Encountering Xinghua in Spring, Like Meeting You in a Dream, My Heart Blooms

The ancients said: 'The slow sun makes the land more beautiful, the spring breeze carries the fragrance of flowers and grass. The mud thaws, swallows fly; the sand is warm, mandarin ducks sleep.'

The earth awakens, another spring arrives. In spring, a hundred flowers bloom, and flower viewing becomes everyone's hobby. Xinghua, long heard of, has become the most tender and watery place in northern Jiangsu. The well-known thousand-island rapeseed flowers in the water, the purple February orchids in the Lizhong Forest... all are unforgettable. For Xinghua, forgive my ignorance; I only later learned that it is a county-level city under Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province.

Although I grew up among rapeseed flowers, every spring when I see vast fields of blooming rapeseed, I still become as happy as a free little bee, shuttling among the green and yellow. From March to early April each year, it is the world of rapeseed flowers. Xinghua has one of the four major flower seas—the thousand-island water rapeseed flower sea, a place I had long been yearning to visit.

Staying home for too long always brings some negative energy. It seems only travel can clear my mind. On this warm spring day with blooming flowers, I had been planning when to go to Xinghua to see the thousand-island rapeseed flowers. As I thought and thought, an opportunity arose. So I always believe that if you truly desire something, it will come true one day.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Xinghua City Museum – Jindongmen Old Street – Zheng Banqiao’s Former Residence – Thousand-Island Rapeseed Flower Scenic Area – Bishui Dongluo – Village Dining Hall

Day 2: Morning tea at Langting Hotel – Shijiaqiao Village – Shuirun Liuze – Lizhong Water Forest

First Stop: Xinghua City Museum

I have visited many museums, but this is the first time I’ve seen a three-story antique-style building with white walls, black tiles, and horse-head walls. I have always loved the black-tiled white-walled horse-head walls. I never expected to see such architecture at the Xinghua City Museum, which is also a third-level patriotic education base.

Inside the museum, there are sculptures and murals, small bridges over flowing water, winding corridors connected, bamboo and trees sparse, and flowers fragrant everywhere... This is probably the most dignified museum I have ever seen, like walking into a Jiangnan garden. The Xinghua City Museum now has more than 2,000 collected items. Among them, after appraisal, there are 42 national second-class cultural relics and 36 national third-class cultural relics.

There is also a bronze statue of the versatile genius Zheng Banqiao. The museum has permanent exhibitions open to the public all year round, such as 'Zheng Banqiao's Life and Artistic Achievements', 'Shi Nai'an's Historical Relics', 'Exhibition of Historical Relics of Xinghua's Past Celebrities', 'Lv Houmin Photography Art Museum', and 'Cultural Relics Unearthed from Nandang'.

Second Stop: Jindongmen Old Street

Although the outside is bustling with traffic, as soon as you step into this old street, it is quiet as before. I love this tranquility so much. It is said that to understand a city, you start from an old street. Jindongmen Old Street is the place to let you know Xinghua City.

Starting from the Four-Archway, this is the old street of Xinghua, also one of the three major historical and cultural districts of the ancient city of Xinghua, known as 'the first old street of the Ming and Qing dynasties in central Jiangsu'. The first century-old brand on the street, Shangchi Zhai, is well known. Walking deep into the old street, a tune of opera reaches the ears, as if returning to the past, a long, long time ago.

There are also many shops on Jindongmen Old Street, mostly old trades, such as blacksmith shops, tung oil iron pots, tinware making, etc. Watching the old master make tin plates in the sun, the shapes are particularly unique, like blooming flowers. Tinware is very rare in modern society. There are several food stalls on the old street, seemingly simple but very delicious and authentic. If you've been in the city for too long, you will definitely like this place.

On the old street stands a particularly tall stone archway dedicated to Li Chunfang, a historical celebrity of Xinghua. He passed the imperial examination in the 26th year of Jiajing and won the top scholar (zhuangyuan). Later he became the prime minister. This Zhuangyuan Archway was built in the year he became the top scholar, a double-column single-door archway, one of the landmark attractions of Xinghua City. This street is free to both citizens and tourists; no tickets are needed.

Everyone must know the versatile genius Zheng Banqiao. Not far from Jindongmen Old Street is Zheng Banqiao's former residence. Though the residence is not large, with white walls and black tiles, orchids and bamboos rustling, and a quiet courtyard. The entire building gives a simple and elegant feeling, fully reflecting Zheng Banqiao's verse: 'A room is elegant not because it is large; flowers are fragrant not because there are many.'

