Journey to the West Chapter 6: Huanglong's Dry Pools and Startling Snow, Jiuzhaigou's Unparalleled Beauty
All photos in this article were taken by the author of 'Black and White Touch'. Copyright reserved. No unauthorized use permitted!
After touring Xiahe, we drove 300 kilometers south to Zoige, entering Sichuan's Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture from Gannan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Gansu. The next day, we were set to explore China's most beautiful waterscapes: Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou.
(Scenery along the way from Zoige to Songpan, known as 'Xieshan Xie')
Before setting off, let's first learn some knowledge about Tibetan areas.
Tibetan areas are regions where Tibetans live. Besides Tibet, many Tibetan compatriots also reside in Yunnan, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Gansu, concentrated in their respective autonomous prefectures. Together with Tibet, all Tibetan areas can be divided into three major regions: U-Tsang, Kham, and Amdo. U-Tsang (due to cang) refers to the current Tibet region, with 'U' and 'Tsang' denoting front and rear Tibet respectively. Front Tibet, formerly called 'Ü-Tsang', includes present-day Lhasa, Shannan, etc., while rear Tibet is today's Shigatse region. Including Ngari, U-Tsang is the political, economic, and cultural center of the entire Tibetan area, known as the 'Dharma Realm'. Kham spans Tibet's Qamdo, Sichuan's Garze Prefecture, Qinghai's Yushu Prefecture, and Yunnan's Diqing Prefecture. Kham boasts beautiful landscapes and outstanding people, giving rise to rugged Khampa men and graceful Danba beauties, thus called the 'Human Realm'. Amdo covers other Tibetan areas in Qinghai except Yushu, as well as Gannan Prefecture in Gansu and parts of Aba Prefecture in Sichuan. Because this region is close to Xinjiang and Inner Mongolia and heavily influenced by northern nomadic peoples, it is also called the 'Horse Realm'.
After Buddhism was introduced to Tibet, it was suppressed by the indigenous Bon religion. Later, with the support of the Tibetan leader (Tsanpo) Trisong Detsen, Buddhism triumphed in debates and magical contests against Bon, causing Bon followers to flee the dharma realm of U-Tsang and scatter. Some of them came to Huanglong and Jiuzhaigou in the Amdo region, which is why these areas still preserve the original and pure Yungdrung Bon faith.
Although Tibetan Buddhism and Bon were once irreconcilable, they inevitably blended through conflict. Today, many mantras, rituals, and deity images in Tibetan Buddhism are inherited from Yungdrung Bon, and without expertise, it is not easy to distinguish the two. The image below shows a white stupa and secret script outside Jiuzhaigou's Folk Culture Street. Do they belong to Tibetan Buddhism or Bon?
Details of Tibetan history and the disputes between Buddhism and Bon will be elaborated when we reach the Tibetan Cultural Museum in Xining, Qinghai. For now, the main task is to see water. First, we visit Huanglong to admire the 'Earthly Celestial Pond'.
About 160 kilometers southeast of Zoige lies Songpan County in Aba Prefecture. Continuing along the rugged Minshan mountain roads, through tunnels and forests, at the foot of the main peak Xuebaoding, we finally see the entrance to Huanglong Scenic Area.
Huanglong is hailed as 'a fairyland on earth' and 'earthly celestial pond'. Its highlights are thousands of travertine pools, travertine streams, and stalactite caves, forming the world's largest and most uniquely shaped karst landscape.
Why is it called 'Huanglong' (Yellow Dragon)?
Huanglong is a giant gully flanked by Minshan peaks, about 7.5 kilometers long and 2.5 kilometers wide. Viewed from above, it resembles a yellow dragon winding through green mountains and valleys. Deep in the green valley stands Huanglong Temple, which enshrines the Yellow Dragon who once helped Yu the Great by carrying boats and guiding rivers during flood control. Legend has it that after Yu succeeded, the Yellow Dragon abandoned its dragon palace and willingly stayed in the mortal world to beautify the earth, creating this paradise—hence the name Huanglong.
(Huanglong Ancient Temple)
This day was April 29, more than a month before the peak season for Huanglong tourism, so ticket prices were less than half of the peak season. I thought I had found a bargain, but upon entering, I discovered that 90% of the waterscapes were invisible. Apart from the Five-Color Pond at the summit, the Welcome Pond, Flying Waterfall Flowing Radiance, Lotus Terrace Waterfall, Bathing Cave Waterfall, Golden Sand Spread on the Ground, Bonsai Ponds, Mirror Reflecting Pond, Suoluo Reflecting Pond, and Contending Beauty Ponds were almost all dry. I was so disappointed that I almost turned back halfway, nearly missing the only somewhat interesting Five-Color Pond.
