta, has the most 5A-rated scenic spots in the country. Every county-level city in 'bulk Jiangsu' can offer considerable tourism resources. This time, when I came to Taizhou, I discovered a place like a verdant wonderland: Li Zhong Water Forest, located in Li Zhong Town, Xinghua, not far from the famous Xinghua rape flower scenic area.
Li Zhong Water Forest Park is the largest man-made ecological forest in Jiangsu Province and also the first 4A-rated scenic spot in Xinghua, Taizhou. As soon as I entered the park, I could see towering metasequoia trees on both sides enveloping me entirely. In this natural setting, taking deep breaths, the air was the freshest. This place is called an 'oxygen bar' for city dwellers returning to nature for relaxation. Everyone who comes here comes for recuperation, leisure, and to enjoy the gifts of nature.
Li Zhong Water Forest covers 2,000 mu, with forest area of over 1,050 mu and water surface area of over 950 mu, almost a one-to-one ratio between land forest and water forest. In this vast man-made wetland forest park, more than 100,000 metasequoia and pond cypress trees are planted, tall and straight, looking like a green velvet carpet from above.
The average temperature here is around 25°C, with lush trees and a mild climate. Strolling through the water forest park and breathing in the forest oxygen bar, one can't help but feel relaxed and happy. Standing by the riverbank, looking into the depths of the metasequoia forest, the end seemed to have a kind of magic, drawing me to explore inside.
Just strolling along the bank among the trees wasn't enough. Taking a raft and floating through Li Zhong Water Forest is the real way to appreciate what it means to have water among the trees and birds among the trees. Each bamboo raft can hold up to 12 people, and they are the most primitive kind, with the boatman standing at the back using a bamboo pole to paddle. The raft drifted and swayed, carrying me into this mysterious water forest.
As the boat entered deeper into the forest, the metasequoia reflected on the lake's surface, as if entering a fairy forest—it was simply Taizhou's version of a verdant wonderland. Everywhere was green, breathing freely in the forest oxygen bar, as if my lungs were being cleansed anew. Taking a boat ride through Li Zhong Water Forest is the best choice, allowing you to get closer to this metasequoia forest growing from beneath the water.
Li Zhong Water Forest also features a performance of wild duck release, a unique spectacle in China. At a command, hundreds of wild ducks fly into the sky, a truly magnificent scene. However, when I went, there were only four or five ducks, but it still highlighted the vitality of the water forest. In the water forest, I could be a quiet, forest-style girl.
The water forest is mainly composed of metasequoia, with egrets flying and darting among the trees. The dynamic combination of forest and animals gives a very refreshing feeling. Since it is a water forest, the water system is naturally abundant, and the water town scenery makes this a popular check-in spot in Jiangsu. With many trees and much water, it also attracts many wild animals; at its peak, there were over 60,000 birds in the forest.
Fresh air, comfortable temperatures, and little noise—that is the charm of Li Zhong Water Forest. People feel relaxed and relieved of stress in the forest, and the natural sounds of the forest provide aesthetic enjoyment. So, have you been to this lush water forest in Taizhou? Do you like such an environment?
Ticket: Adult ticket + raft: 80 yuan. Transportation: From Xinghua Bus Station, take a bus bound for Li Zhong, fare 6-7 yuan, travel time about 30-40 minutes.
In Xinghua, there is a very idyllic scene: Bishui Dongluo (Clear Water East Luo). Dongluo Village, one of the first 45 pilot villages for characteristic rural construction in the province, has underground pipelines, waterside platforms, ancient architecture, and clear river water.
Dongluo Village is located between the Qianduo Rape Flower Scenic Area and Li Zhong Water Forest Scenic Area. The main entrance gate, set against green bamboo, the square and paths made of stone and old bricks, the well-arranged waterside platforms and docks… all present an ecological scene of Bishui Dongluo.
Reed marshes sway, looking very beautiful against the setting sun—I couldn't resist taking photos.
The village auditorium of Dongluo Village was converted from an old temple, originally built in 1953, full of a sense of history. Such old structures used to exist in every village, but it is rare to find one as well-preserved as in Dongluo Village.
Today, Dongluo Village has been revitalized. Some stylish guesthouses have been established here, hidden in lush nature.