In this ancient blue-brick gatehouse, strolling in the courtyard, you can quietly hear your own footsteps echoing in the yard. This is indeed the former residence of Zheng Banqiao, the famous calligrapher and painter of the Qing Dynasty and a representative of the 'Yangzhou Eight Eccentrics'. In the residence, the most common plant is bamboo. There are not many bamboos in Xinghua, but this area is special. In ancient times, when Zheng Banqiao entered the city, he had to pass through a bamboo alley more than 200 steps long. In Xinghua's Bamboo Alley, every household works with bamboo. Living in such an environment where bamboo is everywhere, how could Zheng Banqiao not develop a love for bamboo?

'No bamboo, no home' became one of Zheng Banqiao's great preferences. Under the eaves of the study in the former residence, a clump of green bamboo is planted. Through the window paper, Zheng Banqiao could enjoy the shadows of the bamboo from his study, just like appreciating a natural painting. One can imagine that the sound of rain hitting the green bamboo on a drizzly night is touching. Reading in his study, Zheng Banqiao would feel infinite elegance, painting bamboo in ink. He said: 'In painting bamboo, I have no master; I mostly learn from the paper windows, powdered walls, sunlight, and moonlight.'

Third Stop: Thousand-Island Rapeseed Flower Scenic Area

After a simple lunch, it was time for the long-awaited thousand-island rapeseed flower scenic area. Follow the Thousand-Island Beauty Road from the city to get there. Before coming, I thought the road conditions might not be good. But when I arrived, I found the road extremely smooth. Let me say hello to self-driving friends: don't worry about inconvenient driving or parking; the parking lot at the scenic area is really huge.

Many friends say, 'Rapeseed flowers can be seen anywhere, why go all the way to Xinghua?' Such a large-scale water rapeseed flower field, I think only Xinghua has it. It is now one of the four major flower seas in China. This natural landscape of rapeseed flowers was formed as early as 750 years ago. In this watery land lacking soil, the ancestors of Ganggu took soil from underwater and piled it up into mounds, much like new swallows building nests with mud. Through hard work and fearlessness, they built rows of raised fields.

The origin of the Thousand-Island Rapeseed Flower Scenic Area: More than 1,200 years ago, this was a swampy grassland, uninhabited. During the Song-Jin war, Jin general Wuzhu camped here 9 kilometers from Yue Fei's camp (Zhaoyang). To defend against the Yue family army, he dug a Bagua-shaped trench around his central command, gradually digging outward, piling the excavated earth into mounds and earthen walls as defensive barriers. As sediment from the upper reaches of the Yangtze and Huai rivers gradually raised the terrain in the west, south, and north, the central Jiangsu area became a concave basin. The convergence of three rivers raised the water level, and the ancient battlefield disappeared. The trenches became water channels, and the mounds and earthen walls became islands surrounded by water, forming a watery land. After continuous development by generations of hardworking people, the thousand-island fields were thus formed.

Thousands of raised fields float on the water, with clouds and mist, magnificent. In spring, golden rapeseed flowers bloom on the raised fields, like auspicious clouds dancing on the water, like patches of rosy clouds scattered on earth. People immerse themselves in the endless sea of thousand-island rapeseed flowers, feeling the intoxicating fragrance carried by the wind, with a refreshing heart and a sense of overwhelming beauty.

Opening hours: 7:00-17:30

Children under 1.1m: free

Seniors over 70 with valid ID: free

Ticket + boat (package): regular price 100, reservation price 80

Fourth Stop: Bishui Dongluo (Clear Water East Luo)

Exiting the thousand-island scenic area at sunset, we continued along the Thousand-Island Beauty Road. Actually, I lost track of directions. Not far from the thousand-island rapeseed flower scenic area, there is a pastoral village called Dongluo Village. Dongluo Village has a unique geographical advantage, surrounded by two rivers and two lakes, and sitting amidst thousands of acres of rapeseed flower fields. The environment is naturally beautiful. Last year, it was rated as a National Forest Village, known as 'Bishui Dongluo' (Clear Water East Luo).

Bishui Dongluo, a village as beautiful as its name. Entering the village, coincidentally at sunset, a real picture of a beautiful Jiangnan water town came into view. The houses are built along the river, mostly two-story buildings. I have to say that the Jiangnan countryside is truly beautiful, with drooping willows on the banks, birds singing and flowers fragrant. CCTV's 'Aerial China' once filmed here, and it deserves to be one of 'China's Most Beautiful Villages'.