Therefore, I won't show all the attractions of Huanglong one by one—just pick a few passable ones to post here.
The image below shows the Welcome Pond, the first scene after entering the scenic area. Over 300 intricately structured and uniquely shaped colored pools spread on both sides of the boardwalk. During the high-water season, babbling water flows between the terraced tiers of pools, playing a cheerful welcome melody. Now, only a few pools at higher elevations hold calm shallow water.
The image below shows the Bathing Cave. On a travertine collapse wall 10 meters high and 40 meters wide, there is a cave 1 meter high and 1.5 meters wide, named Bathing Cave, said to be where immortals purified themselves for cultivation. In peak season, surging water cascades down the travertine wall, creating a splendid golden waterfall—now it's a frozen 'waterfall' of ice and snow.
The image below shows the Bonsai Ponds, consisting of over 330 variously shaped pools. The sizes and heights of the pool embankments vary with the roots of trees and terrain changes. Embankments link pools, and beside and within them, wood, stone, flowers, and plants present myriad postures, like natural bonsai.
The image below shows the Mirror Reflecting Pond, with 180 pools. The pool surfaces are as smooth as mirrors, the water clear and azure. Clouds, snow peaks, and dense forests reflected in the pools are so clear that reality and reflection are hard to distinguish.
The image below shows the Contending Beauty Ponds, composed of 658 pools, the second largest group of colored pools in Huanglong Valley. The water depths vary, and the vegetation on the embankments differs. If you come in autumn, you'll see gold, emerald, wine red, bright orange... a riot of colors competing. But in the current season, well, let's say you get what you pay for.
Just when I was feeling disheartened, the nearby Five-Color Pond came into view. The emerald 'terraced fields' lifted my spirits.
Though not truly multicolored and paler compared to promotional photos, I hadn't expected to see every pool full of water given the dry conditions along the way. Moreover, the color shifted from light blue near to light green far away, which made me content. High expectations often lead to disappointment; low expectations make satisfaction easy.
The Five-Color Pond is at an altitude of 3,576 meters, containing 693 travertine pools. It is the world's largest, most numerous, and highest-altitude exposed travertine pool group, inlaid like colorful pearls in verdant mountains, known as the 'Earthly Celestial Pond'. Behind the pond stands the towering main peak of Minshan, Xuebaoding, at 5,588 meters. Majestic snow mountains and serene beautiful pools truly create a fairyland on earth!
Strolling by the pools, countless colored pools of various sizes and shapes resemble watercolor palettes filled with pigments: blue-green, sea blue, light blue... They seem like jade scattered by immortals among the mountains, bizarre and fantastical, brilliantly unique. The Five-Color Pond is also known as the 'Eye of the Yellow Dragon'—truly captivating eyes that steal one's soul.
The varying colors are due to the 'travertine' mentioned earlier. Travertine is nothing mysterious; it's the substance deposited when calcium in carbonate rocks dissolves in water and precipitates—the same material as scale at the bottom of a household kettle. The travertine in the Five-Color Pond attaches to stalagmites on the pool bottom. When sunlight passes through the water and hits the bottom, the stalagmites act like uneven prisms, refracting sunlight into different colors. Combined with reflections from lush flowers and trees around the pools, the water appears even more magnificent.
Having finally seen such beauty, I slowly appreciated it from different angles along the elevated boardwalks around the pools. Soon it began to snow—flakes flying like salt and powder, covering the sky. Amid the jade-like snow, the mirrored ponds became even more charming.
Snow carved the world, mirrors reflected heaven and earth. The sudden snowfall added poetic charm to the picturesque scene: colored pools, ancient temple, small birds, withered branches all turned into romantic imagery...
On the way down the mountain, I hesitated whether to go to Jiuzhaigou. If it were as dry as Huanglong, I could skip it. After asking staff, I learned Jiuzhaigou doesn't have such problems. Indeed, the next day's Jiuzhaigou trip fully compensated for Huanglong's regret.
Now comes the highlight of this article. Please open your eyes wide—you're about to see the most beautiful waterscapes in China!