The terrace of the guesthouse faces the lake, with a large reed marsh peeking out. The sunset view is absolutely stunning.
From an aerial perspective, several natural hamlets of Dongluo are built around Pingwang Lake, nestled on elevated fields, with dense waterways, crisscrossed by ridges and ditches—a typical feature of Lixiahe water villages, with outstanding ecological characteristics.
In Taizhou, when you want to relax in the evening, instead of getting a foot massage, you might go to Fengcheng River to see Taizhou's most beautiful night scenery. Fengcheng River is like Taizhou's mother river. The best time to visit Fengcheng River is at night, and the best way is to take a painted pleasure boat, because from the shore you might not see much; only by boat can you discover the hidden wonders. A night cruise on Fengcheng River is a must-not-miss experience when you come to Taizhou.
Taizhou was once called 'Water Paradise, Night Tour City.' Most of Taizhou's attractions are strung together by Fengcheng River, like a necklace encircling Taizhou city, linking more than 30 scenic spots along the river, encompassing four major cultural features of Taizhou: history, opera, folk customs, and commerce. Water surrounds the city, scenery connects by water, and as water flows, the views change. The tour boats, also called 'painted boats' due to their ornate decorations, allow you to enjoy Taizhou's water, road, and bridge landscapes along the way.
Entering late autumn, the evening temperature is a bit low, so you need to dress warmly for the boat ride. In the cabin, you can admire the night scenery on both sides. As the boat passes under bridges, they are adorned with lights, like maidens fresh from bathing, lying leisurely across Fengcheng River.
Famous towers and gardens along the river recede in ripples. Along the thousand-year-old ancient city river, you can both see the majestic night view of Wanghai Tower, experience the charming scenery of Sanshui Bay, and also admire the exquisite reliefs on Yingchun Bridge, as well as experience the warmth of Night Peach Garden.
Along the way, you can also enjoy performances of Kunqu opera 'The Peach Blossom Fan' on the shore. Watching a performance from a boat for the first time was an unusual experience. You see, the stone archway of Fengcheng River Scenic Area was once the performance venue for 'The Peach Blossom Fan.' While appreciating Kunqu opera, you can fully experience the folk customs of old Taizhou and the charm of Suzhong culture.
Floating on Fengcheng River, surrounded by night lights and ancient buildings on both sides, enjoying the beauty of the night, makes people even more reluctant to leave. So Taizhou's night is this beautiful.
'During the day, skin wraps water; at night, water wraps skin.' This saying is often heard in Taizhou. 'Skin wraps water' refers to morning tea. Because Taizhou is close to Yangzhou, Taizhou's morning tea shares similarities with Yangzhou's morning tea. As morning tea culture flourishes, Taizhou has incorporated it into its city's food identity. The first thing Taizhou people do after getting up is to go to a time-honored teahouse and order baskets of dim sum to start a vibrant day.
Taizhou people don't take morning tea lightly; they go to well-known local teahouses, places where we would usually go for lunch or dinner, and sit leisurely with family and friends to enjoy morning tea. For them, morning tea is not just about filling the stomach; it's an indispensable pastime in life. In Taizhou, people say that to have Taizhou morning tea, you should go to Old Street Gu Yue Lou. Gu Yue Lou is the most famous place for morning tea in Taizhou, named after its founder, whose surname is Hu (古月 combining to form 'Hu'). The facade is grand, decorated in an antique and elegant style. Inside the hall, it's bustling with noise, and every seat is taken—Taizhou's morning tea culture truly lives up to its reputation.
A cup of tea, a serving of blanched dried tofu shreds, a basket of crab roe buns, plus a bowl of fish soup noodles—that's the classic Taizhou morning tea combination: one tea, three snacks, one noodle—generous and nutritious. In Taizhou, having morning tea is an art and a lifestyle. Taizhou's morning tea culture has a long history, with fresh ingredients and a wide variety. Many food lovers come to Taizhou specifically for the morning tea. Seeing these stacks of bamboo steamers piled high is enough to show how abundant it is.
The most classic dish in Taizhou morning tea is blanched dried tofu shreds, which is the first dish served. This small plate of blanched dried tofu shreds is a traditional delicacy of the Yangzhou-Taizhou region. It seems simple, but it requires excellent knife skills from the chef. Taizhou's blanched dried tofu shreds are made from dried tofu, mixed with vinegar, smooth and tender, and are one of the most essential items in Taizhou morning tea.