In the village history museum of Dongluo Village, all sorts of ancient farming tools are displayed. Some I saw in childhood, others I didn't recognize. The blue bricks and small tiles record the weight and reality of an era. Inside are many objects from the last century, such as black-and-white TVs, radios, sewing machines, thermos bottles, wooden cabinets, and farming tools. This is the memory of Dongluo Village and many villages across the country, a testimony to rural development. Walking into the museum, a trace of gentle nostalgia arises.

The toilet also restored the old style. According to locals, it was built with leftover bricks from village renovation, quite interesting. I couldn't help but press the shutter and leave this photo.

The clear lake reflects the rapeseed flowers and the entire village. On the riverbank, peach blossoms are red and willows green. The evening breeze in March is still a bit cool. I took a photo by the ancient brick wall. The village auditorium, history museum, village dining hall, and people's stage in Dongluo Village all have a strong sense of era. I have to say that whether in material or spiritual life, the villagers here live very fulfilling lives.

The retro-style red-brick building in front is the Dongluo Auditorium, transformed from the old temple of the village. This building was first built in 1953, 67 years ago. The entrance is very distinctive, with spacious interior space. It is a venue for villagers' lectures, art performances, and gatherings.

Dinner was at the village dining hall in Dongluo Village. Hearing the name, I thought it was ordinary farm food. Unexpectedly, this dinner was so exquisite and delicious; it really took rural wild delicacies to the extreme. Highly recommend: if you go to see the thousand-island rapeseed flowers in Xinghua, you can take a detour to nearby Bishui Dongluo and taste the food at the village dining hall.

I took some photos of the food casually. Although most are common dishes, they were really delicious. Highly recommended.

It was late when we returned to Tianbao Garden Hotel. The first day's itinerary ended, leaving endless aftertaste.

The second day was full of energy again. We went to Langting for morning tea. The morning tea at Langting Hotel is quite famous. Both the buns and steamed dumplings are huge; a small girl can be full after just one. Usually, locals bring their own tea leaves, brew a cup, order a plate of shredded tofu skin, and a large meat bun, eating until full. Only then can you truly understand the truth that 'morning plans set the tone for the day'. When the morning is pleasant, the whole day is wonderful.

Fifth Stop: Shijiaqiao Village

The legacy of 'Water Margin' returns to the hometown; the cultural lineage stretches long at Shijiaqiao. The former residence of Shi Nai'an, the great writer and author of 'Water Margin', is located in Xinduo Town, Xinghua City. This village has deep traditional cultural veins and rich cultural relics.

Before going to the village, we visited the cemetery of Mr. Shi Nai'an. The cemetery displays the Shi family genealogy, various cultural relics related to Shi Nai'an and his descendants, and various editions of 'Water Margin'. According to his grandson Shuyuan's wish, he was buried here.

After seeing the crafts related to 'Water Margin', it left an endless aftertaste. This is probably the charm of a masterpiece. Although I don't know many stories from 'Water Margin', the classic ones still strike a chord.

Since I couldn't photograph the tomb, I'll just tell you from encyclopedia. Mr. Shi Nai'an's tomb is surrounded by water on all sides. The tomb is a circular mound, 3.5 meters high, 4.5 meters in diameter, with a stone tablet reading 'Tomb of the Great Writer Mr. Shi Nai'an', 1.4 meters high and 0.4 meters wide. In front, there is a three-door brick archway. On the middle beam of the archway, there is a stone inscription 'Nai'an Gong Fang'. The tomb is among pines and cypresses. A stone tablet with Zhao Puchu's handwritten 'Record of Rebuilding Shi Nai'an's Tomb' stands in front of the tomb. Nearby, there is a green island, and a small river flows around it. Viewed from above, it looks like a lion (Shizi) playing with an embroidered ball, hence commonly called 'feng shui treasure land'.

Afterwards, we came to Yantai Di (Inkstone Platform). This is the place where Shi Nai'an wrote 'Water Margin'. Surrounded by water, it is a natural raised field landscape. Because the ground is slightly higher than the surrounding area and shaped like a giant inkstone, locals call it 'Yantai Di'. At that time, Shi Nai'an lived and wrote here, completing the masterpiece 'Water Margin'. Until the 1970s, 'Yantai Di' still had remnants of a three-room thatched cottage where Shi Nai'an had lived.