Jiuzhaigou is located about 120 kilometers northwest of Huanglong, in Zhangzha Town west of Jiuzhaigou County. Its name comes from nine Tibetan villages within the scenic area (Shuzheng, Zechawa, Heijiao, Heye, Panya, Yala, Jianpan, Rexi, Guodu). Tibetans have lived in these nine villages for generations, so 'Tibetan culture' is a unique feature of Jiuzhaigou tourism.
Inside the scenic area is Jiuzhaigou Folk Culture Village, with a dazzling array of Tibetan souvenirs and a distinctive Tibetan Buddhist pagoda at the entrance. In April, Jiuzhaigou's rapeseed flowers are in full bloom, and the solemn pagoda and bright yellow flowers complement each other delightfully.
Jiuzhaigou boasts 'six wonders': besides Tibetan culture, there are Emerald Seas, Layered Waterfalls, Colorful Forests, Snow Peaks, and Blue Ice. The scenery is spectacular and breathtaking. The area is also home to rare plants and animals like giant pandas, golden monkeys, and yew trees—truly a natural treasure.
Jiuzhaigou also has low and high seasons: November to March is the low season. But regardless of season, every season has its beauty: midsummer features serene lakes and green mountains, with silver waterfall curtains expressing the most unrestrained passion; golden autumn sees the forests fully colored, with fallen petals floating on shimmering lakes under a clear blue sky; deep winter freezes nature, with mountains and trees clad in silver, lakes clear as ice, and blue ice layers on lake surfaces changing wonderful water patterns with the temperature difference between sunrise and sunset.
Thus, in the low season, Jiuzhaigou offers the unique spectacle of blue ice, unseen in other seasons.
(Jiuzhaigou Blue Ice, image from internet)
I visited in mid-spring, when snow and ice were melting, flowers bright and trees green. We would see spring water reflecting mountain colors, beautiful unknown wildflowers by shores and under trees, silken layered waterfalls, emerald seas covering the mountains, and distant ethereal snow mountains...
Before entering the scenic area, the 'Water Drop' installation art in front of the visitor center and the wave-like structure in the hall were novel and refined—fitting advertisements for Jiuzhaigou's waterscapes.
Tourists waiting for the shuttle bus lined up from outside the hall to inside, shoulder to shoulder. Such crowding might last the whole morning. The bustling crowds testify to Jiuzhaigou's worldwide fame.
Despite the disappointment of the previous day, at this moment my expectations surged again, throwing all thoughts of adjusting mindset to the wind.
Even though I had seen sacred lakes in Tibet and beautiful lakes in Qinghai, I still felt Jiuzhaigou would amaze me. And when I finished my day's journey, I was not disappointed at all—truly the finest waterscape under heaven!
Jiuzhaigou is shaped like a 'Y': the vertical part is Shuzheng Gully, and the two upper branches are Rize Gully and Zechawa Gully. Due to an earthquake on August 8, 2017, the area's vegetation and tourism facilities suffered varying degrees of damage. Rize Gully, from the Five Flower Lake upward, is closed for restoration. Even after 'touch-ups', the scenery will be vastly different from before. So some sights wait for no one; once missed, you can only admire them in photos.
From the entrance, the bus first takes you to Five Flower Lake.
At an altitude of 2,462 meters, landslides and debris flows blocked glacial valleys, forming the barrier lake—Five Flower Lake. It is 450 meters long, 313 meters wide, and 9 meters deep. Viewed from a drone, its shape resembles a peacock spreading its tail.
Five Flower Lake is the most colorful lake in Jiuzhaigou. Standing in different spots, you see different water colors from near to far: goose yellow, emerald green, dark green, sky blue, deep blue, indigo... The hues intermingle like a giant ornament inlaid with countless gems, dazzling and luxurious.
Such rich colors arise because travertine, algae, aquatic plants, and fallen trees on the lake bottom reflect and refract light differently. Coupled with projections of blue sky, white clouds, green grass, and emerald forests onto the lake, a kaleidoscopic effect is created that changes color with each step.
Five Flower Lake is the first stop for most tourists and one of the most popular lakes. Many viewing platforms are crowded with tourists vying to take photos. Taking just scenery shots is easy, but if you want a picture with people, expect a long wait. On one large platform, several elderly ladies in Tibetan costumes danced to 'Bazhahei', becoming another attraction in the phones of passersby besides the green hills and clear waters.
In Five Flower Lake and other Jiuzhaigou lakes, fallen trees are common. On shore, the fallen trees are rotted, but those on the lake bottom are intact. How so?