Besides blanched dried tofu shreds, there is also boiled dried tofu shreds. The difference is that boiled ones are in soup, while blanched ones are mixed. The boiled dried tofu shreds are also generous, containing pickled meat, mushrooms, shrimp, wood ear mushrooms, and greens, making it almost a bowl of soup. The soup dried tofu shreds are softer, and the soup is made from bone broth, extremely delicious.
Next are the 'three snacks': buns, steamed dumplings, and siu mai. Among the three buns, the crab roe bun is the most popular and delicious snack in Taizhou morning tea. The golden crab roe seeps through the dough and flows outside the bun, making it mouth-watering. Tear open the crab roe bun, and you'll see it full of crab roe and crab meat. One bite fills your mouth with the aroma of crab roe, and the meat is substantial. Among the many snacks on the table, the crab roe buns are the first to be 'eliminated.'
Taizhou people make morning tea as if crafting a work of art. The emerald siu mai (vegetable siu mai) is exquisitely made. Made with vegetables, the tips reveal green filling, thus called 'emerald.' Thin-skinned with generous filling, it has a slightly bitter taste that helps cut the greasiness of the crab roe buns.
Seedling vegetable buns: In Jiangsu and Zhejiang, people love eating clover; in Taizhou, it's called seedling vegetable. Shanghainese often have wine-flavored clover, while Taizhou people steam a basket of seedling vegetable buns. A hint of green shows through the bun pleats. One vegetarian bun fills you up to thirty or forty percent.
Another specialty of the 'three snacks' is shrimp steamed dumplings, also a classic Taizhou snack. They come to the table steaming hot, several crescent-shaped dumplings lying in the steamer basket with very even pleats. Each dumpling has thin skin, generous filling, and a rich broth; the shrimp is bouncy, and one bite leaves a savory juice lingering between your lips and teeth.
Among Taizhou morning tea buns, soup buns are also a must-try. We ordered vegetable soup buns. The soup is completely wrapped by the dough, and you can faintly see the dark green broth from the outside. Eating soup buns is a test of skill; carefully bite a small hole, then suck the soup through the opening. The rich flavor of vegetables and mushrooms, with a hint of crab roe, is savory but not greasy. What I'm curious about, though, is how the vegetable soup is made into the bun?
Another essential item is fish soup noodles. An authentic Taizhou morning tea always ends with a bowl of fish soup noodles. The fish soup is made from eel bones, pork bones, wild crucian carp, etc., simmered over low heat, then used to cook the noodles. The soup is relatively mild, and you can sprinkle pepper to bring out the umami. Only after finishing this bowl of fish soup noodles is the meal truly complete. So, have you ever had Taizhou morning tea? What's your favorite dim sum from morning tea?
On Taizhou Old Street, there is also a special thatched-hut baked cake shop, which uses the most traditional thatched-hut method to bake cakes. It's a local internet-famous cake shop; locals passing by often take two or three with them.
Taizhou has long been known as 'the flourishing center of Confucian culture, excelling in the Huainan area.' This place gathers many talents and produces many sages. From Taizhou came outstanding representatives of cultural and artistic history such as Shi Naian, Zheng Banqiao, and Mei Lanfang. During my visit, I explored the memorial hall of Mei Lanfang, the master of Chinese Peking opera performance.
Although Mei Lanfang was born in Beijing, his ancestral home is Taizhou. The entire memorial hall is a small garden built in Ming and Qing architectural styles, named after Mr. Mei Lanfang's surname, called Plum Garden. It is now one of the eight scenic spots of Taizhou city.
At the entrance is Mei Lanfang's statue square, exuding an air of pride amid blooming flowers. Entering the historical materials exhibition area, the five exhibition sections—'Plum Blossoms in China,' 'Plum Fragrance Worldwide,' 'Plum Bones Unyielding,' 'Plum Virtue Like Jade,' and 'Plum Roots in Taizhou'—condensed and refined Mei Lanfang's glorious life belonging to China, the world, and Taizhou.
'A fine sword is sharpened from grinding; plum blossoms' fragrance comes from bitter cold.' The path for Mei Lanfang to climb the peak of Chinese opera performance art was not smooth. It was because of his diligent practice that he achieved fame at a young age.
