Water-Nourished Xinghua: Meeting Rapeseed Flowers and Exploring a Unique Small Town in Northern Jiangsu

Xinghua, a small town in northern Jiangsu that brims with the essence of spring as soon as March arrives, in previous years I would travel to various places at the start of spring in March to see rapeseed flowers. This time, I finally came to the mecca of rapeseed flowers, Xinghua, to discover a very niche and fun little town. This time, I set my destination on Xinghua, Jiangsu, to seek out its unique morning tea flavors and unlock different ways to experience Xinghua. It turns out that besides rapeseed flowers, Xinghua has many other distinctive sights. Stepping into Xinghua this spring when rapeseed flowers are in full bloom, it all begins with discovering the beauty of Xinghua.

Every year come March, it's the season when rapeseed flowers bloom. When rapeseed flowers are mentioned, aside from Wuyuan, the famous Xinghua Qianduo Rapeseed Flower Sea comes to mind. Xinghua is not only a holy land for spring outings to see rapeseed flowers but also the hometown of Zheng Banqiao, the foremost of the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou. Coming to Xinghua, to understand its history and culture, one must start by learning about this famous Qing dynasty literary figure.

Although Zheng Banqiao was the foremost of the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou, he was a native of Xinghua, Jiangsu, and a renowned painter and writer of the Qing dynasty. Many have heard his famous saying "It is hard to be fooled." Zheng Banqiao once served as a county magistrate in Fan County and Wei County in Shandong. He made many achievements during his tenure, benefiting the people, and thus was widely praised. Zheng Banqiao made a living selling his paintings and is known as one of the three great talents.

In Xinghua, Jiangsu, there is a Zheng Banqiao Memorial Hall, which also serves as the Xinghua City Museum. It tells the history of Xinghua and the life of Zheng Banqiao. Stepping inside, it is filled with the freehand charm of Jiangnan gardens—carved beams, painted rafters, ponds, and greenery—as if entering a garden, making one feel suddenly enlightened. Thus, the memorial hall is fully integrated with nature.

The memorial hall houses 1,181 pieces in its collection, established specifically to commemorate Zheng Banqiao. The exhibits mainly display Zheng Banqiao's life and artistic achievements. From here, one can learn about the past and present of Xinghua, as well as the inner journey of Zheng Banqiao's life.

The museum showcases the spectacular sight of Xinghua surrounded by a sea of rapeseed flowers. Indeed, Xinghua is a city atop rapeseed flowers, with rivers encircling it, giving it the grandeur of a water city.

Outside the Zheng Banqiao Memorial Hall, there is also a former residence of Zheng Banqiao, which now serves as a cultural tourism card for Xinghua. Nearby are historical sites such as the Four-Archway and the Jindongmen Old Street. When visiting Xinghua, one must come here for a stroll. Entering the former residence, a wall is embedded with stone tablets, and beside them, bamboo shadows sway, creating an antique atmosphere.

As is well known, Zheng Banqiao was an important representative of the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou, yet his former residence is in Xinghua, Jiangsu, which sparks the imagination. Actually, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, Xinghua belonged to the Yangzhou Prefecture. So Zheng Banqiao lived in the Yangzhou Prefecture for a long time, but he was not from a wealthy family. Houses in Yangzhou were relatively expensive, so he settled in Xinghua.

Zheng Banqiao's former residence consists of eight Qing dynasty folk houses. Although not large, they appear quiet and rustic, which echoes what Zheng Banqiao wrote during his lifetime: "The room need not be elegant, the flowers are few enough." This state is not something ordinary people can match. Among the eight rooms, there are three main rooms, including a bedroom, a living room, a small study, a gatehouse, and a kitchen.

Although the former residence is located in a bustling area, once you step into the courtyard, the outside noise disappears. Walking in the courtyard, you can hear your own footsteps. Next to the residence is the Green Garden, where Zheng Banqiao lived in his later years. Later destroyed by military fire, the current Green Garden was rebuilt based on the feel of the original residence. Now it is more like a Jiangnan backyard garden, with pavilions and terraces, extremely pleasant.

Zheng Banqiao painted only orchids, bamboo, and stones throughout his life. His poetry, calligraphy, and painting are known as the "three perfections" by the world, earning him the reputation of a genius of three perfections. Especially his bamboo paintings, which reached a state of extraordinary refinement, evolving into a style uniquely his own and a true portrayal of his aloof character. In the small study of the former residence, one can appreciate replicas of Zheng Banqiao's poems, calligraphy, and paintings.

