Meticulously Recording My Spring Trip to Jiuzhaigou
Jiuzhaigou is located in Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. It is hailed as a 'fairy tale world, paradise on earth.' Photos from various magazines show that autumn is the best time to visit Jiuzhaigou, with brilliant and rich colors, colorful forests contrasting with snow-capped peaks, boardwalks winding through the colors into a romantic atmosphere, the passionate splashing of waterfalls, and the surreal beauty of the alpine lakes. Everyone who comes to Jiuzhaigou is enchanted by its autumn scenery, like a maiden in full dress. Worries and nostalgia drift away unexpectedly, giving rise to inner peace.
I arrived in Chengdu from Shanghai ahead of time and rested there for a day. Since airfare from Shanghai to Chengdu during Golden Week was expensive and the discount flights had inconvenient schedules, I chose to take the D2206 bullet train, departing at 06:39, with a travel time of about 15 hours and a ticket price of 606 yuan. The train started at Hongqiao Railway Station and ended at Chengdu East Station. Bringing a book along makes the journey less lonely. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Huanglong; all require a transfer, so spending some time in Chengdu to explore or rest is a good option. I stayed at the Jiaoliao Boutique Hotel of Humanities in Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right in Kuanzhai Alley, surrounded by many local snacks. Upon leaving the hotel, you can find grilled skewers, trotters, wontons (in red oil), and various noodles with toppings. On Hongwasi Street, two distinctive shops are Huaxi Beef Rice Noodles and Zizhong Rabbit Noodles. Near the famed north gate of Sichuan University, you can buy ice jelly (three-flavor, without glutinous rice balls), pot helmets (pork-filled), and egg-baked cakes (mixed flavors). Near the Gonghe Village area, at the bottom of a commercial building, there is Old Spicy Wontons (order the old spicy), Bobo Chicken (skewers), and Li Hua Dumplings. Near Jiuyan Bridge is a bar street for those who enjoy nightlife; you can have late-night snacks like Zizi Grilled Fish. Also, go near West Avenue New City Plaza to eat Tan Tofu Pudding and Ginger Trotters, and don’t forget to order a serving of Sweet Noodles and Zhong Dumplings – they are delicious! Don’t ask why you must go there; just go! As for attractions in Chengdu, Jinsha Site and Sanxingdui Site are must-sees; Wuhou Shrine is standard, Du Fu Thatched Cottage is not worth the price, Sichuan Museum has no really good collections; Jinli and Kuanzhai Alley are overly commercialized. These are just my personal opinions for reference.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Boutique Hotel of Humanities
At first glance, I didn’t know how to pronounce 'Jiaoliao.' Seeing the sign that it was a hotel, and needing a place to stay, I decided to go in for a look.
When the gate opened, the long corridor in front caught my eye deeply.
'A winding path leads to a secluded spot, a meditation room deep in flowers and trees; the mountain light delights the birds, the pond’s reflection calms the mind.' Although it’s not a meditation room, it surpasses one. Though there are no high mountains or water ponds, the flowers, trees, water, and birds create a very poetic atmosphere.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Boutique Hotel of Humanities
After experiencing everything about Jiaoliao, I immediately decided to stay. And after settling in, it brought me even more surprises. It truly feels like a secluded retreat hidden in a bustling city.
This hotel is small, with only 10 rooms. But each room is nearly 100 square meters. The privacy is excellent, with a personal butler service that can arrange everything from big matters to small ones. A special feature is a small window called the butler service window, where small items like takeout or room supplies can be placed without intrusion, ensuring complete privacy. It’s like being at home, without worrying about outside noise, allowing you to enjoy your own space peacefully.
Aside from the service, the hotel’s hardware facilities are also very good. The overall room decoration and layout give a very comfortable feeling, with a traditional Chinese cultural style that I like.
Later, the butler told me that the hotel is centered on Zhuangzi’s philosophy. The entire hotel is imbued with the atmosphere of Zhuangzi’s culture, with many old objects and antiques, creating a rich cultural ambiance.
Although I stayed only one short day, I deeply felt the charm of Jiaoliao. The hotel is small but exquisite, carefree and comfortable. The environment, atmosphere, and service are all impressive. If I come to Chengdu again, I will surely visit again to experience the charm of Jiaoliao.
Day 1 (2015.10.07): Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Entrance
At 7:00 a.m., I gathered at the south gate of Baihuatan Park in Chengdu and took the Jiantu Westbound Bus to Jiuzhaigou entrance. The one-way ticket was 110 yuan per person, bookable on Ctrip. The bus ride took about 10 hours, and the drop-off point was the Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, about 5 kilometers from the scenic area entrance. Due to a landslide in Mao County, we detoured through Mianyang, adding an extra 60 yuan per person. Alternatively, you can take a long-distance bus from Chadianzi or Xinnanmen bus station, with tickets at 141 yuan per person. Xinnanmen has more departures, but tickets can only be bought 7 days in advance. Lunch on the bus was a group meal at 25 yuan per person.
