My Detailed Travelogue of Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong!
Jiuzhaigou is located in Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. It is known as a 'fairy tale world, paradise on earth.' From photos in various magazines, it is clear that golden autumn is the best season to visit Jiuzhaigou. The colors are brilliant and rich, with colorful forests and snow-capped peaks complementing each other. Boardwalks wind through the colors into a romantic atmosphere, waterfalls surge with passion, and the lakes are dazzling and bizarre. People who come to Jiuzhaigou are all intoxicated by the autumn scenery, like a gorgeously dressed maiden. Worries and nostalgia drift away inadvertently, leaving a sense of inner peace.
I arrived in Chengdu from Shanghai ahead of time and spent a day resting there. During Golden Week, flights from Shanghai to Chengdu were expensive, and the discounted flights had inconvenient schedules, so I chose the D2206 bullet train, departing at 06:39, taking about 15 hours, costing 606 RMB. The departure station was Hongqiao Railway Station, and the terminal was Chengdu East Station. Bringing a book on the journey kept me from getting bored. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Huanglong; all require a transfer, so visiting or resting in Chengdu first is a good choice. I stayed at the Jiaoliao Renwen Boutique Hotel in Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right in the alley, surrounded by many snacks. Just outside the hotel, you can eat grilled skewers, pig trotters, wontons (red oil), and various noodle toppings. On Hongwasi Street, two distinctive restaurants are Huaxi Beef Noodles and Zizhong Rabbit Noodles. Near the legendary small north gate of Sichuan University, you can find ice jelly (three-flavor, without glutinous rice balls), guokui (pork filling), and egg-dough cake (weird flavor). Near the business building close to Gonghe Village, there are Old Ma Spicy Wontons (order the old spicy version), Bobo Chicken (skewers), and Lihua Dumplings. Near Jiu Yan Qiao is a bar street, perfect for nightlife lovers. For late-night snacks, try Zishi Grilled Fish. Also, go to the Xicheng Street New City Plaza area for Tan Tofu Pudding and Jiang Pig Trotters. Don't forget to order a serving of Sweet Water Noodles and Zhong Dumplings. The taste is amazing! Don't ask why you must go there—just go! As for Chengdu's attractions: Jinsha Site and Sanxingdui Site are must-sees. Wuhou Shrine is average, Du Fu Thatched Cottage has poor value for money, and the Sichuan Museum really has no good collections. Jinli and Kuanzhai Alley are too commercialized. These are just my personal opinions.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Renwen Boutique Hotel
At first glance, I didn't know how to pronounce 'Jiao (jiao) Liao (liao).' Seeing the introduction nearby, it seemed to be a hotel, and since I hadn't found a place to stay, I decided to take a look inside.
When the door opened, the long corridor ahead deeply caught my attention.
'A winding path leads to a secluded spot, and the meditation room is deep amid flowers and trees. The mountain light pleases the birds, and the pool shadow empties the heart.' Although it is not a meditation room, it surpasses one. Though there are no high mountains or water pools, there are flowers, trees, water, and birds, creating a very artistic atmosphere.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Renwen Boutique Hotel
After experiencing everything about Jiaoliao, I immediately decided to stay. Living there brought me even more surprises. It truly felt like a secluded retreat hidden in the bustling city.
This hotel is small, with only 10 rooms, but each room is nearly 100 square meters. The entire hotel has excellent privacy, with attentive personal butler service that can help arrange all kinds of matters. Another feature is a small window called the butler service window. When inconvenient, small items like takeout or room supplies can be placed inside, ensuring complete privacy. It feels like being at home, without worrying about outside noise, allowing you to enjoy your own space in peace.
Service is one aspect, but the hotel's hardware facilities are also excellent. The decoration and layout of the rooms give a very comfortable feeling. The style is traditional Chinese vintage, which I really like.
Later, the butler told me that the hotel is centered on Zhuangzi culture. Everywhere in the hotel, you can feel the atmosphere of Zhuangzi's philosophy. There are many old artifacts and antiques, creating a rich cultural ambiance.
Although I only stayed for one short day, I deeply felt the charm of Jiaoliao. The hotel is small but exquisite, free and comfortable. The environment, atmosphere, service, and everything else are impressive. If I come to Chengdu again, I will definitely return to experience the charm of Jiaoliao.
Day 1 (2015.10.07): Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Entrance
At 7:00 AM, I gathered at the south gate of Chengdu Baihuatan Park and took the Jiantu Westbound Bus to the Jiuzhaigou entrance. The one-way ticket was 110 RMB/person, bookable through Ctrip. The ride took about 10 hours, and the drop-off point was the Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, about 5 km from the scenic area entrance. Due to a landslide in Mao County, the bus detoured via Mianyang, adding 60 RMB/person to the fare. Alternatively, you can take a long-distance bus from Chadianzi or Xin'nanmen Bus Station, costing 141 RMB/person. Xin'nanmen has more departures, but tickets can only be purchased 7 days in advance. The group lunch cost 25 RMB/person.