Tickets for Zheng Banqiao's former residence are not expensive, 20 yuan. The courtyard is very quiet, similar to the scene when Zheng Banqiao lived here—no noise, no bustle, only simplicity and tranquility.

Every city has an old street that represents its culture and history. Although various new pedestrian streets emerge endlessly, only these old streets have charm and allow one to truly experience the real folk customs and the breath of human life. In Xinghua, Jiangsu, there is also such an old street, known as the first street of the Ming and Qing dynasties in central Jiangsu. It is the Jindongmen Old Street next to the Zheng Banqiao Memorial Hall.

Jindongmen Old Street has a history of a thousand years. It is truly a millennium-old street. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it entered a commercial heyday, with thriving business and abundant daily profits, hence the name "Golden East Gate". The old street takes the east gate outer avenue as its main axis, running east-west, 1200 meters long, with complete Ming and Qing ancient building complexes and a fishbone-like street and lane system, maintaining and adhering to the traditional style and features of the Ming and Qing periods.

Because of its long history, Jindongmen Old Street has preserved many historical relics and ancient buildings, making it the best-preserved historical district in the Lixiahe area. Attractions such as Zheng Banqiao's former residence, Shangchi Zhai, and Zhao Haixian's Western-style building are embedded like stars. Strolling through the antique streets and alleys, passing under the towering and exquisite Zhuangyuan Archway, one's thoughts seem to travel back a hundred years to an era of poetic charm.

The first thing you see when entering the old street is the Shangchi Zhai pharmacy, a century-old drugstore. Even before entering, you can smell a strong aroma of herbs. This pharmacy can be said to be the most important shop for local residents, selling various traditional Chinese medicines, a necessity for the elderly on the old street.

After passing the Shangchi Zhai pharmacy, ahead is the main street of Jindongmen Old Street. Although called an old street, it is actually a small alley. On the narrow old street, shops stand in rows, selling very local snacks or down-to-earth goods. From time to time, bicycles brush past, allowing you to feel a strong sense of human life.

Wandering around the old street, I found that most of the buildings are wooden structures, arranged in a patchwork, with exquisite wooden carved windows. There are many craftsmen's shops here, one of which is the tinware shop. This is a very famous shop on the old street. Handmade tinware is very precious in today's era, and watching the crafting process, the heart seems to quiet down.

Although the shops look very simple, the people here still stick to their old trades. For example, I initially thought this was a barbershop, but upon closer look, it turned out to be a place for filling teeth.

Walking into this deep and quiet old alley, I caught a glimpse of the local people's living conditions. The commercial atmosphere here is not strong, preserving the original market life. Shops making handmade leather shoes, nostalgic red thermos bottles, fragrant sesame cakes—all are filled with a retro vibe.

After renovation, Jindongmen Old Street still retains its ancient charm. Strolling through it, it feels like traveling between ancient and modern times. Observing the local lifestyle is like tasting a pot of aged wine, with a lingering aftertaste. What is more gratifying is that there is no heavy commercialization, and there are not many tourists. Walking through it, you feel as if you can blend into the local life.

March is the season of rapeseed flowers. Many places' rapeseed flowers are quietly blooming. People take advantage of the warm spring to go "sweeping the yellow," but the most unique sea of rapeseed flowers is undoubtedly Xinghua's Qianduo rapeseed flower fields. The Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area is located in Dongwang Village, Ganggu Township, Xinghua. It is not only an important global agricultural heritage but also one of the four major flower seas in the world. Every spring, the rapeseed flower fields bloom, forming a beautiful golden sea landscape.

Qianduo rapeseed flowers are different from those planted elsewhere. Here, crisscrossing rivers meander through the rapeseed flower sea. The golden flower sea floats on the water like strips, forming a landscape of interlocking mounds and ditches. You can either stroll among the rapeseed flowers or take a small boat through the endless flower sea.

When mentioning Xinghua, rapeseed flowers come to mind. The annual rapeseed flowers—this year I finally successfully checked in at the famous Xinghua Qianduo rapeseed flower sea. For a spring outing and flower viewing, the rapeseed flower sea in Qianduo Scenic Area is already in full bloom. The golden flower sea, a vast expanse of yellow, dyes the eyes and makes one intoxicated. When the March spring breeze brings the first warmth, lifting girls' skirts and hair, at this moment, the spring breeze for ten miles is not as good as going to Xinghua Qianduo rapeseed flower sea to seek a touch of freshness.

In the sunny spring of March, enjoying the golden rapeseed flowers, I arrived in Xinghua just as early-maturing varieties entered full bloom, and mid-to-late maturing varieties entered early bloom. So, when overlooking the Qianduo rapeseed flower sea, it presents different shades of yellow.