The memorial hall also uses modern multimedia means such as sound, light, electricity, and video to display Mr. Mei's cultural relics, pictures, artifacts, and documents. A black-and-white video clip allows us moderns to once again appreciate Mei Lanfang's beautiful singing.
Mei Lanfang was skilled in performing female roles (dan). This white marble statue is his portrayal in 'Farewell My Concubine.'
Usually, in any country, culture governs and determines art. But in Mei Lanfang's case, art acts upon culture; not only did it compensate for cultural deficiencies, but it also radiated a unique brilliance.
Besides his high attainment in Peking opera, Mei Lanfang was also a very patriotic person. Due to ideological work done by Zhou Enlai, Mei Lanfang decided to go to Japan three times for performances to fulfill his mission. He said the performances were for communicating emotions and promoting the restoration of diplomatic relations between the two countries, reflecting his patriotic feelings and his blood connection to Taizhou.
Behind the scenic area, there is a replica ancient stage. When former leaders visited the renovated Mei Lanfang Memorial Hall, they once ascended this replica stage and sang Peking opera classic pieces with local opera fans.
There are countless classical gardens in Jiangnan, but Jiangsu is particularly rich in them. Many gardens in Jiangsu can be considered classic representatives of China's classical gardens, gathering the diligence and wisdom of many skilled craftsmen in ancient times. Among the famous ones is Suzhou's Humble Administrator's Garden. In Taizhou, there is also a private garden with considerable reputation and deep historical heritage—Qiao Garden.
Qiao Garden has a long history; its construction can be traced back to the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty. Over the following 400-plus years, the scope of Qiao Garden changed many times, and it underwent several periods of prosperity and decline, changing owners several times. After four generations of owners, it was finally named after the last owner's surname.
Qiao Garden is a private garden built during the Ming Dynasty. Its history can be described as very turbulent. Over 400 years, it changed hands many times, and at its most fallen state, it was almost abandoned.
The entire Qiao Garden is divided into two parts. The core scenic spots retain their original appearance; buildings like Shaanxiang Caotang (Mountain Echo Thatched Hall) have been preserved, along with many auxiliary facilities fairly intact. Courtyards connect them, including Jiaoyu Xuan, Erfen Zhu Wu (Two-Bamboo House), and other architectural sites. Bamboo-related elements are visible everywhere in the garden. Under the shelter of bamboo groves, Qiao Garden appears even more poetic and picturesque.
When I was there, I could experience how wonderful it is to have 'one step, one view; changing steps, changing views.' Though Qiao Garden is small, far smaller than the Humble Administrator's Garden, it has everything necessary. Both in layout and scenery, it is extremely exquisite, fully showcasing the characteristics of Jiangnan gardens.
Shaanxiang Caotang is the main hall of Qiao Garden, three bays wide, with a single-eave Xieshan (gable and hip) roof with round ridge, surrounded by a corridor. In front of the hall, an old plum tree and an ancient osmanthus tree are planted, blooming with flowers in winter and autumn, filling the air with fragrance. Inside the hall hangs a plaque with the name 'Sanfeng Yuan' (Three Peaks Garden). Sanfeng Yuan was the predecessor of Qiao Garden. The owner at that time, during the Jiaqing period, obtained three stalagmites and placed them in the garden, renaming it Three Peaks Garden.
Among the buildings in Qiao Garden, arched gates are the most common, also called moon gate or moon hole gate. Generally, there are no pavilions, and sometimes gates are connected one after another, giving a classical beauty when viewed from a distance. Although there are many courtyards here, each one is independent, with moon gates outside. Entering, you see houses surrounded by greenery.
Generations of owners painstakingly built, and generations of craftsmen meticulously carved, achieving Qiao Garden's reputation as the 'First Garden of Huaihe River's Left Area.' Strolling among ancient rocks and old trees, wandering amid Ming and Qing scenery, and exploring the exquisite designs of past owners is also a form of enjoyment.
Taizhou originally had no sea, but it has a Wanghai Tower (Sea-Viewing Tower), located by the Fengcheng River. It is a landmark building of Taizhou, known as the First Tower of Jianghuai, standing by the Fengcheng River, visible at a glance.
