Capturing the Picturesque Beauty of Jiuzhaigou Like a Scroll Painting
Jiuzhaigou is located in Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, and is known as a 'fairy tale world, paradise on earth'. From photos in various magazines, it's clear that golden autumn is the best time to visit Jiuzhaigou. The colors are rich and splendid, with colorful forests and snow-capped peaks complementing each other. The boardwalk winds through a romantic landscape, waterfalls burst with passion, and the lakes are dazzling and bizarre. Everyone who comes to Jiuzhaigou is enraptured by the autumnal beauty, like a gorgeously dressed maiden. Worries and homesickness drift away unnoticed, replaced by a sense of inner peace.
I arrived in Chengdu from Shanghai ahead of time and spent a day resting there. Since airfare from Shanghai to Chengdu was expensive during Golden Week and discount flights had inconvenient schedules, I chose to take the D2206 bullet train, departing at 06:39, with a journey of about 15 hours, ticket price 606 yuan. The train starts at Hongqiao Railway Station and ends at Chengdu East Station. Bringing a book along makes the trip not boring. There are no direct flights from Shanghai to Huanglong; all require a transfer, so spending time in Chengdu for sightseeing or rest is a good choice. I stayed at the Jiaoliao Renwen Boutique Hotel in Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right in the alley, surrounded by numerous snacks. Just outside the hotel, you can eat grilled skewers, pig trotters, wontons in red oil, and various noodle dishes with toppings. On Hongwasi Street, notable shops are Huaxi Beef Rice Noodles and Zizhong Rabbit Noodles. Near the small north gate of Sichuan University, you can find ice jelly (three-flavor version without glutinous rice balls), guokui (pork filling), and egg-filled Chinese crepes (mixed flavors). Near Gonghe Village, in the ground floor of a commercial building, there are Laoma Wontons (order the extra spicy version), boboji (skewers), and Li Hua Dumplings. Near Jiuyan Bridge is a bar street, great for nightlife enthusiasts; for late-night snacks, try Zishi Grilled Fish. Also, go to the new city plaza on West Street to eat Tan Tofu Pudding and Jiang Pig Trotters, and don't forget to order Sweet Noodles and Zhong Dumplings. The flavor is fantastic. Don't ask me why you must go there—just go! As for attractions in Chengdu: the Jinsha Site and Sanxingdui Site are must-sees. Wuhou Shrine is standard; Du Fu Thatched Cottage is not good value for money; the Sichuan Museum really doesn't have many worthwhile collections. Jinli and Kuanzhai Alley have a strong commercial atmosphere—just my personal opinion for reference.
"Jiao Liao"—at first glance, I really didn't know how to pronounce these two characters. Seeing a nearby introduction, it seemed to be a hotel, and since I hadn't settled on accommodation, I decided to take a look inside. When the gate opened, the long corridor in front deeply captivated my gaze.
"A winding path leads to a secluded spot, a meditation room surrounded by deep flowers and trees. Mountain light delights the birds, and the shadow of the pool empties the heart." Though not a meditation room, it was even better. Although there were no high mountains or ponds, there were flowers, trees, water, and birds, creating a very poetic atmosphere.
After entering and experiencing everything about Jiaoliao, I decided on the spot to stay here. After settling in, I encountered even more surprises. It truly felt like a secluded retreat hidden within a bustling city.
This hotel is not large, with only ten rooms. But each room is nearly 100 square meters, and the entire hotel offers excellent privacy. There is attentive butler service that can arrange all matters, big and small. One unique feature is a small window called the 'butler service window'. For inconvenient moments, small items like takeout or room supplies can be placed inside, ensuring complete privacy. It feels like home, without worrying about outside noise, allowing you to enjoy your own space peacefully.
Service is one aspect, but the hotel's hardware facilities are also very good. The decoration and layout of each room give a very comfortable feeling, with a classic Chinese cultural style that I really like.
Later, the butler told me that the hotel is centered on Zhuangzi's philosophy. Everywhere in the hotel reflects the culture of Zhuangzi, with many antiques and old items, creating a rich cultural atmosphere.
Although I only stayed for one short day, I deeply felt the charm of Jiaoliao: small yet refined, carefree and comfortable. The environment, atmosphere, service, and all aspects left a deep impression. If I come to Chengdu again, I will surely come back to experience the charm of Jiaoliao once more.
Day 1 (2015.10.07): Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou Entrance
At 7 a.m., gather at the south gate of Baihuatan Park in Chengdu and take the Jiantu Westbound Bus to Jiuzhaigou Entrance. One-way ticket price: 110 yuan per person. Bookable on Ctrip. Travel time is about 10 hours. The drop-off point is Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot, about 5 km from the scenic area entrance. Due to a landslide in Mao County, the bus detoured via Mianyang, adding an extra fare of 60 yuan per person. Alternatively, you can take a long-distance bus from Chadianzi or Xinnanmen Bus Station, with a ticket price of 141 yuan per person. Xinnanmen has more departures but tickets are only available 7 days in advance. Lunch (group meal) cost 25 yuan per person.
