Thousands of Bays of Clear Water, Thousands of Mounds of Yellow Flowers, and Morning Tea Leaves a Fresh Aftertaste! Spring 2023 Trip to the Lixia River Region. Part 1: Xinghua, Jiangsu

The pandemic has been full of dilemmas for us... Each time we book tickets and anticipate... then cancel tickets and regret... This has become the norm. The tsunami-like pandemic at the turn of the year caused our long-planned second trip to Yunnan to be shelved again, once more missing out on coveted places like Luoping's rapeseed flowers, Yuanyang's terraced fields, and Dongchuan's red land. After three years of the epidemic, China saw a turning point... Another spring season of warm flowers. This time, we hesitated no more and immediately set our sights on the Lixia River region in Jiangsu. The first stop was the Qianduo Rapeseed Flower Scenic Area in Xinghua, northern Jiangsu.

Departure date: March 18, 2023; three-day itinerary; main destinations: Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area, Yancheng Dafeng Holland Flower Sea, Taizhou Ancient Street; travel style: fully self-guided using public transportation; means of arrival: regular train + high-speed rail + coach + urban and rural buses; cost (including meals) about 650 yuan per person.

The itinerary had been long set, and our eager hearts could hardly wait. On the early morning of March 18, 2003, we took train K138 from Nanjing Station to Taizhou, then from Jingtai Bus Station next to Taizhou Station we took a coach to Xinghua, and from Xinghua Bus Station we took bus line You 2. The journey was smooth, and we arrived at the South Gate Visitor Center of Qianduo Scenic Area around noon as planned.

Some things you only know through personal experience. The Xinghua Bus Station in front of us is called Xinghua Main Station on Ctrip, Xinghua Bus Station on map navigation, and Xinghua Coach Station online. Ordering the wrong ticket or going to the wrong station is a big taboo for travelers. Now I can tell you: these are three names for one station. Xinghua has no train service; there is only this bus station in the city proper. All long-distance coaches, city and township buses depart from here.

That day, we took bus You 2 from the township bus station (Gate 2) at Xinghua Bus Station, costing 3 yuan per person. Along the famous Flower Viewing Avenue (Y725), the journey took about 35 minutes (around 11:30 a.m.) to reach the Qianduo Scenic Area Visitor Center bus stop. After getting off, we crossed the road and walked back south about 250 meters to arrive at the South Gate ticket office of the scenic area's visitor center.

Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area is honored as a World Heritage Irrigation Structure, a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System, a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit, and a National AAAA-level Scenic Area. Current ticket price: 50 yuan per person (with discounts or free admission for seniors and children; boat ticket: 50 yuan per person (no free tickets; visitors can choose at will). Various online rumors about bundled ticket + boat ticket sales and locals openly selling fake tickets are completely unfounded! The environment here is beautiful, facilities are complete, service is good, and order is well maintained!

The grand building in front of us is the newly completed Qianduo Scenic Area Visitor Center.

Stepping into the imposing visitor center hall, we were surrounded by elements of Chinese Xinghua culture, overturning our previous understanding. To ensure 'land for the tillers' and 'food for all', the industrious people of Xinghua, generation after generation, labored tirelessly. In this low-lying Lixia River area, they dug out 'thousands of bays of clear water' and planted 'thousands of mounds of rapeseed flowers'. Now, the prosperous and shrewd people of Xinghua no longer 'dig mounds' just for food; they have given this land new meaning. Step by step, they have turned 'water and mounds' into a world-class heritage, making it a national calling card: 'This scenery is unique to Xinghua, attracting guests from all directions!'

Leaving the South Gate Visitor Center, there is a bridge crossing the road. Walking down this bridge and heading north, a flat path plus boardwalk leads directly into the scenic area.

We walked along the boardwalk, enjoying the scenery. Although we had done our homework before coming (see picture above), the scene before us was quite different from what we knew. Many new facilities have been added, such as observation towers, bridges, boardwalks, and brick paths, making it more convenient to walk around.

Waterwheel culture – full of Xinghua Qianduo elements.

Waterwheel culture – full of Xinghua Qianduo elements.

Small-press rapeseed oil – full of Xinghua Qianduo elements.

Cowboy child charm – full of Xinghua Qianduo elements.

Catching crabs by the river – full of Xinghua Qianduo elements.

Catfish whiskers – implying that good water in Xinghua produces good fish, and river delicacies are rare treats!

Domineering sideways walk – implying that Xinghua crabs are plump and rich in roe, making famous crab roe buns.

We continued north along the boardwalk, climbed the first high observation tower to look down (picture above), and the unique scene of Qianduo rapeseed flower scenic area was right before us (picture below).

From the second observation tower, we walked east about 200 meters (middle of the picture below) to the scenic area's popular lookout tower. Since the observation towers were built, this 'if one person goes up, others must queue' tower rarely sees long lines of visitors!

