My Spring Trip to Jiuzhaigou
Jiuzhaigou is located in Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. It is known as a 'fairy tale world, paradise on earth'. From photos in various magazines, it's clear that golden autumn is the best time to visit Jiuzhaigou, with brilliant and rich colors, colorful forests reflecting off snow peaks, plank roads winding through the colors into a romantic mood, passionate waterfalls, and surreal lakes, making visitors fall for the autumn beauty of Jiuzhaigou as if enchanted by a maiden in full dress, with worries and nostalgia disappearing and inner peace emerging.
I arrived in Chengdu from Shanghai a day early and rested there. During Golden Week, flights from Shanghai to Chengdu were expensive, and discount flight times were not ideal, so I took the D2206 bullet train, departing at 06:39, taking about 15 hours, costing 606 yuan. The train started at Hongqiao Railway Station and ended at Chengdu East Station. Bringing a book made the journey less lonely. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Huanglong, so a transfer is needed. Therefore, it's a good choice to first visit or rest in Chengdu. I stayed at the Jiaoliao Humanistic Boutique Hotel in Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right inside Kuanzhai Alley, with many snacks nearby. After leaving the hotel, I could eat grilled skewers, pig trotters, wontons in chili oil, and various noodle toppings. On Hongwasi Street, distinctive shops include Huaxi Beef Noodles and Zizhong Rabbit Noodles. Near the famous Sichuan University North Gate, there are ice jelly (three-fresh flavor, without glutinous rice balls), meat pies, and egg-filled cakes (special flavor). Near Gonghe Village, at the bottom of a commercial building, there is Laoma Wontons (extra spicy), Sliced Chicken in Chili Sauce (skewers), Li Hua Dumplings, etc. Near Jiuyan Bridge is a bar street. If you love nightlife, you can have fun. For a late-night snack, try Ziyu Grilled Fish. Also, go to Tan Bean Curd and Jiang Pig Trotters near the New City Plaza on West Street. Don't forget to order a serving of Sweet Noodles and Zhong Dumplings—they're really delicious! Don't ask why you must go there; just go! As for attractions in Chengdu, Jinsha Site and Sanxingdui Site are must-visits. Wuhou Shrine is average, Du Fu Thatched Cottage is not worth the price, and Sichuan Museum genuinely has few good collections. Jinli and Kuanzhai Alley have a strong commercial atmosphere. These are my personal opinions, just for reference.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Humanistic Boutique Hotel
'Jiao Liao'—at first, I didn't know how to pronounce these two characters. Seeing the introduction nearby, it seemed to be a hotel, and since I didn't have a place to stay, I decided to take a look.
When the door opened, the long corridor in front deeply caught my attention.
'A winding path leads to a secluded spot, with a meditation room surrounded by flowers and trees. Mountain light delights the birds, and the pool's reflection empties the mind.' Although it was not a meditation room, it was even more so. Though there were no high mountains or water pools, there were flowers, trees, water, and birds, making it quite atmospheric.
Chengdu Jiaoliao Humanistic Boutique Hotel
Upon entering and experiencing everything about Jiaoliao, I immediately decided to stay here. After settling in, I was even more pleasantly surprised. It truly felt like a peaceful retreat hidden in a bustling city.
This hotel is small, with only 10 rooms, but each room is nearly 100 square meters. The entire hotel is exceptionally private, with attentive private butler service that can arrange everything from big to small matters. Another feature is a small window called the butler service window for inconvenient times. Small items like takeout and room supplies can be placed inside, ensuring complete privacy—like being at home, without worrying about outside noise, allowing you to enjoy your own space peacefully.
Service aside, the hotel's hardware is also excellent. The room's decoration and layout give a very comfortable feeling. The entire style is traditional Chinese culture, which is my favorite style.
Later, the butler told me that the hotel is centered on Zhuangzi's culture, with a strong cultural atmosphere throughout, including many old objects and antiques.
Although I only stayed for one day, I deeply felt the charm of Jiaoliao. The hotel is small but exquisite, leisurely and comfortable. The environment, atmosphere, and service are all impressive. If I come to Chengdu again, I will definitely experience the charm of Jiaoliao once more.
Day 1 (Oct 7, 2015): Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Entrance
At 7:00 AM, I gathered at the south gate of Baihuatan Park in Chengdu and took the Jiantu Westbound bus to Jiuzhaigou entrance. The one-way ticket cost 110 yuan/person, bookable on Ctrip, with a travel time of about 10 hours. The drop-off point was Menghuan Jiuzhai Parking Lot, about 5 km from the scenic area entrance. Due to a landslide in Mao County, we detoured through Mianyang, adding 60 yuan/person. Alternatively, you can take a long-distance bus from Chadianzi or Xin’nanmen bus station, priced at 141 yuan/person. Xin’nanmen has more departures, but tickets can only be purchased 7 days in advance. Lunch on the way was a group meal at 25 yuan/person.
