Self-driving Tour of Gansu (Dunhuang, Gannan, Maijishan, and Jiuzhaigou)

This trip lasted 14 days. The first 8 days covered Dunhuang and Maijishan, with 7 people (grandpa, grandma, daughter, 2 close friends, and two granddaughters aged 5 and 3) traveling together – five adults and two children. The itinerary mainly included Jiayuguan Pass, Yulin Grottoes, Mogao Caves, Mingsha Mountain, Yardang Devil City, and Maijishan Grottoes. Then the daughter and her two friends took younger sister An back home to Lanzhou for work. For the next 6 days, the two of us (grandparents) continued with older sister Qing to the plateau region: Jiuzhaigou, Huahu Lake, Diebu, Ruoergai Grassland, Labrang Monastery, and Lanzhou. The two sisters basically kept up with our pace all the way and didn't slow us down. Because the distances between attractions were long, the daily drive was basically 5 hours, with the longest being 11 hours. We left early and returned late, and even we adults were exhausted, but the two sisters persisted. They even climbed the cliffside plank road at Maijishan Grottoes by themselves. On the plateau, the older sister had more stamina than us adults. We constantly felt uncomfortable, with heart palpitations and a cold-like feeling, but she had almost no altitude sickness and was in good shape every day. On this trip, we didn’t bring a stroller; they walked all the way by themselves. Luckily, at Huahu Lake, there were strollers for rent, which saved some effort. Her performance was really amazing.

The hotels we stayed at in Gansu didn't have bathtubs, so little Qing was disappointed she couldn't take a bath. During the Shanxi trip in July, every hotel had a bathtub, which was an extra activity for Qing.

Tasks for each of the 7:

- Grandpa: responsible for the steering wheel.

- Grandma: team leader, responsible for logistics.

- Awen: special assistant, responsible for finances, shopping, etc.

- Huizai: food expert.

- Jojo and the Qing-An sisters: responsible for playing.

Day 1 (Sunday, Sep 20): Guangzhou – Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport T1.

At the exit of Zhongchuan Airport T1, it's a 1-minute walk to the Lanzhou Zhongchuan Airport intercity railway station. If you land at Lanzhou T2, go to Exit 5, and across the street is the intercity station.

Zhongchuan Airport doesn't have a metro, but you can take the intercity railway into the city to Lanzhou West or Lanzhou Station. Trains run every half hour, and tickets must be bought at least 15 minutes before departure.

We took the intercity train to Lanzhou Station, departing at 14:25, ticket price 20 yuan each, 45 minutes total.

Check-in: Ji Hotel (Lanzhou Railway Station branch, booked on official website). Twin room ¥274, no breakfast.

After checking in, we planned to visit Zhongshan Bridge, but couldn't get a taxi or ride-hailing car. We had no choice but to cross the street to the bus stop and take bus No. 6, getting off at Zhongshan Bridge stop. We visited the only river that flows through Lanzhou – the Yellow River – and the century-old Zhongshan Bridge. Now to cross the road you have to use a pedestrian overpass. We were pushing a stroller and the two kids had fallen asleep, and we didn't know what to do. The Lanzhou traffic police were really nice; they personally escorted us directly across the road to Zhongshan Bridge. We were deeply moved – the principle of serving the people is truly implemented.

Nearby we found a "Xiehe Lanzhou Lamian" restaurant. A big bowl of beef noodles cost only 8 yuan, with large and tasty chunks of beef. Ordering a set meal had everything.

On the way back, we saw "Mixue Ice Cream & Tea". All kinds of drinks were delicious and not expensive. Large cups were only 7–9 yuan, great value for money.

Day 2 (Monday, Sep 21): Lanzhou – Jiayuguan South (high-speed rail) – Jinta Poplar Forest (self-drive 93 km, 1.07 hrs) – Jiayuguan Nuojin Hotel (self-drive 92 km, 1.03 hrs). Full-day self-drive mileage: 196 km, duration 2 hrs.