Day 2 (2015.10.08): Jiuzhaigou – Zechawa Gully Changhai Section
Jiuzhaigou gets its name from nine Tibetan villages including Shuzheng, Heye, and Zechawa. The developed scenic area is shaped like a 'Y', and sightseeing combines walking and bus rides. The area implements a staggered visiting schedule, so when you board the eco-friendly bus, you don't know which attraction you'll go to first, which might disrupt your plans.
"After visiting the Five Sacred Mountains, no other mountains impress; after visiting Huangshan, no other mountains compare; Guilin's landscape is unrivaled, but Jiuzhaigou's scenery surpasses Guilin." People come to Jiuzhaigou to see the water. Jiuzhaigou is beautiful, spiritual, and divine because of its water; water is the soul of Jiuzhaigou, a lively spirit. The water of Jiuzhaigou is holy and elegant, mysterious and misty, light and ethereal, colorful, passionate, and peaceful. The 'Six Wonders'—emerald lakes, layered waterfalls, colorful forests, snow peaks, Tibetan customs, and blue ice—leave the world this most precious treasure.
After entering the scenic area, I took the eco-bus and made a brief stop at Shuzheng Qunhai before heading straight to Changhai. Changhai is the highest and widest lake in Jiuzhaigou, with a dark blue surface. Its water comes from melting snow on high mountains. Strangely, the lake is over a hundred meters deep and takes an S-shape. Surrounding forests are lush green, and the peaks are snow-covered year-round. Changhai has no outlet; even during the rainy summer, the water does not overflow, and during winter and summer droughts, it never dries up, earning it the nickname 'magic gourd that can never be filled or emptied.' Legend says strange creatures sometimes appear in Changhai; some people in the 1980s claimed to have seen giant aquatic animals. Oddly, no fish live in this vast lake. These mysterious tales add more intrigue to Changhai in winter.
Descending along the wooden boardwalk for about 1 km, you reach Five-Color Pond. This is the essence of Jiuzhaigou's lakes. Its upper half is turquoise, the lower half orange-red, the left side sky blue, and the right side olive green. The lake grows communities of aquatic plants like Spirogyra, stoneworts, and small ferns, as well as reeds, horsetails, and rushes. These contain varying levels of chlorophyll, and in the calcium-rich lake water, they display different colors. In the same lake, some areas are deep blue, some shallow green, some brownish yellow, some pink-blue... ever-changing and stunning. In winter, when everything around is frozen, this colorful little pond does not freeze, which is truly miraculous. Legend says the Five-Color Pond is where the goddess Semo used to comb her hair. The god Dago fetched water for her every day from Changhai. Over time, Dago's feet carved 189 steps into the cliff. The rouge that washed off Semo's face turned into this stunning pond. Lovers believe that if they go down the steps to the pond, silently make a wish, and climb back up the 189 steps, they will love each other forever.
Now for today's highlight. After visiting Five-Color Pond, you have three choices: 1) take the bus from Five-Color Pond Station to other attractions; 2) walk along the road or boardwalk down to Upper Seasonal Lake, visit it, then return to Five-Color Pond station (round trip about 20 minutes one way); 3) hike back to Nuorilang Center. I chose the hiking route, taking photos while walking, which took about 4 hours. Seasonal Lake is a less popular attraction; you have to experience the scenery along the way yourself. After reaching Nuorilang Center, take the bus toward the exit and get off at Huohuohai Station. Then walk along the boardwalk toward Reed Sea. In the sea, reeds grow thickly, waterbirds fly, clear streams flow, and green waves sway, winding through, presenting a marshy landscape. In the middle of Reed Sea, there is a graceful water ribbon that winds through the reeds, dividing the sea into two halves. This ribbon has a jade-like luster and is called Jade Belt River. Legend says it was formed from the belt of the mountain goddess Wonuo Semo. On the cliff beside Reed Sea, due to weathering, a rock formation resembles the profile of the goddess.
Day 3 (2015.10.09): Jiuzhaigou – Rize Gully Primitive Forest Section
Sunlight, dew, pine forests, and birdsong create a beauty in the primitive forest distinct from Jiuzhaigou's waterscapes. The neatly aligned, towering pines and cypresses stand like solemn, mighty soldiers guarding this beautiful nature. The temperature in the primitive forest is about 3°C lower, so keep warm! Descending along the boardwalk, you pass Fragrant Grass Sea and Swan Sea.