Day 2 (2015.10.08): Jiuzhaigou – Zechawa Valley Long Sea Section
Jiuzhaigou is named after nine Tibetan villages: Shuzheng, Heye, Zechawa, etc. The developed scenic area is shaped like a Y, and you explore by walking and taking buses. The scenic area implements staggered visiting times; when you board the eco-friendly bus, you don't know which spot you'll go to first, which might disrupt your plans.
'After visiting the Five Sacred Mountains, no other mountains are worth seeing; after returning from Huangshan, no other mountains compare; Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven, but Jiuzhaigou's scenery surpasses Guilin; coming to Jiuzhaigou is for the water—after Jiuzhaigou, no other water is worth seeing.' Jiuzhaigou is beautiful, spiritual, and magical because of its water. Water is the soul of Jiuzhaigou, the dancing spirit. The water of Jiuzhaigou is holy and elegant, mysterious and hazy, light and graceful, colorful and vibrant, passionate, and also peaceful. The six wonders—emerald lakes, stacked waterfalls, colorful forests, snow peaks, Tibetan customs, and blue ice—are the most precious treasures left to the world.
After entering the scenic area, I took the eco-friendly bus, paused briefly at Shuzheng Qunhai, and then headed straight to Long Sea. Long Sea is the highest and widest lake in Jiuzhaigou, with a dark blue surface. Its water source comes from melting snow from high mountains. Strangely, the lake is over a hundred meters deep and shaped like an S. The surrounding forests are emerald green, and the peaks are snow-capped year-round. Long Sea has no outlet; in the rainy season, the water does not overflow, and in the dry winter and summer, it does not dry up. Therefore, Long Sea is called 'the baobao gourd that can never be filled or emptied.' Legend says that a monster once appeared in Long Sea. In the 1980s, someone claimed to have seen a giant aquatic creature there. Strangely, no fish live in this vast lake. These mysterious events add to the mystique of Long Sea in winter.
Walking down the wooden boardwalk for about 1 km brings you to Five-Color Pond. Five-Color Pond is the essence of Jiuzhaigou's lakes. The upper part is blue-green, the lower part orange-red, the left side sky-blue, and the right side olive green. The pond grows aquatic plant communities such as Spirogyra, Charophyta, and small ferns, as well as reeds, Equisetum, and Juncus. These aquatic communities have different chlorophyll depths, and in the calcium-rich lake water, they display varying colors. In the same lake, some areas are blue, some coves are light green, some water is brownish-yellow, and some springs are pinkish-blue, constantly changing—absolutely beautiful! In winter, while everything around is frozen, this colorful small pond does not freeze, which is quite extraordinary. Legend says that Five-Color Pond is where the goddess Semo bathed. Every day, the male god Dage brought water for her from Long Sea. Over time, Dage's feet wore 189 steps into the cliff, and the rouge washed off Semo's face turned into this stunning pond. Lovers believe that if they go down the steps to the pond, make a silent wish, and climb back up the 189 steps, they will be together forever.
Now comes the highlight of today. After visiting Five-Color Pond, you have three choices: First, take a bus from the Five-Color Pond station to other attractions; second, walk down the road or boardwalk to Upper Seasonal Sea, then return to Five-Color Pond for the bus (about 20 minutes one way); third, hike back to Nuorilang Center. I chose the hiking route, taking photos along the way, which took about 4 hours. Seasonal Sea is a less popular spot; you have to experience the scenery yourself. After reaching Nuorilang Center, I took a bus toward the exit and got off at Sparkling Lake Station, then walked along the boardwalk toward Reed Sea. The sea is full of reeds, with water birds flying, clear streams, emerald green ripples, winding through the reeds—a beautiful wetland scene. In the middle of Reed Sea, there is a flowing water belt that winds through, dividing the sea into two halves. This belt has the luster and color of fine jade, so it is called Jade Belt River. Legend says this beautiful river was transformed from the belt of the mountain goddess Wono Semo. On one side of Reed Sea, due to weathering, a rock face resembles the face of the goddess Wono Semo.
Day 3 (2015.10.09): Jiuzhaigou – Rize Valley Primeval Forest Section
Sunlight, rain, pine forests, and bird songs create a beauty in the primeval forest different from Jiuzhaigou's waterscapes. The neat, towering pines and cypresses stand like solemn and majestic warriors guarding this beautiful nature. The temperature in the primeval forest is about 3 degrees Celsius lower, so keep warm! Walking down the boardwalk, you can pass by Fangcao Sea and Swan Sea.