Departed at 7:20, walked 15 minutes to Lanzhou Railway Station, took D55, departed 8:30 – arrived at Jiayuguan South 14:30, 218 yuan per ticket. Ate breakfast and lunch on the train.

After getting off at South Station, exit to the right and walk 100 m to the parking lot to pick up the car (7-seater, rental car procedures already done in Guangzhou). Put away five pieces of luggage and started our self-driving tour.

Outside temperature was 16°C and it was raining. We drove on the expressway for over an hour and arrived at Jinta Poplar Forest at 4 pm. The scenic area is very large, with several zones. You can drive your own car inside, ticket 30 yuan per car. We went straight to the core area – Jinbo Lake Poplar Forest. The poplars were gradually turning yellow, a few were fully golden, and the reflections in the water were beautiful. We lingered there, and the two sleeping kids woke up. They played happily under the poplar trees in the light rain.

People who have been to Jiayuguan say you must eat barbecue here. We found a famous restaurant "Xiaodang Barbecue". Lamb skewers were 20 yuan a bunch. We ordered what we liked. It was delicious and not expensive, the taste was really exquisite. The bill was 320 yuan.

Check-in: Jiayuguan Nuojin Hotel, five-star, rented 2 rooms, business twin rooms, breakfast included, ¥469/night.

Day 3 (Tuesday, Sep 22): Jiayuguan Pass – Yulin Grottoes (self-drive 200 km, 1.55 hrs) – Dunhuang (self-drive 163 km, 1.58 hrs). Full-day self-drive: 363 km, 4 hrs.

Morning: visited Jiayuguan Pass. There are a barbican, Guandi Temple, stage, and city wall. It's one of the relatively well-preserved ancient passes. A thorough visit takes about 2.5 hours.

Then drove 2 hours to Yulin Grottoes. We had booked a visit window of 3:00-4:00 pm (closes at 5:00 pm). Ticket 40 yuan each.

Yulin Grottoes are the sister caves of Dunhuang Mogao Caves. The murals and caves here are very well preserved. The guide takes you to 4 caves and explains their history in detail. Because there weren't many visitors, the environment was quiet. Sometimes we felt a sense of time travel, as if back in old times.

Arrived in Dunhuang after 8 pm. Found a highly-rated restaurant, ate, and went to the hotel.

Check-in: Dunhuang Fuhua International Hotel for 3 nights.

Double room, double breakfast, twin bed (918/3 nights) Room 515.

Triple room, twin beds (one large bed) with three breakfasts (1350/3 nights), Room 617.

Day 4 (Wednesday, Sep 23): Mogao Caves – Mingsha Mountain.

Departed at 8:50. We had booked Mogao Caves A-type ticket (248 yuan each, watch two educational films, take a shuttle bus into the caves, about 3.5 hours).

The educational films mainly let us re-understand the past and present of Mogao Caves. Now it's different from before: divided into A and B types. A-type tickets need to be booked 30 days in advance. Because of pandemic restrictions on visitor numbers, advance booking is even more necessary. A-type tickets allow visiting 8 caves, arranged by the guide. There were still many people, sometimes we had to wait. The last visit was the Nine-Story Pagoda. Total about 4 hours.

The entrance for B-type tickets is on the other side; only 4 caves are visited, the guide gives a brief introduction at the door, 100 yuan per ticket, and it ends quickly.

After coming out, we bought some trendy popsicles printed with patterns of the Nine-Story Pagoda, Crescent Moon Spring, etc., which satisfied the girls' girlish hearts.

Ate at the Mogao Caves restaurant inside the scenic area.

At 3 pm we went to Mingsha Mountain and Crescent Moon Spring (ticket 110 yuan/person, can enter multiple times within 3 days, but need to register at the entrance). Everyone agreed to ride camels first: 100 yuan/person, extra 20 yuan for children. There are many camels now, and the road often gets congested. The camel handlers can take photos for you (20 yuan for unlimited shots). We still had ours taken by the photographer who snapped candids. When leaving, we collected them at the gate, 20 yuan each.

