A Detailed Record of My Early Spring Jiuzhaigou Trip
Jiuzhaigou is located in Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, known as a 'fairy tale world, paradise on earth.' From various magazine photos, it's clear that golden autumn is the best season to visit Jiuzhaigou, with brilliant and rich colors, colorful forests and snow peaks complementing each other, plank roads winding through the colors into a romantic atmosphere, passionate waterfalls, and the bizarre beauty of the lakes, making everyone who visits Jiuzhaigou mesmerized by its autumn scenery like a beautifully dressed maiden, with worries and nostalgia drifting away unconsciously, and inner peace arising spontaneously.
I traveled from Shanghai to Chengdu in advance and rested for a day in Chengdu. Since flights from Shanghai to Chengdu during Golden Week were expensive and the discount flight schedules were not ideal, I chose to take the D2206 bullet train, departing at 06:39, with a journey of about 15 hours and a ticket price of 606 yuan. The starting station was Hongqiao Railway Station, and the terminal was Chengdu East Station. Bringing a book on the trip kept me from feeling lonely. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Huanglong; all require a transfer, so it's a good choice to explore or rest in Chengdu first. I stayed at the Jiaoliao Humanistic Boutique Hotel near Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right in Kuanzhai Alley, surrounded by many local snacks. Stepping out of the hotel, I could eat kebabs, trotters, wontons (in red oil), and various noodle dishes with toppings. On Hongwasi Street, two distinctive shops are Huaxi Beef Rice Noodles and Zizhong Rabbit Noodles. Near the legendary Sichuan University North Small Gate, there are stalls selling ice jelly (three-fresh flavor, no glutinous rice balls), guokui (pork filling), and egg baking cake (mixed flavor). Near Gonghe Village, at the bottom of a commercial building, there are Laoma Wontons (order the Laoma spice), Bò Bò Chicken (skewers), and Li Hua Dumplings. Near Jiuyan Bridge is a bar street, where nightlife enthusiasts can enjoy themselves, and late-night snacks include Ziti Grilled Fish. Also, go to the New City Plaza near West Street to eat Tan Tofu Pudding and Jiang Trotters, and don't forget to order a sweet noodle and Zhong Dumplings—they are delicious! Don't ask why I insist on going there; just go! As for Chengdu's attractions, Jinsha Site and Sanxingdui Site are must-visits; Wuhou Shrine is standard, Du Fu Thatched Cottage is not worth the price, and the Sichuan Museum has no good collections. Jinli and Kuanzhai Alley are overly commercial, but these are just my personal opinions.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Humanistic Boutique Hotel
At first glance, 'Jiao (jiao) Liao (liao)'—I really didn't know how to pronounce these two characters. Seeing the introduction beside it, it seemed to be a hotel. Since I didn't have a place to stay yet, I decided to go in and take a look.
When the door opened, the long corridor in front deeply caught my eye.
'A winding path leads to a secluded spot, the meditation room is deep in flowers and trees; the mountain light pleases the birds, and the pool's reflection calms the heart.' Although it's not a meditation room, it surpasses one. Although there are no high mountains or water pools, the presence of flowers, trees, water, and birds creates a great atmosphere.
After stepping inside and experiencing everything about Jiaoliao, I instantly decided to stay here. After settling in, I was even more pleasantly surprised—it truly feels like a carefree retreat hidden in a bustling city.
This hotel is small, with only 10 rooms, but each room is nearly 100 square meters. Moreover, the entire hotel ensures excellent privacy, with considerate butler service that can arrange all big and small things. One unique feature is a small window called the butler service window, where small items like takeout or room supplies can be placed, ensuring complete privacy. It feels like home, without worrying about outside noise, allowing you to enjoy your own space peacefully.
Service is one aspect, but the hotel's hardware facilities are also very impressive. The overall layout and decoration of the room give a very comfortable feeling, and the style is traditional Chinese old-culture style, which I like.
Later, I learned from the butler that the hotel is centered on Zhuangzi culture, with an atmosphere of Zhuangzi's philosophy throughout. There are also many old objects, antiques, etc., creating a rich cultural ambiance.
Although I stayed only for a short day, I deeply felt the charm of Jiaoliao: small but exquisite, carefree and comfortable, with impressive environment, atmosphere, and service. If I visit Chengdu again, I will surely experience it again, to enjoy the charm of Jiaoliao.