Because the oxygen concentration and temperature at the bottom are both low, unsuitable for microbial growth. Moreover, the surface of submerged logs is isolated by travertine, so even if a few microbes exist, they cannot easily decompose them.
(Shore logs rot easily)
Not far from Five Flower Lake is another small barrier lake: Golden Bell Lake, only 160 meters long. It gets its name because its surface resembles a copper bell. Legend says Golden Bell Lake was formed by a pair of demon-subduing bells belonging to the mountain god Zhayizhaga. The lake water is azure, like a blue eye in the river valley, hidden deep in dense shade.
Water color also relates to clarity and depth, which together determine the blue-green color of a lake. When a lake reaches a certain depth, water of high clarity selectively absorbs long-wavelength visible light like red and reflects short-wavelength blue-green light. Deeper lakes appear bluer to the human eye. Golden Bell Lake is 26 meters deep, which is why it is so intensely blue.
One kilometer north of Five Flower Lake is Pearl Shoal.
Pearl Shoal is at an altitude of 2,450 meters, with a shoal width of 112.3 meters, making it the widest shoal in Jiuzhaigou. It is a large travertine deposition platform. In sunlight, turbulent water cascades down the uneven shoal surface, splashing countless water droplets like pearls, crystal clear and dazzling.
Here also lies the magnificent Pearl Shoal Waterfall, 270 meters wide and averaging 21 meters high. The waterfall plunges into the valley, creating a thunderous roar. The waterfall face is concave in a crescent shape, with multiple drops, rich in layers, somewhat resembling Guangxi's Detian Waterfall but more compact and exquisite.
(Close-up of the waterfall)
East of Pearl Shoal is an '8.8 Rock'. This is a boulder that fell from a height along the mountain during the aforementioned earthquake. It is 9.2 meters high and weighs 552 tons, destroying all vegetation along its path and forming a huge chute. Beside the rock, the aftermath of the disaster is still visible. Before nature, humans are truly small.
Continuing east, we arrive at Mirror Sea.
Mirror Sea is 1,155 meters long, 241 meters wide, and 31 meters deep, the third largest lake in Jiuzhaigou. It gets its name because its surface is as calm as a mirror. Gazing from the shore, the blue sky, white clouds, distant mountains, and green forests are all reflected on the lake bottom; the reflection surpasses the real scene.
East of Mirror Sea, at the Y-junction, is Nuorilang Waterfall, 270 meters wide and 24.5 meters high, one of the widest waterfalls in China. 'Nuorilang' means 'tall and majestic' in Tibetan. But in spring, the water volume is not abundant, so the waterfall does not display its most magnificent side.
Next, take a bus from Nuorilang Service Center to the deepest part of Zechawa Gully: Long Sea.
Long Sea is also a barrier lake, at an altitude of 4,350 meters and 90 meters deep. It is the highest, deepest, and largest lake in Jiuzhaigou. It has no outlet; apart from direct evaporation, water seeps through underground fissures to downstream lakes like Five Color Pond. It serves as Jiuzhaigou's regulating reservoir—not overflowing in rainy summer and autumn, not drying up in dry winter and spring. Locals call it an 'inexhaustible treasure gourd' and also the 'mother of Jiuzhaigou lakes'.
On the high viewing platform at Long Sea, you can see a giant cypress tree standing between sky and water. One side has horizontal branches, while the other is as straight as if cut by a knife—unusual morphology, unlike the elegant shape of other cypresses. This cypress is a hundred years old and is called 'One-Armed Old Man Cypress'. It seems to extend an arm welcoming visitors from afar, or like it is guarding the mountains and rivers behind it.
Not far north of Long Sea is Five Color Pond. Unlike Huanglong's vast Five-Color Pond, this one is only 100 meters long and 60 meters wide, the smallest lake in Jiuzhaigou. Influenced by sunlight, algae, and travertine, the water is colorful, earning it the nickname 'Eye of Jiuzhaigou'.
Finally, let's look at the lakes in Shuzheng Gully.
The highest lake in Shuzheng Gully is Rhinoceros Sea, at an altitude of 2,301 meters, 2 kilometers long and 225 meters wide, the second largest lake in Jiuzhaigou. Legend says an accomplished monk once rode a rhinoceros here, drank spring water by the lakeside, and cured a serious illness, so he left the rhinoceros there—hence the name. Rhinoceros Sea reflects the lush green forests on both sides, with emerald green water and distant snow mountains faintly visible—beautiful and open scenery.