The daughter and her friends went to climb the sand mountain. We stayed with the two sisters playing in the sand at Crescent Moon Spring. The older sister said she wanted to climb the sand mountain to find her mother. Grandpa said okay, and the little girl shot up the mountain like an arrow, not following the group but climbing fast on the side. Grandpa chased after her. In a blink, she had reached 2/3 of the height. Awesome! The younger sister also wanted to go up. Oh dear, forget it. When coming down, the older sister invented a method of sliding down on her bottom. She completed the round trip in about 40 minutes, while mom and friends were still halfway down the mountain.

It got dark, the lights came on, and Crescent Moon Spring under the lights looked like a dreamy scene.

In the evening we ate at "Jingyuan Galiu Lamb". The lamb was fragrant, and all the dishes had strong northwestern characteristics, especially delicious.

Day 5 (Thursday, Sep 24): Dunhuang Museum – Dunhuang Devil City (self-drive 164 km, 2.11 hrs) – Dunhuang (self-drive 164 km, 2.11 hrs). Full-day self-drive: 328 km, 4.22 hrs.

Departed at 8:30, first visited Dunhuang Museum, especially Cave 45 of the Mogao Caves with its realistic replicas.

The road to Dunhuang Devil City is a long stretch of uninhabited area with no scenery on both sides, quite boring. The road condition is very good.

Arrived at Dunhuang Devil City at 12:30. First ate a bowl of Lanzhou lamian, then bought scenic area tickets: 120 yuan each, took the sightseeing bus for the tour. The bus departs on the hour and half-hour.

The Yadan landform of Devil City. When the wind blows sand, the sound is like a devil's cry, hence the name. There are four main stops: Welcome Lion, Peacock Display, Sphinx, and Fleet at Sea – spectacular and breathtaking.

Dinner at "Huiweizhai" for Dunhuang cuisine.

Day 6 (Friday, Sep 25): Dunhuang – Jiayuguan South (self-drive) – Lanzhou (high-speed rail). Self-drive 380 km, 4 hrs.

To make good time, we departed at 7:30 and drove about 5 hours to Jiayuguan South. Found a restaurant near there called "Xiaodang Hekou Whole Roasted Lamb" and had a delicious barbecue meal in an apple orchard.

Returned the rental car at about 13:30.

Took high-speed train D56, departing 14:27, ate dinner on the train, arrived at Lanzhou at 20:20. I booked a car on Ctrip in advance to the hotel. It was quite far but only cost 37 yuan, really cheap.

Check-in: Lanzhou Hilton Hampton Hotel.

Superior double room, breakfast included, twin beds 1.3 m wide, 840 yuan/2 nights. One room accommodated 3 people, and they gave us free breakfast for 2 days. Breakfast was rich; the Lanzhou lamian was delicious.

Day 7 (Saturday, Sep 26): Lanzhou – Maijishan – Lanzhou.

We had visited Maijishan Grottoes in 2016, but because some travel companions are very fond of grottoes, we specially arranged it. This was the toughest day of our trip because the round-trip drive took 11 hours, with only grandpa driving. Apart from the two kids, none of the passengers had a driver's license (they all had licenses but didn't dare to drive). We had no choice but to tire grandpa alone.

At 8:30 we picked up the car, everyone boarded immediately, and we started a journey with low expectations. We sped all the way. Because the Lanzhou–Haikou expressway was under repair, we got off at Gangu station and took national roads over mountains and down valleys. Along the road we saw many fruit farmers selling apples, 1.5 yuan/jin. They were fresh, juicy, and crisp. We re-entered the expressway at Guanzhi station. After 6 hours, we arrived at 2:30 pm. Bought tickets and shuttle bus tickets, hurried to visit Maijishan Grottoes. After getting off the shuttle, there was still 1 km to walk to the ticket check. We brought the two sisters, step by step climbed the suspended plank road, and thoroughly admired each cave. Because it was afternoon, there weren't many visitors; no jostling. The feeling was wonderful. It truly deserves the name "Eastern Sculpture Museum". We gained even more this time. At 5:30 we finally left satisfied and began the return journey. At 23:00 we safely arrived back at the hotel.

