Travelogue of Xinghua (2) – Thousand Mound Fields

September 21. Today, as planned, we went to the Thousand Mound Fields in Dongwang Village, Gangu Township, Xinghua City.

What are 'mound fields'?

Mound fields are a unique agricultural landscape found in lake and marsh areas. According to historical records, Xinghua's mound fields were formed 750 years ago. At that time, the people of Xinghua, faced with a lack of arable land in this watery region, dug deep ditches in a grid pattern across the marshes and piled up the excavated earth into mounds, creating cultivable mound fields.

The mound fields are fertile and ideal for planting. In the 1950s, they were already renowned as 'the nation's leading rapeseed fields.' Additionally, because of the wide variety of vegetables, the area is also known as the 'Hometown of Vegetables.'

There is also a legend that these fields were originally trenches dug by Jin Wushu, a general of the Jin Kingdom, during his battle against Yue Fei. I am very skeptical of this. Swampy terrain is hardly suitable for military maneuvers. Moreover, it is questionable whether Yue Fei ever fought with Jin troops here.

We took a long-distance bus to the scenic area. Since it was not the season for blooming rapeseed, there were few tourists. The entrance ticket was bundled with a mandatory 50-yuan boat ticket – a form of forced consumption.

Entering the scenic area, we arrived at the boat dock. Since there were only two of us, we waited a short while before the boat set off.

It was a small punt boat, moving slowly and leisurely through the small river – a pleasure in itself. I recalled similar experiences from my childhood in the Wuxi countryside. Looking back, 70 years have passed! It truly provokes deep emotion.

The rapeseed season was over, and the scenic area had planted various colors of chrysanthemums as a replacement. Though not as satisfying, it meant we had at least visited the Thousand Mound Fields. Since we were in Xinghua, not coming here would have been a regret.

On this stretch of the waterway, a fishing net was stretched across to catch fish. The boat paused briefly, then passed through next to the net.

The boat docked in front of an observation pavilion. From there, the remaining route had to be walked on foot.

Climbing the observation pavilion, we looked down on the Thousand Mound Fields. Different vantage points brought different impressions.

We continued walking through the mound fields, taking photos along the way. A gentle breeze carried the fragrance of flowers. Though the scenery was simple, it was immensely refreshing and soothing to the soul.

The ancients loved chrysanthemums; together with plum, orchid, and bamboo, they are known as the 'Four Gentlemen.' I too love chrysanthemums, for the same reason expressed in the poem by Yuan Zhen of the Tang Dynasty:

'Around the cottage, autumn blooms like Tao's abode,

Along the fence, I stroll as the sun slowly slopes.

Not that I favor chrysanthemums among flowers,

But when they fade, no other bloom sweetly showers.'

We walked back to the dock.

After the tour, we took the shuttle bus back to Xinghua city center.