Take the bus from Swan Sea to Arrow Bamboo Sea stop, and then you can walk all the way to Five-Flower Lake. Arrow bamboo is the favorite food of giant pandas. Arrow Bamboo Sea is named because arrow bamboo grows abundantly along its shores. The lake is wide and long, with turquoise water. Reflections are so clear that you can't tell whether the mountains have entered the water or the water has seeped into the mountains. In the lake, many dead trees have been calcified, forming peculiar coral-like structures. On these deadwood, new trees sometimes grow—a phenomenon called 'deadwood rejuvenation' or 'reborn trees.' On windless days, you can admire the reflections in Arrow Bamboo Sea, second only to Mirror Sea.
Panda Sea and Arrow Bamboo Sea are sister lakes. The rock textures on the lakeside are peculiar and reflect into the lake, complementing the spherical white stones underwater that naturally have several black rings resembling pandas. Remember not to take the bus from Panda Sea to Five-Flower Lake; be sure to walk along the road or boardwalk. At Tiger's Mouth, you will see the most beautiful Five-Flower Lake. Ah, I forgot and missed this view—what a pity!
Five-Flower Lake is the pride of Jiuzhaigou. In the same water area, it displays goose yellow, dark green, deep blue, indigo, and other colors, mottled and dazzling. The colors painted by nature are bold, intense, and ever-changing. Viewed from Tiger's Mouth, its full shape looks like a peacock with full plumage spreading its tail. When sunlight hits, the lake becomes even more blurred and radiant, a gorgeous and fantastic scene, entering a fairy tale world. The ever-changing brocade of the lake intoxicates and fascinates. Through the clear water, you can see springs bubbling up from the bottom, dizzying. As a mountain breeze blows, various colors interpenetrate, inlay, mingle, and soak, making Five-Flower Lake full of life, activity, and movement.
Take the bus to Pearl Shoal Waterfall. In a sense, it resembles Luositan Waterfall in the Huangguoshu Waterfall group. It is not entirely a vertical plunge over a cliff; instead, there is a shoal with an incline of about 20 degrees. The waterfall first flows gently over the shoal. The shoal is made of travertine, with scale-like tiny undulations. When a thin layer of water flows over the shoal, under sunlight, it looks like ten thousand pearls sparkling with silver light, hence the name 'Pearl Shoal'. The water flow is relatively slow and the shoal relatively flat, so visitors can take off their shoes and walk barefoot on the shoal. However, since the waterfall consists of melted snow from the mountains, the water temperature is low. Even in midsummer, walking on Pearl Shoal feels icy and makes you shiver.
Continuing down, you arrive at Mirror Sea, with steep valley slopes, dense forests, and a forest belt that changes color with seasons in rich layers. In early morning light or under the glow of dawn, the sea is as smooth as a mirror. Blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and nearby trees are all reflected on the bottom, creating clear, sharp, colorful, and varied underwater scenes. The surreal sight of 'fish swimming in the sky, birds flying underwater' enchants people. On the shore, a thick vine as wide as a bowl tightly clings to a giant tree, reaching the same height and soaring into the sky. The tree gives the vine endless gentle shade, and the vine gives the tree beautiful pure love. Thus, Mirror Sea is also called 'Love Park.'
Passing Mirror Sea, you reach Nuorilang Waterfall. 'You carry the load, and I lead the horse'—which character from Journey to the West do you want to play? The opening scene of the TV series was filmed here. Nuorilang is a Tibetan transliteration meaning 'male god', symbolizing tall and majestic. So Nuorilang Waterfall means a majestic, spectacular waterfall. Torrents of water come from Nuorilang Qunhai, pouring down from the top, like a Milky Way crashing down, with a sound that shakes the valley. The southern end has huge water volume, emitting chilly air and raising mist. Under the morning sun, rainbows often hang across the valley, making this waterfall even more charming. In autumn, the 300-meter cascade, set against autumn colors and clouds, becomes a spectacular scene.
Finally, you reach the other major waterfall of Jiuzhaigou—Shuzheng Waterfall. The waterfall with rolling waves and the ancient sturdy trees—one moving, one still—form a strong contrast yet combine into a harmonious natural picture. Some describe the wondrous beauty of Shuzheng Waterfall: the curved trunks of lush ancient trees half-submerged in the waterfall, letting the white spray wash over them, like fairies with flowing hair and bare jade bodies bathing and playing in the holy water. The magical scenery of nature sometimes makes you feel as if you are in the Garden of Eden!
Day 4 (2015.10.10): Huanglong Day Trip
At 7 a.m., take the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot to the Huanglong Cable Car Station. Round-trip ticket price: 80 yuan per person. Travel time is about 2.5 hours. En route, there will be a stop at an altitude sickness explanation station to educate about altitude sickness and sell medication, but it's not mandatory. Scenic area visit time is about 6 hours. Alternatively, the Jiuzhaigou Bus Station sells tickets to Huanglong: round trip 90 yuan per person, with only two departures at 7:00 and 7:30. The return departure time must be confirmed after arriving at Huanglong.