Day 2 (Oct 8, 2015): Jiuzhaigou—Zechawa Gully Long Lake Section
Jiuzhaigou gets its name from nine Tibetan villages: Shuzheng, Heye, Zechawa, etc. The developed scenic area is shaped like a 'Y', combining walking and bus rides. The scenic area implements staggered visiting times; when you board the eco-friendly bus, you don't know which attraction you'll go to first, which might disrupt your plans.
'After visiting the Five Sacred Mountains, no other mountains are worth seeing; after returning from Mount Huang, no other mountains compare; Guilin's mountains and waters are the best under heaven; Jiuzhaigou's scenery surpasses Guilin's.' Coming to Jiuzhaigou is for the water. Water is the soul of Jiuzhaigou, its spirit, and its essence. Jiuzhaigou's water is sacred, elegant, mysterious, light, drifting, colorful, passionate, and peaceful. The six wonders—emerald lakes, layered waterfalls, colorful forests, snow peaks, Tibetan customs, and blue ice—are the most precious treasures left to the world.
After entering the scenic area, we boarded the eco-friendly bus, paused briefly at Shuzheng Qunhai, and then headed straight to Long Lake. Long Lake is the highest and widest lake in Jiuzhaigou, with dark blue water sourced from melted snow on high mountains. Oddly, the lake is over 100 meters deep, shaped like an S, surrounded by lush forests and snow-capped peaks all year. Long Lake has no outlet, yet during summer rains, it doesn't overflow, and during winter drought, it doesn't dry up. Thus, it is called 'a gourd that can't be filled or emptied.' Legend has it that monsters sometimes appear in Long Lake. In the 1980s, someone claimed to have seen giant aquatic animals there. But strangely, there are no fish in this vast lake. These mysteries add more mystique to Long Lake in winter.
Walking down the wooden plank path for about 1 km leads to Five Color Pond, the essence of Jiuzhaigou's lakes. Its upper part is turquoise blue, the lower part orange-red, the left sky blue, and the right olive green. The pond grows aquatic plant communities like spirogyra, chara, and small ferns, along with reeds, horsetails, and water lamp rushes. These communities have different chlorophyll levels, displaying various colors in calcium-rich waters. In the same lake, some areas are deep blue, some shallow green, some yellowish, some pinkish-blue... ever-changing and stunning! In winter, when the surroundings are icy and snowy, this colorful little pond doesn't freeze, which is quite extraordinary. Legend says Five Color Pond is where the goddess Semo combed her hair. The god Dage brought water for her from Long Lake every day. Over time, Dage's feet carved 189 steps on the cliff, and the rouge washed from Semo's face became this stunning pond. Lovers believe that if you go down the steps to the pond, make a silent wish, and climb back up the 189 steps, you will be together forever.
Today's highlight: after visiting Five Color Pond, you have three choices: 1) take a bus from Five Color Pond station to other attractions; 2) walk down along the road or plank path to Upper Seasonal Lake, then return to Five Color Pond station (20 minutes one way); 3) hike back to Nuorilang Center. I chose to hike, taking about 4 hours to view and photograph. Seasonal Lake is a less popular spot; you have to experience the scenery along the way yourself. After arriving at Nuorilang Center, I took a bus toward the exit, got off at Spark Lake station, then walked along the plank path to Reed Lake. The lake is full of reeds, water birds flying, clear streams flowing, green waves swaying, winding along—a beautiful marsh scene. In the middle of Reed Lake, there is a floating water belt that winds through the reeds, dividing the lake into two halves. This belt has the luster and color of jade, so it's called Jade Belt River. Legend says this beautiful river is formed from the belt of the mountain goddess Wunuo Semo. On the cliff beside Reed Lake, due to weathering, a rock formation resembles the goddess's head.
Day 3 (Oct 9, 2015): Jiuzhaigou—Rize Gully Primeval Forest Section
Sunshine, rain, pine forests, birdsong—these make the primeval forest's beauty different from Jiuzhaigou's water scenery. Neat and towering pines and cypresses stand like solemn and majestic soldiers guarding this beautiful nature. The temperature in the primeval forest is about 3°C lower, so keep warm! Walking down the plank path, you pass by Grass Lake and Swan Lake.