Now, the 2021 Xinghua Qianduo Rapeseed Flower Tourism Festival has just opened. The rapeseed flower sea has become a beautiful and spectacular scenery in Xinghua. Golden rapeseed flowers, patch after patch, complement the river channels. The rapeseed flower sea spread on the river surface is like a natural painting, outlining the spring charm of the small town. The river has ten thousand bends, all clear water; no field without a mound and yellow flowers. Xinghua is a small town with a long history and culture. Its unique folk customs and picturesque water town scenery add a different artistic conception to the Qianduo rapeseed flowers.

Walking in the magnificent Qianduo rapeseed flower sea, you often see bees dancing among the flowers. Because rapeseed pollen is rich in nectar, the wind carries a sweet floral fragrance, adding a pastoral touch. During the March rapeseed flower season, people from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai particularly like to visit Xinghua for spring outings. These two days, the scenic area is especially crowded. Being in the rapeseed flower sea allows city dwellers to return to simplicity and enjoy true rustic pleasure.

For many friends who love such golden flower seas, Xinghua's Qianduo rapeseed flower sea might be a good choice. After all, among the rapeseed flower planting areas in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai, Qianduo rapeseed flowers are the most unique and spectacular flower-viewing feast. Wearing light-colored clothes here makes for great photos, and you can also take aerial shots to capture the entire flower sea.

The reason Xinghua's rapeseed flower sea is different is closely related to its local history and culture. Xinghua has a network of rivers and harbors, and the raised fields (duotian) have a history of thousands of years. Every year during the dry season, locals dig up mud from low-lying waters and pile it on higher ground to grow crops, thus forming small island-like raised fields in the water. Nowadays, not only crops are grown on these mounds, but also rapeseed flowers in spring.

At the end of March and beginning of April, rapeseed flowers bloom. Blue sky, clear water, and golden islands form a beautiful scene of thousands of acres of rapeseed flower sea. Golden rapeseed flowers bloom on the raised fields, earning Xinghua the reputation of the "Land of Ten Thousand Islands." It can be said that Xinghua is the only scenic area that combines rapeseed flowers and water scenery so perfectly.

After entering the scenic area from the south gate, a three-story observation tower is not far away. It is the highest point of the scenic area and the first place I ran to see the panoramic view of rapeseed flowers. Looking far into the distance, the eyes are filled with golden rape flowers, stretching from underfoot to the horizon, very spectacular.

If you have more time, take a small boat to drift leisurely from the river. Flower fields, small islands, flowing water, and black-awning boats interweave to form a freehand painting of a leisurely rural pastoral.

In Xinghua, there is a very idyllic scene: Bishui Dongluo. Dongluo Village is one of the first 45 characteristic rural construction pilot villages in the province. Underground pipes, waterfront platforms, ancient buildings, and clear river water create a beautiful environment.

Dongluo Village is located between the Qianduo Rapeseed Flower Scenic Area and the Lizhong Water Forest Scenic Area. The main entrance gate is set against green bamboo. Squares and passages made of stone and ancient bricks, staggered waterfront platforms, and docks present a clear picture of Bishui Dongluo's ecological scene.

Rapeseed flowers and cherry blossoms form the most beautiful spring scenery of Dongluo Village. Stepping into the ancient village, the hustle and bustle are shut out, leaving only a peaceful and serene atmosphere.

In Dongluo Village, there is also a museum about Dongluo, which tells about the lifestyle of Dongluo villagers from the farming period.

The village auditorium of Dongluo was rebuilt from an old temple, first built in 1953, full of a sense of era. Such old structures used to exist in every village, but it is rare to find one as well-preserved as in Dongluo.

Today, Dongluo Village has revitalized its old village. Some stylish guesthouses are nestled among the lush nature.

There is also a villagers' canteen here, which serves local specialties with exquisite presentation.

"During the day, skin wraps water; at night, water wraps skin." Coming to Xinghua, you must not miss tasting the local morning tea. "Skin wraps water" refers to morning tea. Since Xinghua is very close to Yangzhou, its morning tea shares similarities with Yangzhou morning tea. As the morning tea culture flourishes, Xinghua has integrated morning tea into its urban food identity. The first thing Xinghua people do when they get up in the morning is to go to a tea house and order a basket of dim sum to start a vibrant day.