Day 2 (2015.10.08): Jiuzhaigou – Zechawa Gully Long Lake Section
Jiuzhaigou gets its name from nine Tibetan villages including Shuzheng, Heye, and Zechawa. The developed scenic area is laid out in a Y-shape, and sightseeing combines walking and bus rides. The park implements staggered visiting times; when you board an eco-friendly bus, you don’t know which scenic spot you’ll be taken to first, which may disrupt your plans.
'After visiting the Five Sacred Mountains, no other mountains are worth seeing; after visiting Huangshan, no other mountains compare. Guilin’s landscapes are the finest under heaven, but Jiuzhaigou’s scenery surpasses Guilin. Come to Jiuzhaigou for the water; after Jiuzhaigou, no other waters are worth seeing.' Jiuzhaigou is beautiful, spiritual, and magical because of its water. Water is the soul of Jiuzhaigou, the lively spirit. The water here is holy and elegant, mysterious and dreamlike, light and ethereal, colorful and brilliant, passionate and surging, yet also peaceful and serene. The six wonders – emerald lakes, cascading waterfalls, colorful forests, snow peaks, Tibetan customs, and blue ice – are the most precious treasures left to the world.
After entering the park, the eco-friendly bus made a brief stop at Shuzheng Qun Lake and then headed straight to Long Lake (Changhai). Long Lake is the highest and widest lake in Jiuzhaigou. Its surface is dark blue, fed by melted snow from high mountains. Strangely, the lake is over 100 meters deep, stretches in an S-shape, surrounded by lush green forests and permanently snow-capped peaks. Long Lake has no outlet, yet during the rainy season the water does not overflow, and in prolonged droughts it does not dry up. Hence, it is called 'the magic gourd that cannot be filled or emptied.' Legend has it that monsters occasionally appear in Long Lake; in the 1980s, someone claimed to have seen a giant aquatic creature. Curiously, the vast lake has no fish, adding to its mystery in winter.
Walking down the wooden boardwalk for about 1 kilometer leads to Five Flower Pond (Wucai Chi). This pond is the essence of Jiuzhaigou’s lakes. Its upper part is azure, the lower part orange-red, the left side sky blue, and the right side olive green. Aquatic plants such as Spirogyra, Chara, and small ferns grow in the lake, along with reeds, jointed grass, and rushes. The varying chlorophyll content in these plant communities, combined with the calcium carbonate-rich water, produces different colors. In the same lake, some areas are deep blue, others light green, some reddish-yellow, and some pinkish-blue – ever-changing and stunning! In winter, when the area is frozen, this colorful pond does not freeze, which is quite remarkable. Legend has it that Five Flower Pond was where the goddess Semo combed her hair. Every day, the god Dage fetched water for her from Long Lake. Over time, Dage’s feet wore 189 steps into the cliff, and the rouge from Semo’s face became this dazzling pond. Lovers believe that if they descend the steps to the pond, make a silent wish, and climb back up the 189 steps, their love will last forever.
Today’s highlight: after visiting Five Flower Pond, you have three choices: first, board a bus from the Five Flower Pond station to other attractions; second, walk along the road or boardwalk downhill to Upper Seasonal Lake, explore it, then return to Five Flower Pond to catch a bus (round trip about 20 minutes); third, hike back to Nuorilang Center. I chose the hiking route, taking about 4 hours with stops for photos. Seasonal Lake is a less popular spot; you have to experience the scenery along the way for yourself. After reaching Nuorilang Center, I took a bus toward the exit and got off at Spark Lake (Huohua Hai), then walked along the boardwalk toward Reed Lake (Luwei Hai). The lake is filled with reeds, waterfowl flying, clear streams, green ripples, and a winding, spacious marshland scene. In the middle of Reed Lake is a graceful ribbon of water winding through the reeds, dividing the lake into two halves. This ribbon, with the luster of fine jade, is called Jade Belt River (Yu Dai He). Legend says it was formed from the belt of the mountain goddess Wunuo Semo. On the cliff beside Reed Lake, due to weathering, there is a rock formation resembling the goddess’s head.
Day 3 (2015.10.09): Jiuzhaigou – Rize Gully Primeval Forest Section
Sunlight, rain, pine forests, and birdsong create a beauty in the primeval forest different from Jiuzhaigou’s waters. The neat, towering pines and cypresses stand like solemn warriors guarding this beautiful nature. The temperature in the primeval forest is about 3 degrees Celsius lower, so keep warm! Walking down the boardwalk, you can pass by Fragrant Grass Lake (Fangcao Hai) and Swan Lake (Tian’e Hai).