Day 1 (2015.10.07): Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Estuary
At 7:00 AM, I gathered at the south gate of Baihuatan Park in Chengdu and took the Jiantu Westbound Bus to the Jiuzhaigou Estuary. The one-way ticket was 110 yuan per person, bookable through Ctrip, with a travel time of about 10 hours. The drop-off point was the Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, about 5 km from the scenic area entrance. Due to a landslide in Mao County, the bus detoured through Mianyang, adding an extra fee of 60 yuan per person. Alternatively, you can take a long-distance bus from Chadianzi or Xinnanmen Bus Station, with a ticket price of 141 yuan per person. Xinnanmen has more buses, but tickets can only be purchased 7 days in advance. The group lunch cost 25 yuan per person.
Day 2 (2015.10.08): Jiuzhaigou—Zechawa Gully Long Lake Section
Jiuzhaigou is named after nine Tibetan villages, including Shuzheng, Heye, and Zechawa. The developed scenic area is laid out in a Y-shape, combining walking and bus rides. The scenic area implements staggered visiting, so when you board the eco-friendly bus, you don't know which attraction you'll go to first—it might disrupt your plans.
'After visiting the Five Sacred Mountains, no other mountains impress; after visiting Huangshan, no other mountains compare; the landscape of Guilin is unmatched, but Jiuzhaigou's scenery surpasses Guilin; come to Jiuzhaigou to see the water, and after Jiuzhaigou, no other water compares.' Jiuzhaigou is beautiful, spiritual, and divine because of its water. Water is the soul of Jiuzhaigou, its lively spirit. The water of Jiuzhaigou is holy and elegant, mysterious and elusive, light and graceful, colorful, passionate, and peaceful. The six wonders—emerald lakes, layered waterfalls, colorful forests, snow peaks, Tibetan customs, and blue ice—have left the world this most precious treasure.
After entering the scenic area, I took the eco-friendly bus to Shuzheng Group Lakes, briefly stopped, then headed straight to Long Lake (Changhai). Long Lake is the highest and widest lake in Jiuzhaigou, with a dark blue surface. Its water source comes from melting snow on high mountains. It's strangely over 100 meters deep, shaped like an S. The lake is surrounded by lush forests and snow-capped peaks. Long Lake has no outlet, but during the summer rainy season, the water doesn't overflow; during both summer and winter droughts, it doesn't dry up. Hence, it's called an 'inexhaustible, leak-proof gourd.' Legend has it that monsters sometimes appear in Long Lake; in the 1980s, someone claimed to have seen giant aquatic animals there. Strangely, no fish live in Long Lake, adding more mystery to its winter.
Walk down the wooden plank road for about 1 km to reach Five Flower Lotus Lake (Wucai Chi), the essence of Jiuzhaigou's lakes. The upper half is turquoise, the lower half orange-red, the left side sky-blue, and the right side olive green. The lake grows aquatic plants like Spirogyra, Chara, and small ferns, as well as reeds, Equisetum, and Juncus. These aquatic communities have varying chlorophyll levels, and in the calcium-rich lake water, they display different colors. In the same lake, some waters are blue, some shallow green, some yellow, some pink... ever-changing, very beautiful! In winter, when everything is frozen, this colorful small pool doesn't freeze, a rare wonder. Legend says that Wucai Chi is where the goddess Semo combed her hair. Every day, the male god Dage would fetch water for her from Long Lake. Over time, Dage's feet created 189 steps on the cliff, and the rouge from Semo's face turned into this stunning colorful pond. Lovers believe that if they can descend the steps to the pond, silently make a wish, and then climb the 189 steps, they will love each other forever.
After visiting Wucai Chi, you have three options: first, take a bus from Wucai Chi station to other attractions; second, walk down the road or plank road to Upper Seasonal Lake, then return to Wucai Chi station (round trip about 20 minutes); third, hike back to Nuorilang Center. I chose the hiking route, which took about 4 hours with photo stops. Seasonal Lake is off the beaten path, so the scenery along the way is for you to experience. After reaching Nuorilang Center, I took a bus toward the exit and got off at Spark Sea (Huohuo Hai), then walked along the plank road to Reed Sea (Luhuai Hai). The sea is full of reeds, water birds flying, clear streams flowing, green ripples swaying, winding through the marshes—a typical watery landscape. In the middle of Reed Sea, there is a flowing water band that divides it into two halves. This water band has a jade-like luster and color, so it's called Jade Belt River. Legend says it was transformed from the belt of the goddess Wonuo Semo of Jiuzhaigou. On the cliffside of Reed Sea, due to weathering, there is a profile resembling the goddess.
Day 3 (2015.10.09): Jiuzhaigou—Rize Gully Primeval Forest Section
Sunshine, rain, pine forest, birdsong—these form a beauty different from Jiuzhaigou's water scenery. The uniform, sky-reaching pines and cypresses stand like solemn warriors guarding this beautiful nature. The temperature in the primeval forest is about 3°C lower, so keep warm! Walking down the plank road, you pass by Fangcao Hai and Swan Sea (Tian'e Hai).