Xinghua people do not take morning tea lightly. They go to relatively famous tea houses—the kind of restaurants where one would usually go for lunch or dinner—and sit leisurely with family and friends. For them, morning tea is not just about filling the stomach, but an indispensable pastime in life. For Xinghua morning tea, most locals go to the Langting Grand Hotel. Entering the lobby, it is bustling with noise and full of seats. Xinghua's morning tea culture truly lives up to its reputation.

The most classic dish in Xinghua morning tea is blanched shredded dried tofu (tanggan si), which is the first dish served. This small dish of blanched shredded dried tofu is a traditional famous food in the Yangzhou-Taizhou area. It looks simple but requires extremely high knife skills from the chef. Xinghua's blanched shredded dried tofu is made from firm tofu, cut into shreds, mixed with vinegar, and has a smooth and tender texture. It is one of the most indispensable foods in Xinghua morning tea.

Pumpkin cakes are very large, with thick fillings, truly generous.

Steamed dumplings are filled with local wild shepherd's purse—a taste I still miss.

Crab roe buns are handmade, filled with local river crab meat. Xinghua river crabs have firm roe, plump meat, and plenty of fat. They are made and steamed on the spot, extremely delicious. Because the filling is generous, the steamed broth soaks into the soft leavened dough, making it fragrant and moist. Bite into it, and the crab roe oil bursts with aroma. The large crab roe buns cost 8 yuan each, bigger than a palm.

Siumai (shumai) are filled with glutinous rice and pine nuts, mixed with lard. Steamed, they are just fragrant.

In this small town of Xinghua, many famous figures have emerged, such as Zheng Banqiao, the foremost of the Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou, and Shi Nai'an, who wrote the Four Great Classical Novels. They are the pride of Xinghua. In Xinduo Town, Xinghua, there is a Shi Nai'an Cultural Park that tells the story of Mr. Shi Nai'an and his creative process. It is also a 3A-level scenic spot, and the guide is a descendant of Shi Nai'an.

The core part of the Shi Nai'an Cultural Park is the Shi Nai'an Cemetery. Shi Nai'an was a famous novelist at the end of the Yuan and beginning of the Ming dynasties, best known to the public as the author of "Water Margin," one of the Four Great Classical Novels. Born in Xinghua, Taizhou, his cemetery is located in Shijia Bridge, Xinduo Town, Xinghua. The tomb was first built in the early Ming dynasty.

The Shi Nai'an Cemetery centers on Shi Nai'an's tomb. The park displays Shi's family tree, various cultural relics related to Shi Nai'an and his descendants, and various versions of "Water Margin" familiar to everyone. In the exhibition hall explaining Shi Nai'an's life, there is a detailed introduction to research and investigations on Mr. Shi Nai'an, giving us a deeper understanding of the author's life and creative process.

The cemetery is surrounded by water on all sides. The tomb is a circular earthen mound, 3.5 meters high and 4.5 meters in diameter, with a stone tablet inscribed "Tomb of the Great Literary Master Mr. Shi Nai'an." In front of the tomb, there is a brick archway and three gateways. The middle gate is engraved with the four characters "Nai'an Gong Fang" (Shi Nai'an's Archway). In the cemetery, you can see stone carvings of Shi Nai'an, Shi Gong Bridge, a four-cornered pavilion, a stele inscribed by Zhao Puchu with "Record of the Restoration of Shi Nai'an's Tomb," and an exhibition room of materials. Many precious historical materials for studying Shi Nai'an are displayed here.

The cemetery has beautiful scenery, giving a feeling of entering a Jiangnan water town. Unlike other cemeteries, Shi Nai'an's cemetery conveys not only solemnity but also the full spring scenery and a wealth of knowledge to absorb.

In the cultural park, there is also a former residence of Shi Nai'an. Entering, you immediately see the four big characters "Qianqiu Junbi" (Everlasting Splendid Writing), describing Mr. Shi Nai'an's profound literary skills.

Shi Nai'an originally lived very simply. Living in seclusion here perhaps allowed him to create better.

Although the furnishings in the room are simple, they are full of strong literary temperament. Calligraphy, paintings, green plants, and wooden tables reflect Mr. Shi Nai'an's creative elegance.

Shi Nai'an's neighbor's house is much more imposing and exquisitely decorated. Stepping inside, it feels like a wealthy family's residence.

Here, you can taste the local Shi family wine, rich and aromatic, intoxicating even before approaching.

In the Shi Nai'an Cultural Park, you can also see graffiti works themed on characters from "Water Margin." They are very interesting to look at, full of the atmosphere of "Water Margin." Perhaps this is a good way to let children understand the story of "Water Margin." Each character is vividly drawn according to their personality, reminding people of the plots in the book.