In December 2015, Xinghua City built the Shi Nai'an Cultural Park, rebuilt Shi Nai'an's former residence on the original site, and expanded it into front wing, west wing, and gatehouse. In 2018, Shijiaqiao was selected as a pilot village for Jiangsu Provincial Characteristic Rural Construction, and Yantai Di was included in key planning and construction projects. The newly built Yantai Di covers an area of 16 mu (about 2.6 acres), with a building area of 2,500 square meters, including Shi Nai'an's former residence, farmyard, three old workshops (winery, tofu workshop, oil workshop), traditional Chinese studies hall, Shi's ancestral hall, and other characteristic buildings and related facilities. The famous writer Bi Feiyu once inscribed a plaque for 'Yantai Di'.

The aroma of wine filled the air. We drank a cup of 'Water Margin' wine, feeling the hospitality of the villagers in Shijiaqiao Village. Grandpa Shi, a descendant of Shi Nai'an, poured wine for us and even struck a pose of ancient people drinking. A really lovely and warm-hearted grandpa.

The most distinctive feature of Shijiaqiao Village is that the entire village is covered with wall paintings of the heroes from 'Water Margin', painted by peasant painters. The 108 heroes are vividly depicted, as if reading the classic 'Water Margin' again. Now Shijiaqiao Village has been listed as one of the most characteristic villages in Jiangsu Province. If you love classics, you might want to explore it.

Sixth Stop: Shuirun Liuze

'Boats travel on clear waves, people swim in the water.' In another village of Xinghua, Liuze Village, the main theme of 'Celebrating harvest, promoting culture, revitalizing the countryside' has been sung. A harvest picture embodying the diligence and wisdom of water-town farmers is slowly unfolding.

Liuze Village has a beautiful ecological environment and rich natural resources. The total area of the village is 6,208 mu, including 2,526 mu of arable land, 483 mu of platform land, and 3,199 mu of water area. The main platform of the village is connected to four small surrounding platforms by four bridges, forming a 'Bagua' pattern. The entire platform is surrounded by water, with crisscrossing rivers and ponds, and lush trees, typical of traditional villages in the Lixiahe area. Here, the interdependence of water and village is fully reflected. The unique water resources attract fishing enthusiasts from all directions.

In the village, there is a 'Fan Deng Reading' book bar. Fan Deng said this is the first Fan Deng Reading bar established in a rural area. The book bar often organizes reading sessions, for parent-child, emotional topics, etc., with teachers explaining. As a mother, I naturally pay more attention to parent-child activities. Seeing those little deer and sheep stools, I could imagine my own child sitting there reading, so lovely.

Liuze Village also has boutique homestays. If you want to experience rural life, you can stay here for a few nights, nestled by green trees and water, escaping the hustle and bustle.

Lunch was at the restaurant in Liuze Village. Rural dishes, novel preparation, extremely delicious. During the tour of Liuze Village, a young lady from the village led us around, constantly introducing the wild vegetables everywhere in the village. A blessing for city ladies. If you have a chance, go taste the delicacies of Liuze Village.

Seventh Stop: Lizhong Water Forest

The last stop of the Xinghua trip was Jiangsu Province's largest man-made ecological forest, Lizhong Water Forest Park. A natural ecological oxygen depot, a great place for urbanites to return to nature and relax. Water is the soul of the water forest; green is the life background of the water forest. Here, water and forest coexist in such harmony and mystery.

In the forest, the ground is covered with February orchids. Even though the metasequoia trees have not yet sprouted green shoots, supported by these February orchids, the metasequoia still carrying winter's breath shows vitality. There are 108 tall metasequoia trees in the park, so named 'Haohan Lin' (Heroes Forest) after the 108 heroes of 'Water Margin'. This scene is called 'Walking the hero path, viewing the hero forest'. The 'hero path' is a long wooden walkway, straight into the depths of the dense forest.

The most distinctive activity in the forest is 'raft drifting'. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we couldn't take it. If you could take a raft, slowly rowing through the ditches in the dense forest, you would surely startle the water birds resting on the water banks, making them flap away. Such a beautiful scene, I don't want to think too much. I will definitely come back when I have the chance to experience that green wonderland. Summer and autumn are the best times to visit Lizhong Water Forest. Looking forward to next time.

Tickets: Adult ticket + raft: regular price 80 yuan, online price 72 yuan.

Bus routes: 1. Xinghua - Shunsheng: departure times from Xinghua 6:00-17:30, from Shunsheng 6:00-17:00. 2. Xinghua - Shagou: departure times from Xinghua 6:00-17:30, from Shagou 6:00-17:00.

Self-driving is more convenient.