At Swan Lake, board the bus and get off at Arrow Bamboo Lake, then hike down to Five Flower Lake. Arrow bamboo is panda's favorite food; the banks of Arrow Bamboo Lake are covered with arrow bamboo, its biggest feature. Arrow Bamboo Lake is wide and long, with clear blue water. Reflections are so clear that you can't tell whether the mountains are in the water or the water is on the mountains. In the lake, many calcified driftwood forms strange coral trees, and on the dead wood, new trees grow, called 'dead wood renews' or 'dry wood meets spring' and 'regeneration trees.' When there is no wind, you can enjoy reflections in Arrow Bamboo Lake—second only to Mirror Lake.
Panda Lake and Arrow Bamboo Lake are sister lakes. The rock textures on the lakeside are unique, reflected in the water. At the bottom, there are natural round white stones with black patterns that look like pandas—quite interesting. Remember, don't take a bus from Panda Lake to Five Flower Lake; you must walk along the road or plank path. At Tiger Mouth, you will see the most beautiful Five Flower Lake. Alas, I forgot and missed this view—what a pity!
Five Flower Lake is the pride of Jiuzhaigou. The same water shows colors like yellow-green, dark green, deep blue, and indigo, mottled and brilliant. Nature's colors are so bold, intense, and varied. Viewed from Tiger Mouth, it looks like a full-feathered peacock spreading its tail. When sunlight hits, the lake becomes more dazzling, colorful, and surreal, entering a fairy tale world. The ever-changing brocade of the lake fascinates and intoxicates. Through the clear water, you can see springs bubbling on the bottom. A mountain breeze makes the colors intermingle, embed, interlace, and dye, making Five Flower Lake lively and vibrant.
Take the bus to Pearl Shoal Waterfall. In a sense, it resembles Luosi Shoal Waterfall in Huangguoshu Waterfall group. It's not entirely a waterfall falling off a cliff; above it, there is a shoal at an angle of about 20 degrees. The water flows slowly over the shoal. Because the shoal is composed of travertine with tiny scale-like undulations, when the thin water layer flows over it, under sunlight, it sparkles like thousands of pearls—hence the name Pearl Shoal. Because the water flow is slow and the terrain is gentle, visitors can take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the shoal. However, the water is melted snow from the mountains, so it is quite cold. Even in midsummer, walking on Pearl Shoal gives a chilling sensation.
Continue down to Mirror Lake, with steep slopes, dense forests, and seasonal color changes. In the early morning or at sunset, the lake is like a mirror. Blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and nearby trees are all reflected on the lakebed. The underwater scene is clear, well-defined, colorful, and varied. The fantastic sight of 'fish swimming in the sky, birds flying under water' makes people drunk with joy. By the lake, a thick vine tightly wraps around a giant tree, reaching the same height, straight into the clouds. The tree gives the vine infinite warmth and shade, and the vine gives the tree beautiful and pure love. Thus, Mirror Lake is also called 'Love Park.'
Through Mirror Lake, you reach Nuorilang Waterfall. 'You carry the load, I lead the horse, and we cross the river together...' Do you know which role you want to play? The opening scene of Journey to the West was filmed here. 'Nuorilang' means 'male god' in Tibetan, implying majesty and grandeur. Therefore, Nuorilang Waterfall means a magnificent waterfall. Torrential water flows from Nuorilang Lakes down from the top of the waterfall, like the Milky Way falling, with a sound that shakes the valley. The southern end has a vast water force, chilling and creating mist. In the morning sun, rainbows often hang across the valley, making the waterfall even more charming. In autumn, the 300-meter waterfall, set against autumn colors and clouds, creates a magnificent picture.
Finally, we come to another major waterfall in Jiuzhaigou—Shuzheng Waterfall. The snow-like spray of the waterfall contrasts with the rugged old trees—one moving, one still—but together they form a harmonious natural picture. Someone described the magical beauty of Shuzheng Waterfall: 'The curved trunks of the ancient trees with lush leaves are half immersed in the waterfall, letting the white water wash over them, like fairies with flowing hair and bare bodies bathing and playing in the holy water.' Nature's wonders sometimes make you feel like you're in the Garden of Eden!
Day 4 (Oct 10, 2015): Huanglong Day Tour
At 7:00 AM, I met at Menghuan Jiuzhai Parking Lot and took the Jiantu Westbound bus to the Huanglong cable car entrance. Round-trip ticket cost 80 yuan/person, about 2.5 hours by bus. On the way, we stopped at a high-altitude reaction explanation station to learn about altitude sickness and buy medicine, but it wasn't mandatory. The sightseeing time was about 6 hours. Alternatively, the Jiuzhaigou bus station also sells tickets to Huanglong for 90 yuan/person, with only two departures at 7:00 and 7:30, and you need to confirm the return time at Huanglong.