I took a bus from Swan Lake to Arrow Bamboo Lake (Jianzhu Hai) and then walked to Five Flower Lake (Wuhua Hai). Arrow bamboo is a favorite food of pandas. Arrow Bamboo Lake is named for the abundant arrow bamboo growing along its shores. The lake is broad and long, with blue water. The reflections are so clear that you can’t tell whether the mountains are entering the water or the water is soaking the mountains. In the lake, many submerged logs have been calcified, forming peculiar coral trees, and new trees grow on the decaying wood – a phenomenon called 'rotting wood renewal' or 'dead wood coming to life.' On windless days, you can enjoy the reflections in Arrow Bamboo Lake, one of the best reflection spots after Mirror Lake.
Panda Lake (Xiongmao Hai) and Arrow Bamboo Lake are sister lakes. The rock texture on the lakeshore is unique, and its reflection in the water, together with naturally patterned round white stones underwater that look like pandas, creates a delightful scene. Remember not to take a bus from Panda Lake to Five Flower Lake; you must walk along the road or boardwalk. At Tiger’s Mouth (Laohu Zui), you will see the most beautiful Five Flower Lake. Alas, I forgot and missed this view – what a pity!
Five Flower Lake is the pride of Jiuzhaigou. In the same body of water, colors appear as yellowish, dark green, deep blue, and navy, mottled and colorful. The bold, intense, and varied colors applied by nature’s brush create a dreamlike effect. Viewed from Tiger’s Mouth, the lake looks like a peacock with full feathers, spreading its tail. When the sun shines, the lake becomes even more enchanting and colorful. The ever-changing brocade of the lake leaves people infatuated. Through the clear water, you can see springs bubbling up from the bottom, dizzying the eyes. As the mountain breeze blows, the colors intermingle, embed, mix, and dye, making Five Flower Lake come alive.
Take a bus to Pearl Shoal Waterfall (Zhenzhutan Pubu). In a sense, it resembles the Luositan Waterfall in Huangguoshu Waterfall group. It is not entirely a cliff-falling drop; rather, it has an upstream shoal with a slope of about 20 degrees. The water first flows gently over the shoal, which is composed of travertine with scaly micro-ridges. When the thin layer of water flows over, under sunlight, it sparkles like thousands of pearls, hence the name Pearl Shoal. Because the current is relatively gentle and the shoal flat, visitors can walk barefoot on it. However, since the water comes from melted snow, it is cold, and even in summer, walking on Pearl Shoal feels chilly and makes one shiver.
Continuing downhill, you arrive at Mirror Lake (Jing Hai), where the valley slopes are steep, forests dense, and the forest’s color changes with the seasons, creating rich layers. At dawn or when the sun’s rays shine, the lake is as flat as a mirror. Blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and nearby trees are all reflected on the lake bottom; the underwater scenery is clear, with distinct lines, vibrant colors, and variety. The fantastic phenomenon of 'fish swimming in the sky, birds flying underwater' intoxicates viewers. On the lakeside, a thick vine as wide as a bowl tightly wraps around a giant tree, reaching the same height, soaring into the sky. The tree gives the vine endless shade, and the vine gives the tree beautiful and pure love. Thus, Mirror Lake is also called Lovers’ Park.
Passing Mirror Lake, you reach Nuorilang Waterfall (Nuorilang Pubu). 'You carry the load, I lead the horse' – which role do you want to play? The opening scene of Journey to the West was filmed here. 'Nuorilang' is a Tibetan transliteration meaning 'male god,' symbolizing grandeur. So Nuorilang Waterfall means a majestic waterfall. The torrent comes from Nuorilang Qun Hai, pouring down from the top like a Milky Way, thundering through the valley. The southern end is vast and cold, with rising mist. In the morning light, rainbows often span the valley, enchanting the waterfall. In autumn, the 300-meter cascade, framed by autumn colors and clouds, becomes a magnificent picture.
Finally, you reach another major waterfall in Jiuzhaigou – Shuzheng Waterfall (Shuzheng Pubu). The waterfall, with its snow-white waves, and the ancient, weathered trees – one moving, one still – create a strong contrast yet combine into a harmonious natural painting. Some describe the unique beauty of Shuzheng Waterfall: the curved trunks of lush ancient trees half-submerged in the waterfall, washed by the whitewater, like fairies with flowing hair and bare bodies bathing in holy water. Nature’s wonders can sometimes make you feel as if you are in the Garden of Eden!