Check-in: Lanzhou Hilton Hampton Hotel.

Day 8 (Sunday, Sep 27): Lanzhou – Guangzhou. Lanzhou – Longnan, self-drive 540 km, 7 hrs.

In the morning, Jojo and her group of 4 visited Gansu Provincial Museum. In the afternoon they took the intercity train to the airport, then flight CZ3206 (17:50-20:45) back to Guangzhou.

We (grandparents) took Qingqing, and after saying goodbye to mom, younger sister, and the lady friends, we continued driving toward Jiuzhaigou. A small interlude: Qingqing held her mother's hand, crying that she didn't want to leave her mother. It was a moving scene. Every parting is necessary for growth. Left the hotel at 11:15, drove 7 hours to reach Longnan City (Wudu), stayed one night.

Dinner was directly ordered as takeout delivery to the hotel. The same for the next few days.

Check-in: Longnan Jindu Hotel. 310 yuan/night, breakfast included.

Day 9 (Sep 27): Longnan – Jiuzhaigou, self-drive 230 km, 6 hrs.

Started at 10 am, drove from Longnan Wudu on national roads, crossing mountains and waters. 230 km took 6 hours. Some sections of the national road had collapsed due to floods, only single-lane traffic. Average speed 38 km/h. The Wudu–Jiuzhaigou expressway was under construction, so the road was a big construction site, very dirty. After passing through, the car was all dirty. We decided not to return the same way, but to go from Gannan via Huahu Lake to Diebu, and then back to Lanzhou.

Arrived at hotel at 4:30 pm.

Check-in: Jinjiang Inn.

Day 10 (Sep 29): Jiuzhaigou.

Departed at 10 am, took a taxi to the entrance of the scenic area. This entrance was newly built after the August 8, 2017 earthquake. Since driving ourselves would require finding a parking space far from the entrance, it was more cost-effective to stay nearby and take a taxi back and forth.

Today about 7,000 people entered the valley. Basically no waiting; we directly boarded the shuttle. The scenic area is Y-shaped with two main lines. Usually you take the shuttle to the end and then work your way back stop by stop. At Nuorilang Waterfall transit station, you take another shuttle to the other line. We started from Five Flower Lake – Pearl Shoal Waterfall – Nuorilang Waterfall, then took the other line to Long Sea – Five-Color Pond – Shuzheng Waterfall – Pansitan. We took little Qing from stop to stop, walked the shallow paths, about 3 km in total, quite tiring. Little Qing followed along, climbed trees, played in water, drank butter tea, watched waterfalls. By 4:30 pm we had seen all the favorite spots in Jiuzhaigou.

After the earthquake reconstruction, there weren't many tourists in Jiuzhaigou, mostly independent travelers. Ticket price 259 yuan/person. The water flow was large. Everyone wore masks on the shuttle; epidemic prevention was taken seriously.

Day 10 (Sep 30): Jiuzhaigou – Huahu Lake – Diebu. Self-drive: Jiuzhaigou – Huahu Lake 272 km, 4.46 hrs; Huahu Lake – Diebu 90 km, 1.40 hrs.

Departed at 9 am, passed the beautiful Yellow River Grassland, Ruoergai Grassland at elevation 3800, and arrived at Huahu Lake Wetland Park. Now the park entrance is across the road from the parking lot. The parking lot is large and charges 10 yuan. But at an altitude of 3400, you first have to walk 1 km to see the science corridor, climb 40 steps to cross a footbridge, and then go down to enter the scenic area. Exhausting! After taking the shuttle into the scenic area, you visit several spots and walk the shallow paths for about 2 hours in total. Little Qing hadn't woken up; we checked the time and it was already 2 pm. We woke her up and asked at the entrance if there were strollers for rent. It only required a 200 yuan deposit that was refunded upon return. The service was very good.