The Huanglong Scenic and Historic Interest Area is known for its many colorful pools that change colors with the surrounding scenery and sunlight, earning it the title 'Fairyland on Earth'. The main scenic area, Huanglong Gully, resembles the image of a 'dragon' in Chinese minds, so it has always been called 'Earthly Paradise' and 'Chinese Symbol'. It is revered by local people of various ethnicities. Tibetans call it 'Dongri·Serjun', meaning 'Eastern Conch Mountain (referring to Xuebao Mountain)' and 'Golden Lakes (referring to Huanglong Gully)'.
Day 5 (Oct 11, 2015): Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu
At 7:00 AM, I took the Jiantu Westbound bus from Menghuan Jiuzhai Parking Lot, returning to Chengdu via Mao County. One-way ticket cost 120 yuan/person, about 8 hours. The bus dropped off at Chadianzi station in Chengdu.
Due to weather, I wasn't entirely satisfied with this Jiuzhai-Huanglong trip. But in life's journey, how can everything go smoothly? Whether reading thousands of books, traveling thousands of miles, or meeting countless people, we continuously improve ourselves through change and understanding, ultimately reaching the highest state of 'form is emptiness, emptiness is form'. Emptiness does not mean nothingness; it means understanding impermanence and not clinging to things—like the moon in water, flowers in a mirror—a manifestation of great wisdom. As the Sutra of Impermanence says: 'Worldly matters have no form; form arises from the mind. Visible things are not real things; perceivable events are not real events. Things and events are empty; they are mental obstacles. For an ordinary person, everywhere is a prison; only by transforming the world can one achieve selflessness. I am the world; the world is me.'
Notes and Suggestions:
1. Waterproof jacket and pants, waterproof hiking boots are essential. In light rain, you don't need an umbrella or raincoat.
2. Start taking medication for altitude sickness two weeks in advance. Drink plenty of water and rest when in high altitude areas.
3. Book tickets online whenever possible to avoid carrying too much cash. Jiuzhaigou ticket + eco-bus: 310 yuan/person. Online pickup is convenient. Huanglong ticket + uphill cable car: 280 yuan/person. Recommended to take uphill cable car to save time. I spent a lot of time taking photos, so 6 hours was a bit rushed.
4. If hiking, pack light and carry high-energy food like chocolate, Snickers, beef jerky, etc. Small spots inside Jiuzhaigou often sell self-heating lunch boxes for 25 yuan each. If you see them around meal time, buy one for energy. Don't eat the set meal at Nuorilang Center—it's not worth the price. If you want good food, wait until you return to Chengdu. Huanglong has a Dujuanlin Service Station with decent food at reasonable prices. Usually, you can arrive around 1:30 PM. Options include barley cake + fried rice + home-style eggs = instant noodles.
5. The advantage of entering the scenic area twice is having ample time for sightseeing and photography at each spot. Of course, if you take the bus all the way and get up early, it's possible to see everything in one day. Inside Jiuzhaigou, you can also charter a car for staggered visiting for an additional 210 yuan/person. Strongly recommended if you just want a quick visit.
6. The prices at restaurants outside Jiuzhaigou are roughly similar; the difference is in snacks and wontons. Ordinary grilled fish costs 68 yuan or 88 yuan each. Don't listen if they say they'll throw in a few dishes—those dishes are just side dishes that come with the grilled fish. Average cost per person is about 50 yuan. For one person, I suggest egg fried rice + sautéed wild vegetables or grilled fish.
7. Taxis or unlicensed cabs in the scenic area charge 10–40 yuan, negotiable.
8. The Mao County section is prone to landslides. If traveling by bus, be prepared. I encountered a small landslide on the way back, which took at least 6 hours to clear. If you're stuck on a stretch without restaurants, you'll have to go hungry, and it might affect your subsequent itinerary.
9. I am lazy; I entered the valley after 9:00 AM each day and left around 7:00 PM. I did a lot of hiking, so the pace was still a bit rushed!
10. Some plank paths from Long Lake to Nuorilang are damaged. Please be careful. This section is not recommended for plank path travel.
11. Keep a good attitude. The scenery you see may not be what you imagined. Everything changes; only the mind remains unchanged.
12. Accommodation prices near the entrance are flexible. Sometimes booking in advance online is more expensive. I suggest booking online if it's cheaper. I booked a standard room for 133 yuan/night. Most hotels offer pickup service—please check with your hotel. Some hotels do not provide disposable toiletries!