Huanglong Scenic Area is named for its many colorful ponds that change into multicolored hues with the varying scenery and sunlight angles, earning it the epithet 'Celestial Pond on Earth.' The main scenic area, Huanglong Gully, resembles the image of the 'dragon' in Chinese minds, so it has always been called 'Celestial Pond on Earth' and 'Symbol of China.' It is deeply revered by local ethnic groups; Tibetans call it 'Dongri Serjun,' meaning 'East Conch Mountain' (referring to Xuebao Mountain) and 'Golden Lake' (referring to Huanglong Gully).
Day 5 (2015.10.11): Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu
At 7 a.m., take the Jiantu Westbound Bus from Menghuan Jiuzhaigou Parking Lot back to Chengdu via Mao County. One-way ticket price: 120 yuan per person. Travel time is about 8 hours. Drop-off point: Chadianzi Station in Chengdu.
Because of the weather, I wasn't very satisfied with this trip to Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong. But in life's journey, how can everything go smoothly? Whether reading ten thousand books, traveling ten thousand miles, or meeting countless people, we continuously improve ourselves through change and insight, ultimately reaching the highest state where form is emptiness and emptiness is form. Emptiness is not nothingness; it means understanding impermanence and not clinging to things, like the moon in water or flowers in a mirror, a manifestation of great wisdom. As stated in the Sutra of Impermanence: 'All phenomena are without form; form arises from the mind. What is seen is actually not things; what is felt is actually not events. Things and events are all empty; they are actually mental obstructions. The mind of ordinary people is everywhere a prison. Only by transforming the world can one achieve selflessness. The self is the world; the world is the self.'
Notes and Recommendations:
1. Waterproof jacket and pants, and waterproof hiking boots are essential. In light rain, no need for an umbrella or raincoat.
2. Start taking medicine to prevent altitude sickness two weeks in advance. In high-altitude areas, drink plenty of water and rest well.
3. Book tickets through travel websites whenever possible to avoid carrying too much cash. Jiuzhaigou entrance fee + eco-bus: 310 yuan/person. Online ticket pickup is very convenient. Huanglong entrance fee + uphill cable car: 280 yuan/person. Uphill cable car is recommended to save time. Because I spent a lot of time taking photos, 6 hours felt a bit rushed.
4. For hiking, travel light, carrying only high-energy snacks like chocolate, Snickers, beef jerky. Small attractions in Jiuzhaigou usually sell self-heating boxed meals for 25 yuan each. When you see them at mealtime, definitely buy one to refuel. The set meal at Nuorilang Center is not recommended for good value; wait until you return to Chengdu for better food. Huanglong has a Dujuanlin service station with decent food at reasonable prices. Normally you can reach it around 13:30; they have barley cakes, fried rice, native eggs, and instant noodles.
5. Entering the scenic area twice allows ample time for visiting and photographing each attraction. Of course, if you ride the bus all the way and are an early riser, with good planning it's possible to see all of Jiuzhaigou in one day. Inside Jiuzhaigou, you can also hire a private car to avoid crowds, for an additional 210 yuan per person. Strongly recommended for those who just want a quick visit.
6. Restaurant prices outside Jiuzhaigou scenic area are roughly the same; the difference is in snacks like wontons, some expensive, some cheap. Ordinary grilled fish is 68 yuan or 88 yuan per fish. Don't listen if they say they'll give you a few side dishes—those are already the accompanying vegetables in the grilled fish. Average cost per person is about 50 yuan. For solo dining, I suggest egg fried rice + stir-fried wild vegetables or grilled fish.
7. Taxis or unlicensed cabs inside the scenic area are all negotiable, ranging from 10 to 40 yuan.
8. The Mao County section is prone to landslides. If traveling by road, be prepared. I encountered a small landslide on the way back, which took at least 6 hours to clear. If you get stuck at a section with no restaurants, you may go hungry, and it could affect your subsequent itinerary.
9. I'm lazy; I entered the scenic area after 9 a.m. every day and exited around 7 p.m. I did a lot of walking, so the itinerary was still a bit rushed.
10. Some boardwalk sections between Changhai and Nuorilang in Jiuzhaigou are damaged. Please be careful. It is not recommended to walk on that section.
11. Keep a good attitude. The scenery you see may not be what you imagined. Everything changes; only your mind remains unchanged.
12. Accommodation prices near the entrance are flexible. Sometimes online advance booking is more expensive. If you find a cheap price online, book it. I booked a standard room at 133 yuan per night. Most hotels offer pickup service; please consult your hotel for details. Some hotels do not provide disposable toiletries!