Looking west from the lookout tower (picture above) is one of the two newly built observation towers; looking north (picture below), the early-blooming rapeseed flowers in the northern part of Xinghua Qianduo scenic area are in full bloom! The tourists are most enthusiastic! This scene is probably what drives people to travel all the way here!

A view of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

In recent years, we have visited many flower spots. We believe that for flower viewing: first, 'look at the beginning, not the end; better at 90% bloom than full'; second, avoid peak times – Qianduo rapeseed flowers are at their peak around Qingming Festival, but crowds can be overwhelming, diminishing the experience; third, if you encounter extreme weather, it will be a disappointment; fourth, ensure accurate bloom timing to avoid 'flowers not yet open or past their prime'. Therefore, before our trip, we consulted local guesthouses about the flower situation and decided to go before the peak crowd and avoid the continuous rainy days in late March. So we set off.

Viewing flowers at Qianduo seems simple but has its nuances. Xinghua is located in the northern part of the Lixia River region in northern Jiangsu, greatly influenced by climate. The peak bloom period varies each year, differing by up to a week to ten days. This year's Qianduo Rapeseed Flower Festival was initially scheduled from March 18 to the end of April, but due to low temperatures and drought, the flowers bloomed later, so it was adjusted to March 23 to early May. However, when the scenic area officially opened on March 16, only the early-blooming variety in the northern part and the colored rapeseed flowers in the central part were in bloom, while the southern part was still budding. At that time, the 'Taizhou Ancient Street + Xinghua Qianduo One-Day Tour' had already started; daily train tickets between Nanjing and Taizhou were hard to come by. If we didn't go, we would have to wait another year.

Actually, the Qianduo scenic area originally only had this north-central section. To accommodate the increasing number of tourists, the southern section was developed later. If you come and go in a hurry, rushing through the north-central rapeseed flower fields, it takes at least two hours, and you can still enjoy the flower-viewing fun. But if you want to see every corner from all angles, you need both time and leg power!

In our opinion, the highlights of Qianduo scenic area are: viewing flowers, bays, water, mounds, boats + people. Rapeseed flowers are the main color, bays and mounds are unique, and water brings vitality, boats add movement, and people make it more exciting!

There are two types of boats in Qianduo scenic area: large motorboats on the main waterways, and small rowboats paddled by hand that weave through the bay paths. Of course, the best way to experience Qianduo is: first walk to the Boat House (a two-story observation building in the northeast corner of the scenic area, see picture below), then from the pier downstairs take a large or small boat back.

Viewing flowers, water, mounds – a glimpse of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

Viewing flowers, bays, water, mounds, boats + people – a glimpse of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

People traveling in a painting – a glimpse of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

Viewing water, boats – a glimpse of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

Viewing bays, water, mounds, boats – a glimpse of the north-central part of Qianduo scenic area.

Qianduo flowers and people – many beautiful figures among the yellow flowers, leaving youth bathed in fragrance!

Yellow flowers + clear water + small bridges + flower viewers – a glimpse of Qianduo scenic area.

A glimpse of Qianduo – people intoxicated in the fragrance, moved and selfless!

Beautiful women on the wooden boardwalk of Qianduo.

'The river has thousands of bays of clear water; the fields have not a single mound without yellow flowers' – this scenery is unique to Qianduo!

A view of the small boat pier from inside the Qianduo Boat House.

A glimpse inside the Qianduo Boat House.

A view of the large boat pier from inside the Qianduo Boat House.

There is a Flower Sea Post Office on the ground floor of the Qianduo Boat House. Postcards from here can be sent worldwide!

A glimpse outside the Boat House.

Qianduo flowers and people.

To protect these thousands of bays of clear water, the boatmen of Qianduo never relax!

Hundreds of boats competing at Qianduo pier – a scene of mutual beauty! Every year during the Qianduo flower season, tourists take boats for fun, families enjoy themselves together. Boatmen row for a living – time is money!

Qianduo dragon dance – a warm-up for the Rapeseed Flower Festival opening on March 23 – we came just in time (first watching the men's team performance).

The men's team finished, and the women's team came next. It seems women are no less competitive!

Qianduo not only has yellow rapeseed flowers but also colored rapeseed flowers!

It seems colored rapeseed flowers are my wife's favorite. Click, click, take a few more!

'The river has thousands of bays of clear water; the fields have not a single mound without yellow flowers; seeing one flower bloom at dawn, I feel spring everywhere!' Boats travel on water, people wander among flowers! Before us is the unique 'only in Xinghua' Qianduo rapeseed flowers! We came all the way to find them, and we are full of joy! May more flower viewers come with delight and return with pleasure! Farewell, beautiful Qianduo rapeseed flowers! If we get the urge, we will come again! (The picture above is our return point for flower viewing at Qianduo).