Take a bus from Swan Sea to Arrow Bamboo Sea, then you can explore all the way to Five Flowers Sea. Arrow bamboo is the favorite food of giant pandas, and the lake shore is surrounded by arrow bamboo, which is the biggest feature of Arrow Bamboo Sea, hence the name. Arrow Bamboo Sea is wide and long, with blue-green water. Reflections are clear, making it hard to tell whether the mountains are in the water or the water is on the mountains. In Arrow Bamboo Sea, there are many calcified dead trees forming strange coral shapes, and on the rotten wood, new trees grow, known as 'rotten wood renewal' or 'dead wood springing to life' and 'regeneration trees.' When there is no wind, you can enjoy the reflections of Arrow Bamboo Sea, second only to Mirror Sea.
Panda Sea and Arrow Bamboo Sea are sister lakes. The rock textures on the lakeside are unique, reflected in the water, complementing the naturally occurring rounded white stones with black patterns resembling pandas underwater. Remember, do not take a bus from Panda Sea to Five Flowers Sea; be sure to walk along the road or boardwalk. At Tiger's Mouth, you will see the most beautiful Five Flowers Sea. Ah, I forgot and missed this view—what a pity!
Five Flowers Sea is the pride of Jiuzhaigou. In the same water area, it displays colors like light yellow, dark green, deep blue, and navy blue, with a blurry, colorful effect. Nature's brush is bold, intense, and ever-changing. From Tiger's Mouth, looking down at its full view, it looks like a peacock with full plumage spreading its tail. Under sunlight, the lake becomes more dreamy, dazzling, and colorful, transporting you into a fairy tale. The ever-changing brocade of the lake is intoxicating. Through the clear water, you can see springs bubbling up from the lake bottom, making your eyes dizzy. As the mountain breeze blows, various colors intermingle, inlay, interweave, and dye, making Five Flowers Sea full of life, active, and dancing.
Take a bus to Pearl Shoal Waterfall. In a sense, it resembles the Luositan Waterfall in the Huangguoshu Waterfall group. It is not entirely a sheer drop but has a slope of about 20 degrees. The waterfall first flows gently over the shoal. Because the shoal is made of travertine, with scale-like tiny undulations on the surface, when the thin water layer flows over, under sunlight, it sparkles like tens of thousands of pearls, hence the name Pearl Shoal. The water flow on Pearl Shoal is relatively slow and the surface is flat, so visitors can take off their shoes and walk on the shoal. However, because the waterfall is formed by melting snow from the mountains, the water temperature is low. Even in midsummer, walking on Pearl Shoal feels chilling and makes you shiver.
Continuing down, you arrive at Mirror Sea, which has steep slopes on the shore, dense forests, and changing forest colors through the seasons. In the early morning or at dawn, the water is as smooth as a mirror. Blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and nearby trees are all reflected on the lake bottom. The underwater scene is clear, with distinct lines, bright colors, and rich variations. The surreal sight of 'fish swimming in the sky, birds flying underwater' makes people intoxicated. By the lake, a thick vine tightly climbs a giant tree, reaching the same height, straight into the clouds. The tree gives the vine endless warm shade, and the vine gives the tree beautiful, pure love. Thus, people have given Mirror Sea an alias—Love Park.
Passing through Mirror Sea, you reach Nuorilang Waterfall. 'You carry the load, I lead the horse'—my friends, which character would you like to play? The opening scene of *Journey to the West* was filmed here. 'Nuorilang' is a Tibetan transliteration meaning 'male god,' symbolizing grandeur. Therefore, Nuorilang Waterfall means a magnificent waterfall. The torrential water flows from Nuorilang Lakes, cascading down from the top of the waterfall like a silver river plummeting, with a thunderous sound that shakes the valley. The south end has the most powerful water flow, chilling and misty. In the morning sun, rainbows often appear across the valley, making the waterfall even more charming. In autumn, the 300-meter waterfall, set against autumn colors and clouds, turns into a magnificent scene.
Finally, you arrive at another major waterfall in Jiuzhaigou—Shuzheng Waterfall. The snow-like waves of the waterfall contrast sharply with the ancient, sturdy trees—one dynamic, one static—yet they form a harmonious natural picture. Some describe the Shuzheng Waterfall as: 'The lush green ancient trees, with their curved trunks half-immersed in the waterfall, letting the white spray wash over them, look like fairies with flowing hair and bare bodies, bathing and playing in the holy water.' Nature’s wonders can sometimes make you feel as if you’re in the Garden of Eden!