Wanghai Tower was first built in the second year of Shaoding in the Southern Song Dynasty. Its fate, like Qiao Garden's, was very rough—many times destroyed and rebuilt, mostly destroyed by war and rebuilt during prosperous times. It is said that when it was rebuilt during the Kangxi period, it started with heavy rain and thunder, then cleared to reveal cranes soaring. The people considered it a great omen, so they respected Wanghai Tower even more.
The current Wanghai Tower, over 30 meters high, still retains the architectural style of the Song Dynasty. It has a three-story circular corridor on the exterior, with the main colors being chestnut brown and dark gray, simple and elegant.
The design of the new Wanghai Tower continues the historical architectural style, but its specific form is taller and more magnificent than historical records, with smooth and graceful lines, elegant and refined expression, maintaining harmony with existing ancient buildings in Taizhou. The Wanghai Tower we see today is largely a reconstruction.
Entering inside Wanghai Tower, you can see golden plaques recording the history of its changes and rises and falls.
To overlook the entire scenery of Fengcheng River, climbing Wanghai Tower is the best spot, offering a panoramic view of Fengcheng River's beautiful landscape. Looking back, as history's wheel turned and dynasties changed, many historical figures also ascended this tower, such as locals Shi Naian, Zheng Banqiao, Mei Lanfang, and literati from various periods, who liked to climb high to gaze at Fengcheng River and compose poems.
On the other side of Fengcheng River stands a Western-style pointed church. This city truly blends Chinese and Western elements. At first glance, this church resembles the famous internet-famous church in Qingdao.
Taizhou is a city with rich historical and cultural heritage, so you can find many museums in every corner to interpret Taizhou's past and present. The first one I visited was the Salt Tax Museum, located by the ancient salt canal of Taizhou.
The Salt Tax Museum was once the dock for salt storage ships in ancient Taizhou. Speaking of salt tax culture, it has a long-standing relationship with Taizhou. Taizhou is a historical and cultural city that emerged from salt and thrived on taxes, known nationwide as 'abundant in red millet and salt benefits,' and is one of the important birthplaces of tax culture in China.
According to existing historical records, since Liu Bang, Emperor Gaozu of Han, allowed his nephew Liu Pi, Prince of Wu, to build Hailing granaries and coastal salt fields, Taizhou's salt tax culture can be traced back to 195 BC, over 2,200 years ago.
During the Tang and Song dynasties, as the main production area for Chinese salt tax, Taizhou's annual salt tax output exceeded half of the country's, hence the saying 'Salt tax once accounted for half of the world.' Among the salt industries of Huainan and Huaibei, the Huainan salt field centered on Taizhou was the most famous. In the Ming Dynasty, the Lianghuai Salt Transport Commissioner's Office and Salt Transport Inspection Office established in Taizhou ranked first in the country in salt tax revenue. In the Qing Dynasty, Taizhou set up the General Salt Bureau and pioneered likin (a transit tax). At that time, Taizhou prospered due to salt tax; salt ships gathered, and merchants gathered like clouds.
Strolling through the Salt Tax Museum, I learned about the role of salt tax in Taizhou's prosperity and development. The museum's interior is uniquely designed, using intelligent and digital technology combined with sound, light, and electricity to showcase the history of salt tax culture in China. Among them, a salt tax seal dating back 1,000 years is the museum's treasure.
After seeing ancient Taizhou, I moved on to its modern side—the Navy Birthplace Memorial Hall. This is the birthplace of the People's Navy, which is why Taizhou is also known as the 'Birthplace of the Navy, Mother City of Sailors.'
The Memorial Hall of the Birthplace of the Chinese People's Liberation Army Navy is located in Baima Town, Gaogang District, Taizhou. In the square, you can see many naval fighter jets, a magnificent sight. The river-crossing wooden boat in the exhibition hall is the museum's treasure and a popular check-in spot. This wooden boat is a national first-class cultural relic, having participated in the Battle of Crossing the Yangtze River.