At around 3:30 p.m. that day, we finished our flower viewing at Qianduo. We walked from the north gate of the scenic area, bypassed the long food street in front, and took bus You 2 from the Caihua Scenic Area stop back to Xinghua city center. We stayed at a chain hotel on Banqiao Street in Xinghua. Next, we will taste Xinghua cuisine and morning tea, experiencing a flavorful Xinghua!

Xinghua is located in the central part of the Lixia River region in northern Jiangsu, with fertile land and crisscrossing rivers, known as the 'land of fish and rice'. Xinghua cuisine is mainly Huaiyang style, with some Jiangsu-Zhejiang flavors. The cooking methods are meticulous, specializing in braising, stewing, steaming, sautéing, and stir-frying. The colors are light, and the taste is fresh and delicious. Signature dishes include: stir-fried black fish slices, drunken crab stewed chicken, vinegar-braised mandarin fish, crab roe buns, Shagou spring rolls, Shagou fish balls, Songhua preserved eggs, Xinghua smoked meats, Dainan fragrant tripe, Anfeng three-waxed vegetables, etc. It is a true food city, playfully called a 'place foodies long for'.

Xinghua has a long history and rich cultural heritage. Historically, famous figures such as Zheng Banqiao, Fan Zhongyan, Shi Nai'an, and Liu Xizai were either born here or lived here. Xinghua was established as a county in 920 AD and has a city history of over 2,000 years. Today, many ancient buildings and cultural districts remain, such as Zheng Banqiao's former residence, Fan Zhongyan Memorial Hall, the former Xinghua county office, ancient wells from the Song/Yuan/Ming dynasties, Bazi Bridge, ancient memorial arches, and the Shuimen East Street old street.

The ancient memorial arch on Xinghua Pailou Road was built in the mid-Ming Dynasty, over 430 years ago. It is now a key cultural relic protection unit of Xinghua City.

Xinghua Bazi Bridge (known as the first bridge of Xinghua) on Pailou Road is now a key cultural relic protection unit of Xinghua City.

Our itinerary in Xinghua was very limited (only half a day and one night). Having done our homework thoroughly, to enjoy the afternoon at Qianduo and morning/evening dining, we booked a well-regarded chain hotel on Banqiao Street. Located in the old city center of Xinghua, this area has a concentration of restaurants serving local residents, with authentic and genuine flavors at affordable prices.

In front of us is a historic restaurant in Xinghua. We ate there that evening and the next morning. After the meal, we could say without hesitation: 'For the taste, quantity, great value, and authentic Xinghua freshness and aroma, this is the place!'

What is Xinghua morning tea? Perhaps everyone has a different feeling. A portion of hot dried tofu shreds plus two vegetable buns and a cup of plain tea, costing less than 10 yuan – that's Xinghua morning tea. One crab roe bun, one shrimp dumpling, one pine nut shaomai, one bowl of fish soup shrimp noodles plus a cup of Biluochun tea, costing 50 yuan or more – that's also Xinghua morning tea. Some say, 'Delicious is delicious! It doesn't need to cost much!' As the saying goes, believe it or not!

That day in the restaurant, we saw a local man having morning tea (the elderly man standing in the middle of the picture). He brought his own four kinds of pickles and two cups of tea, and then ordered from the restaurant: one portion of hot dried tofu shreds (4 yuan), two mushroom and vegetable buns (5 yuan), and one portion of pickled ginger (2 yuan). That was a hearty morning tea (a table full of various items). It seemed he and his wife enjoyed it very much for just a few yuan. That's probably Xinghua morning tea! For Xinghua people, having morning tea is a way of life, while for us, it's tasting the delicacy!

What is Xinghua morning tea? Perhaps there is no answer. We feel that in Xinghua, a sesame cake can be so crispy and fragrant that you'll never forget it! A crab roe bun with a few drops of vinegar can make you know what 'freshness lingering on the teeth' means! A bowl of fish balls, a portion of dried tofu shreds, a bowl of fish soup noodles... etc., will become your eternal memories. That's probably Xinghua morning tea! In our opinion, Xinghua morning tea, like Xinghua Qianduo, is a calling card of Xinghua and a heritage of thousands of years!

After morning tea, full of joy, we returned to Xinghua Bus Station. From there, we will set off again to the popular new landmark in Yancheng Dafeng – Holland Flower Sea Scenic Area – to experience the strong exotic atmosphere from Amsterdam, Netherlands, and to seek a different travel feeling!

(This part ends / to be continued) Jinling Lesou / 2003/03/25

Travelogue Contents 1. All the way to Xinghua, random thoughts along the way 2. Returning from Qianduo flower viewing, talking about Qianduo 3. Xinghua cuisine lives up to its reputation

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