A 5-Day Trip to Western Sichuan: Travel Notes

I've wanted to explore Jiuzhaigou for a long time!

As a foodie who can't eat spicy food, Chengdu wasn't my first choice, but it has always been a place I yearned for. From October to December, every time I planned a spontaneous trip, something unexpected would come up. Fortunately, I finally made it in December.

Travel gear: 2 phones, 1 compact camera

Clothing: 1 down jacket, a windbreaker, hiking shoes, gloves, hat

Essential items: toiletries, slippers, motion sickness medicine, Yunnan Baiyao (herbal remedy), insulated water bottle, band-aids, power bank, selfie stick, chargers, cash (people in Jiuzhaigou and Chengdu really don't like swiping cards, so bring plenty of cash), etc.

[Day 1] Capital Airport – Chengdu Shuangliu Airport

On the bus we decisively bought tickets for the return trip from Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu, from Chengdu to Dujiangyan and Mount Qingcheng, and from Chengdu to the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, saving us a lot of time. The journey from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou was long, from 7:00 to 17:00. In a drowsy state I could still glimpse the beautiful scenery along the way: Wenchuan, Maoxian, Diexi Haizi, and Songpan Ancient Town.

Around 18:00 we arrived at Jiuzhaigou. The sudden white landscape made me incredibly happy. According to the local Tibetan people, catching a snowfall like this is not easy. That night we stayed at a hotel near the entrance of Jiuzhaigou. The environment was average, probably because it was the low season, so the prices were quite cheap, suitable for budget travelers. It was a 10-minute walk to the Jiuzhaigou entrance, very convenient. Since we checked in and unpacked quite late, many shops were already closed. We ate at a small place right by the entrance. So in the low season, you need to have dinner early in Jiuzhaigou.

[Day 2] & [Day 3] Roaming Jiuzhaigou

We booked a 2-day itinerary for Jiuzhaigou. In the low season, the ticket was 80 RMB, the bus fare was 80 RMB, insurance 10 RMB, the second day re-entry fee was 20 RMB, and the second day bus fare was 80 RMB, totaling 270 RMB. Fewer people, beautiful scenery, and no rush to finish the itinerary – very cost-effective.

*For entering the valley on the second day, you need to inform the ticket office when purchasing the first day's ticket, and you must have your photo taken at the entrance!

Itinerary Day 1: Rize Valley (Arrow Bamboo Lake – Panda Lake – Five Flower Lake – Pearl Shoal – Pearl Shoal Waterfall – Mirror Lake – Nuorilang Waterfall) – Nuorilang Center – Zechawa Valley (Long Lake – Five Flower Lake) – Nuorilang Center – Return

Itinerary Day 2: Hiking Shuzheng Valley (Rhinoceros Lake – Tiger Lake – Shuzheng Lakes – Shuzheng Waterfall – Wolong Lake – Spark Lake – Reed Lake – Bonsai Shoal)

Without further ado, the snowy scenery:

On the second day the weather cleared up, and the contrast of light and colors immediately appeared. I impulsively ran back to Arrow Bamboo Lake, Panda Lake, and Five Flower Lake to take some photos. Hiking through Shuzheng Valley was also extremely enjoyable. We started strolling down from noon, with very few people around, and it was quite pleasant to enjoy the beautiful scenery while eating.

*Lunch at the Nuorilang Visitor Center is relatively expensive. It is recommended to bring your own lunch.

Foodie recommendations: Highland barley cake, yak meat, potato glutinous rice cake, cheese

Foodie summary: Not necessarily super delicious, just the pursuit of trying new things.

[Day 4] Jiuzhaigou – Chengdu

Although the two days in Jiuzhaigou were quite relaxing, we (who rarely exercise) still felt tired. We slept all the way on the bus and arrived at Chengdu Chadianzi Bus Station at 17:00, fully recharged.

Accommodation: Kuanzhai Alley – Wren Boutique Hotel (rather luxurious)

The moment you step inside, this Chengdu homestay really catches your eye. It's fantastic! Located right in the Kuanzhai Alley scenic area, you can step out and shop and eat, very convenient. It's also not far from Chunxi Road, Taikoo Li, Tianfu Square, etc. You can take the subway or a taxi. If you take a taxi, it costs about 10 RMB.

The overall style of this homestay is exactly to my liking. The guest room design leans Japanese, made entirely of solid wood, and the room has a unique fragrance that is very soothing. There are also handmade Shu embroidery and a wren bird painting specially painted by a master artist.

The hotel has many calligraphy, paintings, and antiques that the owner worked hard to find. Every detail is thoughtfully curated – impeccable.

The room has a dedicated dining area, and the lunch and dinner tasted very good.

When I go out, whether staying in a hotel or homestay, the bathroom is always my biggest concern. Its cleanliness can definitely influence my mood. I give the Wren's bathroom full marks.

Lying down was so comfortable that I fell asleep in minutes. The quilt and mattress were soft and skin-friendly. I like sleeping on buckwheat pillows, and the hotel thoughtfully provided one for me.

That evening, the two of us headed straight to Wenshu Monastery. My friend, who can't live without spicy food, went straight to Zhang Liangfen and ordered the famous yellow liangfen and sweet water noodles. But surprisingly, they weren't very spicy, a bit sweet, which left my friend feeling a bit disappointed. We then went to Long Chao Shou and ordered a snack set. The taste was average, except for the dandan noodles which impressed my friend – the rest were quite ordinary.