Descending along the lake, you see a small wooden house built over water. Next to the house, prayer wheels turn continuously with the flow of water. How much merit has this rushing river accumulated!
This is Shuzheng Mill, a building that uses water power to grind grain. The rotating prayer wheels are the transmission device—an ancient wisdom of local adaptation in Jiuzhaigou.
Not far from Shuzheng Mill is Shuzheng Waterfall. It has a convex arc shape, 11 meters high and 62 meters wide, composed of many flying cascades linked end to end. Shrubs on the embankment stand proudly against the rapids, enduring water impact year after year, still graceful—a marvelous spectacle.
(The shrub community on the waterfall top is a natural wonder)
Continuing north, we come to Tiger Sea.
At first glance, it resembles the Rhinoceros Sea just seen—similar water color and surrounding scenery. It is called 'Tiger Sea' because in late autumn, colorful forests are reflected in the clear lake, mottled and dappled like tiger stripes.
(Overlooking Tiger Sea from above)
Right behind Tiger Sea is Shuzheng Cluster Lakes. Azure lakes of various sizes scatter among green vegetation. Walking along the lakeside boardwalk, they are blue mirrors reflecting green trees; viewed from the high road above, they are blue sapphires scattered on earth.
Among the cluster, one lake stands out in area and color: Crouching Dragon Sea.
At the bottom of Crouching Dragon Sea lies a milk-yellow travertine embankment, shaped like a dragon lying submerged in the water. When the lake is calm, the dragon sleeps at the bottom; when a breeze blows, ripples appear and the dragon's body seems to squirm; when the wind is strong, waves rise and the dragon awakens, shaking its head and tail; when the wind is fierce, the surface breaks and the dragon soars into the sky, vanishing without a trace.
Further north is Spark Sea. Its name comes from sunlight slanting on the lake, sparkling like sparks. After the 2017 earthquake, the outlet dam of Spark Sea collapsed, and the lake landscape disappeared. Later, the dam was repaired and cracks mended, restoring the Spark Sea we see today.
Nearby is Twin Dragon Sea Waterfall, originally hidden deep in the forest. After the earthquake, the hydrological environment changed, increasing water flow here, making the waterfall more spectacular and beautiful.
Further down, among lush reeds, a 'green silk ribbon' winds into the distance—this is Reed Sea.
Reed Sea is a swampy lake, a place for water birds to forage, breed, and inhabit. Due to its shape like a jade belt, it is also called 'Jade Belt River'.
Above, I've introduced the most famous lakes in Jiuzhaigou. But in fact, Jiuzhaigou's waterscapes are not limited to these named lakes. Everywhere streams flow, there are enchanting sights. It's like in the gourmet city of Chengdu: delicious food is not only on Huaxing Street and Jinli; even a random hole-in-the-wall on a street corner offers mouthwatering dishes.
There are gentle ripples where water and trees embrace:
There are winding streams leading to secluded places:
And there are wide waves gathering from many waterfalls:
Beyond the water, you might unexpectedly encounter a piece of deadwood resembling a kitten, crouching on a solitary boat in the rapids, looking back as if asking for help:
And also such huge mosquitoes—how could they grow so fat without abundant water!
This is the legendary Jiuzhaigou!
I have visited many 'water towns' that could be considered superlative: the richly colored sacred lakes of Tibet, Guizhou's exquisite Xiaoqikong and Daqikong, Yunnan's Erhai and Lugu with their mountains and waters, Xinjiang's Kanas—dubbed God's palette. If I had to rank waterscapes, although each has its merits and there's no standard for comparison, subjectively, my top choice is Jiuzhaigou. Moreover, I visited not in its most beautiful season. If it were late autumn, with layered forests of colors competing with multicolored waters, what a sight that would be!
(Autumnal Jiuzhaigou, image from internet)
Perhaps I should go again in autumn.
One's taste improves with accumulation. At first, just 'having been there' suffices; later, you want to go to the right place at the right time; still later, you need the right mood for the right place...
It seems a bit like reading, making friends, even life itself: initially a blank slate, then gaining experience and personality, no longer reading any book, making any friend, or being excited about everything. Later, you move beyond 'usefulness' and begin to value serendipity and comfort...
The road gets 'narrower', but actually becomes broader.
Books get 'thinner', but actually become thicker.
People become 'choosier', but actually become more discerning.
Next stop: Sanxingdui.