Huahu Lake was breathtakingly beautiful. The blue sky and white clouds reflected in the water, water and sky merged. The autumn grass and flowers had turned yellow and red. Waterhens frolicked freely in the lake, fish swam underwater, butterflies and birds flew over the lake – it felt like a paradise.

At 5 pm we drove 90 km to Diebu, "the paradise left by God on earth". It is as beautiful as a Swiss town. The scenery along the road was picturesque, with lush Galsang flowers on both sides. The road was newly built, very comfortable. Diebu is at an elevation of 2300. We had come here four years ago. In the Gannan region, only Diebu allows us to sleep somewhat comfortably.

Check-in: Saiyin Hotel.

Twin bed, breakfast included, 396 yuan/night.

Dinner was dumplings in a restaurant opposite the hotel. After dinner, we went to the supermarket to buy some food. Little Qing liked a dinosaur box; she went back to the hotel full of joy.

Day 11 (Oct 1): Diebu – Labrang Monastery (self-drive 257 km, 4.51 hrs) – Linxia City (self-drive 108 km, 1.43 hrs).

Today was National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival. We drove over 4 hours from Diebu, passing through Yellow River Grassland, Ruoergai Grassland, and Sangke Grassland. Vast meadows, white sheep, black yaks, colorful Galsang flowers – we felt like we were in a fairyland. Although we were driving at altitudes between 3200 and 3500 meters, the stunning scenery temporarily made us forget our physical discomfort. At 2 pm we arrived at "World’s Tibetan Studies Institute – Labrang Monastery". The long corridors of prayer wheels, devout people, and red-robed lamas passing by made us forget all worries. We cherished today's date, the people and things around us. After the pandemic, all scenic spots in Gannan were free of charge. Originally, the ticket for Labrang Monastery was 40 yuan/person – another saving.

At 4:30 we left Labrang Monastery and drove 1.5 hours to Linxia City. Because it was Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day, everyone was preparing for gatherings. The roads had very few cars, so we arrived in Linxia smoothly.

Check-in: Linxia Xuehe Manbo Hotel.

243 yuan/night, breakfast included, twin beds. One of the best hotels, but the room amenities were a bit old.

Because we were tired and also worried about going out with many people, we ordered takeout directly from "Tengshunxiang" to the hotel. Hand-grabbed lamb 70 yuan per jin, tasted good. Other dishes were also good. Of course, we ordered two cups of "Mixue Ice City" to enjoy the affordable happiness here.

Day 12 (Oct 2):

Checked out at 10 am, drove 2 hours back to Lanzhou. The expressway was busy. On the opposite side, there was an accident causing a traffic jam for several kilometers. Our side into Lanzhou was relatively better, no accidents, and we passed through toll-free smoothly. Arrived back in Lanzhou at 12:00.

Check-in: Qilihe Hilton Hampton Hotel.

This time all rooms were full; no upgrade available. We asked for a larger standard room. They recommended Room 1321, opposite the elevator lobby, with good soundproofing. The room was 27 square meters. We accepted; no extra charge for the larger room. After dropping luggage, we drove directly to Gansu Provincial Museum. This was the second day of the holiday; there were many cars on the road, traffic jams everywhere. The museum was crowded; we had to line up for a long time to enter. First, we visited the "Dinosaur Hall" that younger sister An had already seen. Little Qing could recognize and tell us what kind of dinosaur each was – she was like a dinosaur expert. Another important part of the museum is the second and third floors' central halls, which display painted pottery unearthed in Gansu and the Bronze Flying Horse. The "Solemn and Subtle" hall on the second floor showcasing Gansu Buddhist art was also worth seeing.

Day 14 (Oct 3): Left the hotel by taxi at 8:50, went to Lanzhou West Station, took the intercity train to Lanzhou Airport (45 minutes), walked 12 minutes to T2 terminal, took flight HU7402 (12:55-16:00) back to Guangzhou.

The perfect trip ended in tiredness but happiness. Life returns to the starting point, and the next journey is being planned...