Stepping onto this street feels like stepping into the world of "Water Margin," traveling through ancient and modern times, following the characters on the wall, gradually approaching the story of "Water Margin."

Xinghua is like a small town growing out of water, with wide and clear rivers. Metasequoia trees are lush and verdant on both sides of the village roads, revealing its beautiful appearance within the farmland and forest network.

Liuze Village is a beautiful rural village. Along the riverside road, rows of farmhouses in a line are refreshing to the sight.

In the center of the riverbank in Liuze Village, I unexpectedly discovered a reading room of Fan Deng Books. The interior decoration is very exquisite, with a style completely different from the countryside—modern wooden bookshelves, two levels of space—adding a touch of color to this water village.

The ecological environment is excellent, with superior natural conditions. Riverside trails and wooden boardwalks crisscross, blue bricks and white walls reflect each other, classical and modern architecture blend.

The whole village naturally presents a beautiful scene of summer nights with twinkling stars, a few friends leaning on the railing, and the moonlight reflecting on the pond.

For you who work late into the night in the city, is there a moment when you feel you can't breathe and want to escape from this environment full of exhaust fumes and PM2.5? Many people living in big cities want to leave the city on weekends and go to places closer to nature to relax. In the Yangtze River Delta, which is home to many first-tier cities, there are many excellent suburban places that allow people to break away from the fast-paced life and feel the fresh taste of nature.

Jiangsu, part of the Yangtze River Delta, has the most 5A-level scenic spots in the country. Every county-level city in "bulk Jiangsu" can offer many excellent tourism resources. This time I came to Xinghua and discovered such a place like a green wonderland: Lizhong Water Forest, located in Lizhong Town, Xinghua, not far from the famous Xinghua rapeseed flower scenic area.

Lizhong Water Forest Park is the largest man-made ecological forest in Jiangsu Province and the first 4A-level scenic spot in Xinghua, Taizhou. Just entering the park, you can see towering metasequoia trees on both sides wrapping me completely. Breathing deeply in this nature, the air is the freshest. It is known as a natural oxygen bar for urbanites to return to nature and relax. Everyone who comes here comes for recuperation, leisure, and to enjoy nature's gifts.

The Lizhong Water Forest covers 2,000 mu (about 133 hectares), with a forest area of over 1,050 mu and a water area of over 950 mu. The land forest and water forest are almost at a one-to-one ratio. In this vast man-made wetland forest park, over 100,000 metasequoia and pond cypress trees are planted, tall and straight. Seen from above, it looks like a green velvet blanket.

The average temperature here is about 25°C. With shady trees and a mild climate, strolling through the water forest park and breathing the forest oxygen bar naturally makes you feel relaxed and happy. Standing by the riverbank and looking into the depths of the metasequoia forest, the end seems to have a magic that draws me to pursue it.

Just walking by the riverside in the forest is not enough. Taking a wooden raft and floating through the Lizhong Water Forest truly allows you to appreciate what it means to have water in the forest and birds in the forest. Each bamboo raft can hold up to 12 people, and it is the most primitive type of raft. The boatman stands at the back using a bamboo pole to paddle, and the raft wobbles as it takes me into this mysterious water forest.

Sailing deep into the forest, the metasequoia trees reflect on the lake, feeling like entering a fairy forest. It is simply the green wonderland of Taizhou. Everywhere is green. Breathing freely in the forest oxygen bar makes the whole lung feel washed. Taking a boat tour of Lizhong Water Forest is the best choice, allowing you to touch these metasequoia trees growing from the water more closely.

Lizhong Water Forest also has a unique performance of releasing wild ducks. At a command, hundreds of wild ducks fly into the sky, a spectacular scene. However, when I went, there were only four or five ducks, but they still highlighted the vitality of the water forest. Be a quiet forest girl in the water forest.

The water forest is mainly composed of metasequoia. Egrets shuttle and fly among the trees. The combination of dynamic animals and static trees gives a very comfortable feeling. Since it is a water forest with abundant water systems, the water town landscape also makes it a popular check-in spot in Jiangsu. With many trees and plenty of water, it also attracts many wild animals. At its peak, the number of birds in the forest exceeds 60,000.

Fresh air, comfortable temperature, and little noise—this is the charm of Lizhong Water Forest. People feel relaxed and relieve stress in the forest. The natural sounds in the forest give people aesthetic enjoyment.

Ticket: Adult ticket + raft: 80 yuan. Transportation: From Xinghua Bus Station in the city, take the bus bound for Lizhong direction. The fare is about 6-7 yuan, and the journey takes about 30-40 minutes.