Board a bus at Swan Sea and get off at Arrow Bamboo Sea (Jianzhu Hai). From there, you can walk to Five Flower Sea (Wuhua Hai). Arrow bamboo is a favorite food of giant pandas; Arrow Bamboo Sea is surrounded by arrow bamboo, hence its name. The lake is broad and long, with blue water. Reflections are clear, making it hard to tell if the mountains are in the water or the water is soaking the mountains. In Arrow Bamboo Sea, there are many calcified dead trees forming strange coral trees, and on the dead wood, new trees grow—a phenomenon called 'dead wood regeneration' or 'renewal trees.' On calm days, you can enjoy the reflections in Arrow Bamboo Sea, second only to Mirror Sea (Jing Hai) for reflections.
Panda Sea (Xiongmao Hai) and Arrow Bamboo Sea are sister lakes. The rock textures on the lakeside cliffs are unique, reflected in the lake, and together with round white stones underwater with black patterns like pandas, they form an interesting scene. Remember, don't take a bus from Panda Sea to Five Flower Sea; you must walk along the road or plank road. At Tiger's Mouth (Laohu Zui), you'll see the most beautiful Five Flower Sea. Alas, I forgot and missed it—what a pity!
Five Flower Sea is the pride of Jiuzhaigou. In the same water area, it shows colors like goose yellow, dark green, deep blue, and navy, mottled and brilliant. Nature's bold and varied colors are applied with great intensity and change. Viewed from above at Tiger's Mouth, it looks like a peacock with full plumage spreading its tail. In sunlight, the lake becomes even more dazzling, colorful, and bizarre, transporting you to a fairy tale world. The ever-changing brocade of the lake intoxicates and enchants. Through the clear water, you can see springs bubbling on the lake floor, making your head spin. As mountain breezes blow, various colors interpenetrate, embed, mix, and dye, making Five Flower Sea come alive with energy and movement.
Take a bus to Pearl Shoal Waterfall (Zhenzhutan Pubu). In a sense, it's similar to Luositan Waterfall in the Huangguoshu Waterfall group. It's not entirely a cliff-falling waterfall; instead, there's a sloping surface of about 20-30 degrees. The waterfall first flows slowly over the shoal. Because the shoal is made of travertine with small scale-like undulations, the thin layer of water glistens like thousands of pearls under sunlight, hence the name Pearl Shoal. The water flows relatively slowly, and the shoal is fairly flat, so visitors can take off their shoes and walk barefoot. However, the water comes from snowmelt, so it's cold—even in midsummer, walking on Pearl Shoal feels chilling and makes you shiver.
Continue downward to Mirror Sea (Jing Hai), with steep valley slopes, dense forests, and seasonal color changes in the forest belts. At dawn or with morning sunlight, the lake is as smooth as a mirror. Blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and nearby trees are all reflected in the lake, with clear images, distinct lines, vivid colors, and rich variations. The fantastic scene of 'fish swimming in the sky above, birds flying in the water below' makes people intoxicated. By the lake, a thick vine tightly climbs a towering tree, reaching the same height. The tree gives the vine endless cool shade, and the vine gives the tree beautiful pure love. Hence, Mirror Sea is also called 'Love Park.'
Passing Mirror Sea, you reach Nuorilang Waterfall. 'You carry the load, I lead the horse'—which role would you like to play? The opening scene of Journey to the West was filmed here. 'Nuorilang' is a Tibetan transliteration meaning 'male god,' symbolizing grandeur. So Nuorilang Waterfall means a majestic waterfall. The roaring water comes from Nuorilang Group Lakes and falls from the top, like the Milky Way descending, thundering through the valley. The southern part has strong water flow, chilling, and rising mist. Under the morning sun, rainbows often span the valley, adding charm to the waterfall. In autumn, the 300-meter fall, against autumn colors and clouds, creates a magnificent scene.
Finally, you arrive at another major waterfall in Jiuzhaigou—Shuzheng Waterfall. The splashing waterfall with snow-like waves contrasts sharply with the ancient, gnarled trees—one dynamic, one static—yet they form a harmonious natural picture. Some describe the beauty of Shuzheng Waterfall as: the curved trunks of lush, green ancient trees half submerged in the waterfall, letting the white water wash over them, like goddesses with flowing hair and bare bodies bathing joyfully in holy water. Nature's wonders can sometimes make you feel as if you're in the Garden of Eden!