Jiangsu is a province with numerous cultural relics and historic sites. There are three carved-bowl buildings (Diaohua Lou) with unique architectural forms in Jiangsu. The most famous are on Dongshan and Xishan in Suzhou, while the third is in Gaogang District, Taizhou, named Kouan Diaohua Lou (Port Carved Tower). It is Taizhou's most famous tourist attraction and another 4A-level scenic spot in Taizhou. Just at the entrance of Diaohua Lou, you can see a golden plaque with four large characters: 'Gu Diao Hua Lou' (Ancient Carved Building). Under the carved beams and painted rafters, there are details of ancient architectural carving everywhere.
Diaohua Lou is essentially a building characterized by wood carving, brick carving, and other carving techniques, with high artistic and ornamental value. Stepping over the high threshold, upon entering, you see a golden plaque above the main hall with the words 'Wenxin Diaolong' (The Literary Mind and the Carving of Dragons). Below the plaque is a beautiful and elegant carved screen depicting a panoramic view of Diaohua Lou. The chairs and tea seats on both sides, from appearance to arrangement, are all meticulously carved.
Kouan Diaohua Lou was first built in the Qing Dynasty and continued in the early Republic of China. The building houses numerous exquisite and auspicious carvings of flowers, birds, fish, insects, animals, figures, and historical stories, all classic works of carving art of that time. Today, besides seeing various exquisite carving techniques, you can also find various small scenic spots, such as ancient houses, Guanlan Pavilion (Wave-Viewing Pavilion), Changhan Pavilion (Carefree Pavilion), Long Corridor, Muyu Boat (Rain-Shelter Boat), and rockeries and ponds everywhere.
Diaohua Lou faces east, consisting of two main buildings (each with five bays and two stories) and side buildings (each with three bays), forming a square building. The builder was a timber merchant surnamed Yao from Kouan Town. Traditionally, houses in the Jianghuai region were built facing south for warmth in winter and coolness in summer and for indoor lighting. But the owner specifically invited a feng shui master to determine the orientation for good business, so eventually, Diaohua Lou was built facing east, with two stories and five bays—quite unique at the time.
Walking into Diaohua Lou feels like entering a Jiangnan classical private garden. Through several garden features like Guanlan Pavilion and Muyu Boat, you can closely appreciate the artistic charm of wood carving, stone carving, and brick carving in central Jiangsu. These carvings are lifelike, giving soul to these Jiangnan buildings. In the garden, there is a very tall tree, a century-old tree that has been protecting this Diaohua Lou since it was planted.
Kouan Diaohua Lou has green bricks and black tiles, high ridges and flying eaves. From a distance, it doesn't look much different from ordinary ancient buildings. But only when you actually step inside and look around do you see that the doors and windows of the main house and side rooms, the corridors on the second floor, the railings, and the eaves all consist of carved components: dragons and phoenixes, fishermen and woodcutters, flowers and birds, fish and insects… a variety of traditional carved patterns make one marvel at the exquisite carving skills of ancient times.
Besides ancient architecture, the Diaohua Lou complex includes one bridge, two streets, three temples, and four houses that form the antique style of the garden. Entering the garden, you are not only impressed by the exquisite carving skills but also attracted by the flowers and trees, rockeries and waterfalls, lake pavilions and bridges. Diaohua Lou is like a small Jiangnan garden; strolling inside, the noise of the city is shut out.
Today's Diaohua Lou has been expanded and restored to regain its former glory. The area is not large, compact and elegant, so you can finish exploring quickly. The main ancient carved building has been newly painted, with clear carvings and patterns, a feast for the eyes. For friends who like carving techniques, it's well worth a visit. So, have you been to Diaohua Lou in Taizhou? What differences do you think it has from the Diaohua Lou in Suzhou?
Diaohua Lou ticket: 40 yuan. Opening hours: Summer 9:00-17:30, Winter 9:00-17:00. Transportation: Self-driving is recommended; take Hailing South Road/Dongfeng South Road/Taizhou Avenue all the way to Gaogang Avenue.
Taizhou's history is truly long-standing. Only by entering it will you discover that it is like an old man, narrating past events bit by bit. The most representative of Taizhou's thousand-year history is the ancient town of Qintong. Perhaps many people can't imagine that as early as 5,000 years ago, there were already humans living here, as Neolithic artifacts and elk antler fossils have been unearthed.
Qintong has a recorded history of over a thousand years, making it a genuine thousand-year ancient town. The most famous feature of the ancient town is this thousand-year-old tea tree, vigorous and powerful, breaking through tiles and beams, still growing endlessly. The base of the tree somewhat resembles a baby, so this ancient tree is also called the 'child-seeking tree'—don't make a mistake in worship!