Day 4 (2015.10.10): Huanglong One-Day Tour
At 7:00 AM, at the Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus to the Huanglong cable car entrance. The round-trip ticket was 80 RMB/person, taking about 2.5 hours. Along the way, we stopped at an altitude sickness explanation station to learn about high-altitude symptoms and buy medicine, but it was not mandatory. The visit time in the scenic area was about 6 hours. Alternatively, the Jiuzhaigou bus station also sells tickets to Huanglong, with a round-trip ticket of 90 RMB/person, with only two departure times: 7:00 and 7:30. You need to ask about the return time at Huanglong.
Huanglong Scenic Area is known as the 'Fairyland on Earth' because many colorful ponds change colors with the surrounding scenery and sunlight angles. The main scenic area, Huanglong Gully, resembles the image of a 'dragon' in the Chinese mind, thus often called 'Fairyland on Earth' and 'Chinese Symbol.' Locally, it is revered by all ethnic villagers. Tibetans call it 'Dongri Serjun,' meaning 'Eastern Conch Mountain' (referring to Xuebao Mountain) and 'Golden Lake' (referring to Huanglong Gully).
Day 5 (2015.10.11): Jiuzhaigou Back to Chengdu
At 7:00 AM, at the Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus back to Chengdu via Mao County. The one-way ticket was 120 RMB/person, taking about 8 hours. The drop-off point was Chengdu Chadianzi Bus Station.
Due to the weather, I was not very satisfied with this Jiuzhai-Huanglong trip, but how can everything go smoothly in life? Reading ten thousand books, traveling ten thousand miles, or meeting countless people—through perception and change, we continuously improve ourselves, ultimately reaching the highest state of 'form is emptiness, emptiness is form.' Emptiness is not nothingness; it is knowing impermanence and not clinging to things, like the moon in water or flowers in a mirror—a manifestation of great wisdom. As the *Sutra of Impermanence* says: 'All worldly forms are without form; forms arise from the mind. Visible things are not truly things; perceivable matters are not truly matters. Things and matters are empty; they are in fact delusions of the mind. The common mind sees prisons everywhere; only by transforming the world can one achieve selflessness. The self is the world, and the world is the self.'
Notes and Suggestions:
1. Waterproof jacket and pants, waterproof hiking boots are essential. In light rain, you won't need an umbrella or raincoat.
2. Start taking medication to prevent altitude sickness two weeks in advance. Drink plenty of water and rest when entering high-altitude areas.
3. Book tickets on travel websites whenever possible to avoid carrying too much cash. Jiuzhaigou entrance + eco-bus: 310 RMB/person; online ticket collection is convenient. Huanglong entrance + uphill cable car: 280 RMB/person; the uphill cable car is recommended to save time. I spent a lot of time taking photos, so 6 hours was a bit tight.
4. For hiking, travel light and carry some high-energy food like chocolate, Snickers, beef jerky, etc. Self-heating boxed meals are generally available at small spots inside Jiuzhaigou for 25 RMB/box. Buy one when you see it at mealtime to replenish energy. The set meals at Nuorilang Center are not worth the price; save your appetite for Chengdu. At Huanglong, there is a Rhododendron Forest service station with decent food at reasonable prices; you can normally reach it around 1:30 PM. Highland barley cake + fried rice + local eggs = instant noodles.
5. The benefit of entering the scenic area twice is having ample time to visit and photograph each spot. Of course, if you take buses throughout, like to get up early, and plan well, you can see all of Jiuzhaigou in one day. You can also share a chartered car inside Jiuzhaigou for staggered visiting at an additional 210 RMB/person. Highly recommended for those who just want to check off the must-sees.
6. Restaurant prices outside Jiuzhaigou are roughly the same; the difference is in snacks and wontons, which vary in price. Ordinary grilled fish costs 68 or 88 RMB per fish. Don't be fooled by side dishes they offer—those are usually just garnishes for the fish. About 50 RMB per person. For solo dining, I recommend egg-fried rice + stir-fried wild vegetables or grilled fish.
7. For taxis or unlicensed cabs in the scenic area, you can bargain for 10-40 RMB.
8. The Mao County section is prone to landslides. If you travel by road, be prepared. On my return trip, I encountered a small landslide that took at least 6 hours to clear. If you get stuck in a section without restaurants, you'll have to go hungry, and it may affect your subsequent plans.
9. I'm lazy; I entered the scenic area after 9:00 AM each day and left around 7:00 PM, spending a lot of time walking, so the schedule was a bit tight!
10. Some boardwalks on the Long Sea to Nuorilang section inside Jiuzhaigou are damaged. Be careful; this section is not recommended for walking.
11. Keep a good mindset. The scenery you see may not be what you imagined. Everything changes; only the mind remains unchanged.
12. Accommodation prices at the Jiuzhaigou entrance are flexible. Sometimes booking online in advance is actually more expensive. If you find a cheap deal online, go ahead and book. I booked a standard room for 133 RMB/night. Most hotels offer pickup service; check with your hotel. Some hotels do not provide disposable toiletries!