Day 4 (2015.10.10): Huanglong One-Day Tour
At 7:00 AM, I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot to the Huanglong cable car entrance, with a round-trip ticket price of 80 yuan per person. The journey took about 2.5 hours, with a stop at an altitude sickness explanation station where they popularize knowledge and sell medicine, but without compulsion. The sightseeing time was about 6 hours. Alternatively, you can buy tickets for Huanglong at Jiuzhaigou Bus Station, round-trip 90 yuan per person, with only two departures at 7:00 and 7:30, and the return departure time needs to be inquired upon arrival.
Huanglong Scenic Area is known as 'The Fairyland on Earth' because of its many colorful pools that change color with the surrounding scenery and sunlight angle. The main scenic area, Huanglong Gully, resembles a 'dragon' in the Chinese mind, hence it has always been called 'The Fairyland on Earth' and 'Symbol of China.' It is revered by local ethnic villagers, and Tibetans call it 'Dongri·Se'erjun,' meaning the eastern conch mountain (referring to Xuebao Mountain) and golden lakes (referring to Huanglong Gully).
Day 5 (2015.10.11): Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu
At 7:00 AM, I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot back to Chengdu via Mao County, with a one-way ticket price of 120 yuan per person and a journey of about 8 hours. The drop-off point was at Chadianzi Station in Chengdu.
Because of the weather, I wasn't very satisfied with this Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong trip, but in life's journey, can everything be smooth? Whether reading ten thousand books, traveling ten thousand miles, or meeting countless people, we continuously improve ourselves through perception and change, ultimately reaching the highest state where form is emptiness and emptiness is form. Emptiness is not nothingness; it is understanding impermanence without clinging to things, like the moon in water or flowers in a mirror—a manifestation of great wisdom. As stated in the Sutra of Impermanence: 'Worldly things have no form; form arises from the mind. What is seen is not real; what is felt is not true. All things are empty, but the mind's hindrances make ordinary people feel trapped everywhere. Only by transforming one's worldly views can one achieve selflessness. I am the world, and the world is me.'
Notes and Suggestions:
1. Waterproof jacket and pants, and waterproof hiking boots are essential; in light rain, no need for an umbrella or raincoat.
2. Start taking medicine to prevent altitude sickness two weeks in advance. In high-altitude areas, drink plenty of water and rest.
3. Book tickets online whenever possible to avoid carrying too much cash. Jiuzhaigou ticket + eco-bus: 310 yuan per person; online ticket collection is convenient. Huanglong ticket + uphill cable car: 280 yuan per person; recommend using the uphill cable car to save time. I spent a lot of time taking photos, so 6 hours was a bit rushed.
4. For hiking, travel light and bring some high-energy food like chocolate, Snickers, beef jerky, etc. Small spots within Jiuzhaigou usually sell self-heating boxed meals for 25 yuan each. When you see them around mealtime, buy one to refuel. Don't eat the set meals at Nuorilang Center—they are overpriced and not worth it. Save your appetite for Chengdu. Huanglong has a Dujuanlin service station with decent food at reasonable prices; usually, you can reach it around 13:30. Options include highland barley cake, fried rice, and local eggs, etc.
5. Entering the valley twice gives more time for sightseeing and photography. However, if you take the bus all the way, and like to get up early, you can plan to see all of Jiuzhaigou in one day. You can also charter a private car within Jiuzhaigou for staggered visiting, at an additional 210 yuan per person; strongly recommended for those aiming only to say they've been there.
6. The prices of restaurants outside the Jiuzhaigou scenic area are generally similar, except for snacks like wontons, which vary. Ordinary grilled fish costs 68 or 88 yuan per piece; don't be fooled by promises of extra side dishes—they are already part of the grilled fish. Average cost per person is around 50 yuan. For a solo diner, I suggest fried rice with stir-fried wild vegetables or grilled fish.
7. Taxis or unlicensed cabs within the scenic area charge 10-40 yuan, negotiable.
8. The Mao County section is prone to landslides. If traveling by road, be prepared. On my return trip, I encountered a small landslide that took at least 6 hours to clear. If you get stuck on a stretch without restaurants, you'll have to go hungry, and it might affect your subsequent plans.
9. I am a bit lazy—I entered the valley after 9:00 AM each day and exited around 7:00 PM. I walked a lot, so the schedule was still a bit tight!
10. Some plank roads on the Long Lake to Nuorilang section are damaged; please be careful. It's not recommended to take that plank road.
11. Maintain a good mindset—the scenery you see may not be what you imagined. All things change; only the mind remains unchanged.
12. Accommodation prices at the estuary vary greatly; sometimes booking online in advance can be more expensive. If there's a cheap option online, go ahead. I booked a standard room for 133 yuan per night. Most hotels offer pick-up service; please check with your hotel. Some hotels do not provide disposable toiletries!