The characters 'Qin' and 'Tong' both contain the water radical, indicating its inseparable connection with water. Because the ancient town is surrounded by water on all sides, it has the elegant nickname 'Zhouzhuang of Central Jiangsu.' Today, this water-town pearl is rising in status among China's ancient towns.
Qintong Ancient Town is not large, nor crowded. Commerce and scenic spots are completely separated, preserving the living atmosphere of the original residents while offering various quaint small attractions. It clearly is a place with culture.
The ancient town is basically strung together by an old street, including the former residence of a grain merchant, the Water Dragon Bureau (fire station), the Qin Brick and Han Tile Museum, and the Qintong Intangible Heritage Museum. Visiting the attractions requires a separate ticket; a combined ticket is punched at each spot.
Although the attractions are small, they have the advantage of tranquility. Besides the thousand-year-old tree, there are also contracts of indenture from the Qing Dynasty onward, the former residences of three academicians, and a mummy of a Buddhist monk, all worth exploring.
The scale of the ancient town is limited, and the stone-paved roads are narrow. Walking to the back feels like navigating a maze.
Exiting the scenic area, there is a main commercial street, mainly selling local specialties, such as baked cakes, fish balls, fish cakes, shrimp balls, etc. It is said that Qintong baked cakes are quite famous.
The best-selling items here are Huangqiao baked cakes, Jingjiang pork jerky, and Qinhu hairy crabs.
All kinds of snacks fill the streets, wafting enticing aromas, making it hard to resist tasting.
On the old street, many people sell meat floss cakes and fish balls, all freshly made and steaming hot. It turns out that besides Taizhou morning tea, Taizhou's street food is also so exquisite and abundant.
Qinhu hairy crabs: the roe and meat are tender and delicious, the most famous local freshwater delicacy.
Among all provinces in China, Jiangsu has the most 5A-rated scenic spots, with 24 such spots. Many are well-known. Taizhou also has one and only one 5A scenic spot, yet it is very low-key. Many people only learn about this scenic spot when they arrive in Taizhou. But it boasts the most beautiful natural scenery in Jiangsu and is a favorite habitat for animals. Qinhu National Wetland Park is a pearl set in Taizhou.
Located in Jiangyan District, Taizhou, Qinhu National Wetland Park was officially established as a national wetland park in 2011. It is the second national wetland park in China and the first in Jiangsu Province. It lies in the Lixiahe region, one of the three famous low-lying areas in China. Upon entering Qinhu Wetland, the first thing to do is take a boat, as lakes and rivers account for about 37% of the total area of the scenic spot.
Qinhu National Wetland Park is themed 'water, wetland, ecology.' After disembarking, you'll see a wetland science museum shaped like a boat, introducing the components of the various wetlands in Qinhu, mainly divided into three categories: lake wetlands, river wetlands, and marsh wetlands, with three functional zones: wetland conservation area, wetland restoration area, and rational utilization area.
The tour of Qinhu Wetland is like a boat trip. Just after getting off a large boat, you board a small boat. Unlike large boats driven by engines, small boats are more like hand-rowed boats. The boatwomen row the oars back and forth, slowly drifting on Qinhu Lake. Looking around, reeds and aquatic plants stretch endlessly. Crossing Qinhu Lake to reach the wetlands within the lake, the clear water reflects people's figures; fine waves overlap ashore, then slowly recede.
Qinhu Wetland not only has beautiful natural scenery but is also an animal paradise, rich in aquatic life and nationally protected animals, such as elk, red-crowned cranes, Chinese alligators, and other first-class protected animals. On the shore, you can see elk sculptures, but on the boat, it's not easy to see them hidden in the grass.
Small bridges span the lake. Walking through the wetland is also a good choice, but because of the large area, walking takes half a day. The lake ripples with blue waves; the boat sways left and right, creating beautiful ripples. Pleasant bird songs are heard from time to time. Following the birdsong, egrets fly out from the lush forests into the clouds. Sitting at the bow of the boat, you feel as if you are in a bird's paradise.