Foodie recommendations: Zhang Liangfen, Dandan noodles, Wuxiang (five-spice) oil tea

[Day 5] Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, People's Park, Wuhou Shrine, Jinli, Kuanzhai Alley

At the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, you must go in the morning. Pandas come out to sunbathe and play in the morning; they are very cute, especially the 1-year-olds. With the keepers' help, they were climbing trees and running around, turning our planned 2-hour visit into a full 4 hours.

After leaving the base, it was past noon. We headed straight to Lao Ma Zhuti (Old Lady's Pig Trotters) near People's Park and ordered pig trotters, Kung Pao Chicken, and Husband and Wife Lung Slices (a classic Sichuan cold dish). Then we started eating and complaining at the same time. Comments: the pig trotters were a bit greasy for us northerners. There was a layer of oil on top, and after two sips of the soup, we gave up. The Husband and Wife Lung Slices were not bad – my friend finished a large plate. The Kung Pao Chicken was not spicy at all, quite different from the northern version, with bamboo shoot pieces as a substitute, slightly sweet – I (who can't eat spicy) ate most of it.

After eating and drinking to our hearts' content, we took a short stroll in People's Park, experiencing Chengdu people's slow-paced life.

After a leisurely time, we went straight to Wuhou Shrine and Jinli. Since we are two true foodies with little interest in the Three Kingdoms culture, we didn't enter Wuhou Shrine; we just had a big feast at Jinli. Jinli is truly a gathering of Chengdu snacks – so many varieties that it's overwhelming. We decisively decided to have dinner there. Food recommendations: Li Changqing's San Da Pao (three big cannons – a glutinous rice dessert), cold rice cake, beef crisp cake, Zhangfei beef, egg noodles cake. After strolling around, it wasn't too late, so the two of us wandered over to Chunxi Road to soak up the commercial street atmosphere. There we discovered that Sichuan really produces beautiful women – we were full of envy and jealousy.

[Day 6] Mount Qingcheng, Dujiangyan

We originally wanted to go to Mount Emei, but due to weather and physical reasons, we didn't make it. Instead, we chose the closer Mount Qingcheng and Dujiangyan. The ticket for each was 90 RMB. How to evaluate it? Very average, not worth the nearly 100 RMB price tag. Maybe we're used to the 40 RMB ticket price for the Forbidden City in Beijing.

Dujiangyan: Very famous. The route is simple: Mount Yulei – Qin Yan Lou (Qin Tower) – Erwang Temple – Anlan Rope Bridge. Although it's of great significance, this park is really small. We finished in a leisurely 2 hours, including lunch at the nearby Luodai Ancient Town. We arrived at 9:00 and by a little after 11:00 were already waiting for the bus to Mount Qingcheng.

Mount Qingcheng: We chose to take the cable car, so it turned out to be just a mountain that we passed through quickly. We were both looking forward to the evening's Yulin Chuan Chuan Xiang (a type of hotpot skewers).

Since the bus stopped at Kuanzhai Alley, we took a stroll there. There weren't many people. It's a typical post-development commercial street. At the Panda Post Office we bought a few interesting postcards and small panda pendants. Recommend the Alley Yogurt – it was pretty good, and the only food we bought in Kuanzhai Alley.

Then came the highlight of the evening: Yulin Chuan Chuan Xiang. This is a must-recommend. Great flavor. Very cheap. Although Beijing also has it, the price and taste are far worse. The two of us ate until we were stuffed for less than 100 RMB, and it left a lasting aftertaste.

[Day 7] Du Fu Thatched Cottage, Huanhuaxi Park, Sichuan Museum, Qingyang Palace

On our last day in Chengdu, it was drizzling outside. We slowly strolled to Du Fu Thatched Cottage, Huanhuaxi Park, and the Sichuan Museum. These places are close together, so a leisurely walk doesn't take much time. Du Fu Thatched Cottage is small, right next to Huanhuaxi Park. If you have plenty of time, it's more recommended to slowly savor Chengdu's slow life in Huanhuaxi Park. The Sichuan Museum is small, only three floors. No reservation needed; you can enter directly with your ID card. There aren't many exhibits, but quite a lot of visitors. We saw many elderly people and children carefully studying the exhibits. On the way back, we passed Qingyang Palace. Since we still had time, we took a quick look. The entrance fee was 20 RMB. If you're interested and have time, you can visit.

Not shopping in Chengdu is impossible. Our last stop was Wenshu Monastery. For our final meal, we chose Chengdu snacks and Zhong Shui Jiao (Zhong's dumplings): dandan noodles, Ye Er Ba (a sticky rice cake wrapped in leaves), brown sugar helmet, tangyuan (sugar-coated fried dough balls), and bang bang chicken. After eating to our hearts' content, we headed straight to the Palace Pastry Shop, which a friend had recommended. There was a long line. Highly recommend the pepper-salt small peach crisps – the Sichuan pepper flavor is very strong, a bit unacceptable at first, but the more you eat, the more you like it. It's quite oily, so dieters beware. The honey bean cake and mung bean cake were also good. When I brought them home, my mom loved them. Of course, Hongqi Supermarket and Carrefour were also must-visits. Since I can't eat spicy food, I only bought Zhangfei beef. My friend bought Sichuan pepper, red oil hotpot base, and Pixian bean paste, among other things. Hongqi Supermarket and Carrefour have everything. There's also a market in the city center where my friend bought local green Sichuan pepper – the aroma was very strong, and the price was cheaper than in supermarkets. Recommended. Satisfied, we headed back with loads of bags!