Day 4 (2015.10.10): Huanglong One-Day Tour
At 7:00 a.m., I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot to the Huanglong cable car entrance. The round-trip ticket was 80 yuan per person, with a travel time of about 2.5 hours. The bus stopped at a high-altitude sickness education station to provide information and sell medicine, but it was not mandatory. Visiting time was about 6 hours. Alternatively, Jiuzhaigou Bus Station sells tickets to Huanglong for 90 yuan per person round-trip, with only two departures at 7:00 and 7:30 a.m., and the return time must be confirmed upon arrival at Huanglong.
Huanglong Scenic Area is known as the 'Fairyland on Earth' because of its many colorful ponds that change hues with the surrounding scenery and sunlight. The main scenic area, Huanglong Gully, resembles the image of the 'dragon' in Chinese minds, thus it has always been called the 'Fairyland on Earth' and 'Symbol of China.' It is revered by local ethnic groups; Tibetans call it 'Dongri Serjün,' meaning 'Eastern Conch Mountain (referring to Xuebao Mountain) and Golden Lake (referring to Huanglong Gully).'
Day 5 (2015.10.11): Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu
At 7:00 a.m., I took the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Dream Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot back to Chengdu via Mao County. The one-way ticket was 120 yuan per person, and the journey took about 8 hours. The bus dropped passengers at Chengdu Chadianzi Station.
Because of the weather, I was not entirely satisfied with this trip to Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong. But in the journey of life, how can everything go smoothly? Whether reading ten thousand books, traveling ten thousand miles, or meeting countless people, we continually improve ourselves through change and perception, ultimately reaching the highest state where form is emptiness and emptiness is form. Emptiness is not nothingness; it is understanding impermanence without clinging to things, like the moon in water or a flower in a mirror – a manifestation of great wisdom. As the Sutra of Impermanence says: 'Worldly things have no form; form arises from the mind. What can be seen is not real; what can be felt is not real. Things and events are empty, they are but mental obstructions. The ordinary mind sees prisons everywhere; only by transforming the world can one reach selflessness. I am the world, and the world is me.'
Notes and Suggestions:
1. Waterproof jacket and pants, and waterproof hiking boots are essential. In light rain, you won’t need an umbrella or raincoat.
2. Start taking medicine to prevent altitude sickness two weeks before entering high-altitude areas. Drink plenty of water and rest.
3. Book tickets online whenever possible to avoid carrying too much cash. Jiuzhaigou entrance + eco-bus: 310 yuan per person; online ticket collection is convenient. Huanglong entrance + uphill cable car: 280 yuan per person; the uphill cable car is recommended to save time. Since I spent a lot of time photographing, 6 hours was a bit rushed.
4. For hikers, pack light and carry some high-energy snacks like chocolate, Snickers, or beef jerky. Small snack spots inside Jiuzhaigou sell self-heating boxed meals for 25 yuan per box; buy one when you see it to refuel. The set meals at Nuorilang Center are not cost-effective; save your appetite for returning to Chengdu. Huanglong has a Azalea Forest service area with reasonable prices; normally you can arrive around 13:30 – try the barley cake, fried rice, and local eggs plus instant noodles.
5. The advantage of entering the scenic area twice is that you have ample time for sightseeing and photography. Of course, if you take buses the whole time, wake up early, and plan well, it’s possible to see all of Jiuzhaigou in one day. Inside Jiuzhaigou, you can also charter a private vehicle for staggered visits at an additional 210 yuan per person; strongly recommended for those who just want a quick visit.
6. Restaurant prices outside Jiuzhaigou are generally similar, except for snacks and wontons, which vary in price. Standard grilled fish: 68 or 88 yuan per fish; don’t be fooled by offers of side dishes – those are typically just accompaniments for the fish. Average cost per person around 50 yuan. For a solo eater, I recommend fried rice with stir-fried wild vegetables or grilled fish.
7. Taxis or unlicensed taxis inside the scenic area charge 10–40 yuan, negotiable.
8. The Mao County section is prone to landslides. If traveling by bus, be prepared. On my return trip, I encountered a small landslide that took at least 6 hours to clear. If you get stuck in a section without restaurants, you may go hungry and it could affect your subsequent itinerary.
9. I’m quite lazy; I entered the park after 9 a.m. and left around 7 p.m., spending a lot of time on foot. Still, the schedule was a bit tight!
10. Some boardwalks between Long Lake and Nuorilang in Jiuzhaigou are damaged; please be careful. This section is not recommended for walking.
11. Keep a good attitude. The scenery you see may not be what you imagined; everything changes, only the mind remains unchanged.
12. Accommodation prices near the entrance are flexible; sometimes booking online in advance can be more expensive. If there is a good deal online, book it. I booked a standard room at 133 yuan per night. Most hotels offer pickup service; check with your hotel. Some hotels do not provide disposable toiletries!