Disembarking again, I saw another scene of the wetland. The golden gourds in the farming paradise immediately caught my attention. It turns out that Qinhu Wetland is not only natural but also rich in cultural atmosphere, with typical semi-natural farming wetland features. There are many ancient farming tools and facilities here, where visitors can experience the joy of ancient farmers cultivating and irrigating.
In the farming paradise, raised fields are dense, and aquatic plants are abundant. Seedlings shine golden under the setting sun, like a peaceful painting of farmland. This scene gives people who live in the city all year round a sense of comfort different from the noisy city.
In fact, the cultural history of Qinhu Wetland is extremely rich, producing many talents. Its history can be traced back to the Neolithic Age 4,000 to 5,000 years ago. In the Song Dynasty, Yue Fei and Wen Tianxiang fought here. Painter Zheng Banqiao and Yu Youren, a veteran of the Republic of China, also left their writings here, chanting about Qinhu Lake. Every year, the Qintong Boat Festival, one of the national intangible cultural heritages and one of China's top ten folk festivals, takes place, allowing people to get closer to the unique water town folk culture of Jiangnan.
In the small wooden houses, agricultural tools not usually seen await people to experience. You can turn the stone mill for grinding flour; the small milling toys nearby also let you experience the fun of farming. Scarecrows, waterwheels—these products of ancient working people's wisdom are preserved intact in Qinhu Wetland. Besides enjoying the wetland scenery, it is also very educational.
Qinhu Wetland also has abundant recreational activities: an adventure park, elk garden, water park, and even a horse farm. Galloping on horseback amid the raised fields of the wetland probably gives another feeling. No wonder many families with children come here; the rich recreational facilities make the wetland tour more interesting.
The high integrity of the wetland ecosystem provides a good habitat for many animals, especially an ideal place for birds to live, forage, and reproduce. Strolling in the wetland, you can hear bird calls and duck quacks from time to time. Such a relaxing ecological environment makes everyone who enters feel refreshed. Have you been to Qinhu Wetland? Do you know of other wetlands in China that combine nature, animals, and culture?
In Taizhou, you should stay in an antique scholarly-style residence to get the true taste of Taizhou. This time, I stayed at the Shuxiang Shijia (Scholarly Family) in Daohe Block. It's a guesthouse that gives me a sense of the scholarly student from its name. Hidden in an old house in the bustling city, opening the door reveals a completely different world.
In the lobby where I checked in, there was a guzheng (Chinese zither), showing that the owner loves classical music. The addition of musical instruments adds artistic flair to the guesthouse.
I stayed in a building arranged like a siheyuan (courtyard house), with three rooms in each building sharing a living room. The decoration of the living room is also very Chinese classical style, perfect for two families with children to come together.
The room has many smart devices, such as a robot on the desk, a smart mirror, a smart trash can, etc.—a very smart room.
The public area of Shuxiang Shijia is also so charming. I felt like I had stumbled into a wealthy family. This is the first guesthouse I've seen that takes Chinese classical style to such an extreme.
At night, the Daohe Block is brightly lit, reflected in the lake, absolutely beautiful. When the lights come on, Daohe Block transforms into a different look. Lanterns under the eaves flutter in the wind, adding a unique charm to the ancient buildings on both banks. Walking under the eaves, you can feel the true tranquility of the Jiangnan water town. In the lit households on both sides, people sip wine, listen to cicadas, and fall asleep accompanied by clear waves and lights.
Day 1: Li Zhong Water Forest - Bishui Dongluo - Night Cruise on Fengcheng River
Day 2: Taizhou Morning Tea - Mei Lanfang Memorial Hall - Qiao Garden - Wanghai Tower - Salt Tax Museum - Diaohua Lou
Day 3: Daohe Block - Navy Birthplace Memorial Hall - Qintong Ancient Town - Qinhu National Wetland Park
Transportation: Shanghai now has a direct high-speed train to Taizhou, no need to transfer in Yangzhou anymore. A one-way ticket is just over 100 yuan.
A three-day, two-night in-depth tour of Taizhou—I didn't expect it to be so fulfilling. This small city in central Jiangsu contains far more history than I imagined. One song of Fengcheng River sings the prosperous heyday of water-town Taizhou. For thousands of years, Taizhou has retained its original appearance. On this native land, it has nurtured the water-town people endlessly. Nightly revelry and prosperity continue.
